Dragster frames........picture thread.

What really happened was that the technology changed. The early cars used regular type clutches with a lot of drivers controlling the clutch slip with their left foot. Despite that fact tire smoking was how they put the power to the ground with direct drive.
When Bruce Crower developed the slider clutch the tuners worked out how to keep the tires hooked up and the trick was to get as much power to the ground as soon as possible. Moving the motor up helped load the tires harder and reduced the chance of breaking them loose. When the two speed transmissions (and later reversers) were introduced the motors came up higher again as the torque multiplication was trying to break the tires loose once more. The reversers pushed the motor further out and by the end of the front motor era they were about level with the track surface. I have a 1969 Don Long car with the motor level in the frame.
Some current NT/F cars still have the motor close to the rear end--Dan Horan Sr's is 36" out- but some like Brett Harris have the motor way out (47").
It does not matter where the motor is or what angle it is at it still has to be lined up with the axis of the pinion shaft in the rear end. The early cars had the rear end dumped at the same angle as the motor. All the pro chassis builders use a line up bar that runs through the main bearing saddles and is attached to the front of the rear end to keep everything in line while the chassis is on the jig.

Roo

 

Here are a few pictures of the 1962 Kent Fuller 112'' wheelbase chassis for the Masters & Richter recreation. Kent provided front end parts from the original patterns he used back in 1962 and made the front axle.

 

Sweeeeeeeeet!

 

The motor angle is 5 degrees down and 24'' from the motorplate to the centerline of the rearaxle.

The Fixture Jig is 2 pcs, 4'' I-beam with a 5/16 center web,2 pieces 8 ft long, 1 x 2'' x 48''(F) and 30''(R) long rect bar for axle locaters, 3/8 x 6 x 24''(F) and 3/8 x 24 x 30''(R) plates for front and rear chassis support.

You could clamp this altogther, but I bolted it altogther with 3/8-16 Nuts and Bolts. I made clamping plates to bolt together the two lengths of I-beam out of 1/4 plate, 5 bolts on each side and the full width of the center beam. The long edges of the clamping plates are radius to match the inside center beam to keep the 2 piece in alignment.

The vertical axle locaters are made from 1/4 x 2.00 x 9.000 and 1/4 x 4 x 16 Rect Bar. 1/8 x 1 3/4 Steel Angle 2'' long are used to attach the vertical plates.

All the materials are 6061-T6 Aluminum except as noted, The 4'' I-beam bottom is ground level starting point. With the chassis supporting all the added weight you will be surprised what you end up with. My Woody Fueler has 2 3/4'' ground clearence at 1200 pounds.

 

Are there building sheets for the body of a fed?
And what`s normal for height of the front axle (5 or 6 inch dropped?)

 

Depending on what time frame or era your going with for your build will determine what drop you have in the front axle.

 

1) go to cacklefest.com and look at the "cars" pages for information on the body construction and mounting. Basic short body would consist of a bellpan, side panels from the motorplate to just pass the rearaxle, rear side panels just beyond the front seat chassis upright. All overlapping towards the rear of the car at 2'' overlap. The top of the side panels should follow the top chassis main tubes, 2'' above.
The cowl depends on the shape of the motorplate. 5'' radius sides for mid 1960s cowls and the bottom edge overlapping the side panels at a minimim of 2'' for Dzus fasteners.
Basic windscreen lip can be formed over a 4'' tube object. Start in the center of a U-shape opening around 16'' wide and stretch the aluminum by slap hammering with a rubber sand mallet, working side to side forming a curved lip at a 30 degrees at the front and increase the angle to vertical at the sides of the cowl.
Use .050'' 3003-H14 aluminum sheet for the body. Make Poster Board patterns first, check your fit and it is alot cheaper than screwing up the sheet of aluminum. A tight fit around the Motorplate is needed incase the motor blows or a fire.
A poster board windscreen pattern should be made, 45 degree laid back angle at the front to vertical sides. The shape should look like a boomerang. 1/8 plexglass(no Lexan if you run NITRO, it will shatter) or 1/16 aluminum. You can heat form the plexglass with a couple waves from a propane torch. Try a practice piece first. Mount the windscreen with 10-32 Allen button head screws and 1/2 height nyloc nuts with 2-3 threads exposed out of the nut every 4 inch spacing. Do not tighten them, just snug surface to surface.

1960-1964 had 3'' drop axle with 40-45 degrees of caster, 1964- 1971 had 5'' drop with 30-35 degrees of caster. 1/8 toe in. Just basic front axle information.

 

My mockup....

 

Do you have a barrel valve to sell for an Enderle barndoor injector ?

 

Nope, my barn door is just a stripped case. I would like to find some parts for it.

 

Looks great Kev.

 

OT - Kev, did you buy that arrow "Open" sign from American Pickers?

 

Here is the latest one off my jig. 225" wheelbase for a late hemi NT/F with as much of an original look as I can do and have it comply with the rules. Took these pix yesterday to send to the owner. The front wheels are borrowed from my Don Long resto project which is actually sitting on the jig at the moment.

Roo

 

Very nice, I was wondering if the chassis in the jig was for the funny car you aquired. Your making fantastic progress on this car. Scott has been sending me your updates.

You should start a threat on each of the builds so we can follow along. The Don Long chassis that Roo Man has on the jig has some history to it.

It is the 1970 Soapy Sales fueler that Steve Carbone drove in Australia. That car was originally the Mr. Lucky that was pictured on the cover of the January 1970 issue of Hot Rod with a 426 Pink Elephant and Kelly Brown's name on the cowl. It never ran in that form and actually made its first run in Australia with one of Huff's 392 bullets in the frame. He acquired the car from the Dustman brothers from northern Ohio and has slowly been collecting parts to restore it. On his dragster wish list are a Powers & Reilly reverser and a M/T mag third member for an 8 3/4 Chrysler rear.

Keith you are always working on someone else's stuff. Build this car to have some fun with at the track! I am sure there are others here that would love to see the build (right guys?)!

Thanks again for you help at the track. I sent away the forms and have the temporay NHRA License back already (sent it to division 1)

 

I had a dennis rollain (R&B) car.The workmanship on it was just super.I did not know that the was gone. RLS

 

Hi Roo:
Excellent work as always.
Say 2 questions if you don't mind.

One is where do you get the CF Butt Bucket from?? How much?

Secondly is the joints you have in front of the MP. You have the upright teed into a doubler. Is this floating on the Jig till you Rosebud the doubler into the main rail?? As in you fixture them all in place then weld it up.

I was admiring your work on Glenns car. Stared at this for a second thinking how you did this. Its an excellent idea . I have helped on my friends (Matt) dragsters and seen some other cars were the joint is just welded to the single tube.
Always and I mean always have seen the car break in this area at some point in time or place.
https://picasaweb.google.com/LZkustomkraft/GlennFED?authkey=Gv1sRgCPugleyTjYv9Dw#5546949068559817538

Also think its not always realized how much abuse the car takes on the trailer if not supported and strapped properly.
Anyway thanks for your time.
see ya
Luke

 

My buddy Craig Striegle (Carbon Guy here on the HAMB) makes the seat base for me and I am not sure exactly how much they cost as we trade out with me making molds for him (along with the occasional part for his 27 T coupe). It is designed for 18" centerline spacing on the lower rails and is flexible to suit just about any upper rail width. If you want one I will get a price for you. I actually need to do that soon anyway as it will be part of the components list for my new Vintage Racing Supply business when it gets up and running later this year.
I started doing the sleeve deal for the very reason that you cite. When I lay out the front half of the car I space the sleeves to suit the upright placement and tack them at the rosette location. Once the uprights are tacked in place I then weld everything up, doing a little at each junction and moving around to avoid having the frame pull.

Roo

 

Very Nice Roo!!!! Very Nice!!!

 

AWSOME builds i really like this tread.

 

Here are some progress pictures of the 1961 Kent Fuller chassis tacked together and doing some fitting..what FUN ! The tail section is from Brian Fox, Chassis King, thanks.

 

Thank you ROO

I will get your Email from Glenn and give you a shout.
Not so sure this would work in my car as its a bit lay down. But would like to. Will measure and see.
NOTE*
Just got off phone. Glenn was on first run but had a woopsie. Car OK just a little driver moment. Then came the rains and on to the trailer.... FYI
This has been one incredibly bad spring.
thank you
Luke

 

I love the rear tires and wheels!

 

Is anyone building a Garlits style car today?
Tom S.

 

Can not see it as you have to log in.

 

Here is one of the two cars that I am building at the moment. It is a clone of Richie Broughton's Don Long car that was totalled back in the day. It still need some small brackets and the helmet strap added but you get the idea.
Next week I should have the body done on the other car to where I can post pix of it too.




Roo

 

Keith it looks Don Long to me see you this weekend it will be a great time hope you have your camera ready

TH

 

What other car????

 

Here are some pix that Throttlemonkey took of his car after he got it home last weekend. The body is only roughed in at this point and needs some more work before it it ready for paint but you can get the idea of what it will look like. Even though he does not have any heads for it yet he had to put it together (with a wooden blower manifold) so that he could sit in it and make engine noises <G>.

Roo

 

Hey Keith,is it gonna get canards too?