Well I got to get my engine running it's been sitting for to long and just begging to be started. I'll be keeping it simple till the cash flow is going better. So far I have a mild stroker 59a flathead, L100 cam, Denver heads, Edmunds 2x2. Also 1930 model A coupe starts and stops. The guy I bought it from bought it at an estate sale so the price was right for a coupe that nice. This what I'm looking to do with It... I'll be using both model a banjo and I beam with model a brakes. I know I know Not looking good at all. I have a '36 V8 banjo and front juice brakes so far and want to do a proper and safer build but with money tight I just want to get the engine running. This set up is not going to be how my build will stay, only for the summer come fall I'll be tearing it apart to do it right. The frame will be un-boxed. I'm not quite happy with it both front and rear cross members have been changed, and just behind where the banger engine mounts on the rails are cracked and have been repaired improperly. I'll be keeping my eyes open for a better frame. Now so far with the K-member at what I believe is at 47'' from spring perch to wishbone ball looks as if the engine is to far forward. Also banjo bell looks not close to the trans. I believe I have to go back about 3/4'' to 1 1/2''. The only parts I'm missing are the bells for the trans. If I had the parts could I size it up from the back of the trans for front mounts and wishbones? I'll be out there tomorrow to re-measure and try again. All in all here is some inspiration...
Do you think that amybe you should look at fitting juice brakes? I know you said moneys tight, why not drive it with the banger in it until you can afford some more safety features.... funerals are expensive
Looks good to me For me Hot rodding is all about doing with what you have avaliable, you can always upgrade later. Just keep in mind the limits of mechanical brakes when your out driving around.
not for the guy in the box if all you want to do is "get it fired" and hear it run... put it on a test stand dont make the mistake of "i'll just run it like it is" just for the sake of running it, and skip important shit...shake it off an keep building.
Mechanical brakes eh.., we don't wanna see any smushed yavin's. keep it simple and get it driving, that's the best motivation for a project when you have no monetary funds.
Mechanical brakes are deadly if your upping the horsepower ante that's for sure. My steering box needs some fine tuning so death trap all around. As for the fan I know a guy who has '33-35 fan mounted generators, for starts I was thinking 6 volts but talking to him, he can have it changed to an alternator in the generator case with a better bearing. I'm trying to keep it late '40's trad rod, with out cutting the fire wall.
Run the mechanical brakes !!!!! Turn the drums down , re-arch the shoes to match the drums and get a flathead ted float kit and you will stop just as good as juice brakes . check his site or typr in flathead ted on you tube . He locks up a 33 ford with mechanical brakes , mine work just as good . model a frame , T roadster body and 49 flatty
Nice I've heard about the flathead ted set up on Banger monthly. For the last week I've been working on balancing the mech brakes with the banger in. But if I do a full over hall of the mech brakes I'll look into a set, also link on new cast iron drums. > http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread...highlight=cast . This is a link on putting juice cylinders in a model baking plate another good option. > http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...backing+plates This is what I have found with the banjo/trans bells all hooked up. As I posted earlier this is with the model banjo, and with just the trans in she sits like this, from trans input shaft to rear of front stock cross member 25 1/2''. With the flathead in, front mount to rad mount is 6 1/4''. And wishbones are 40 1/4''. thous the model A banjo is too short by 1 1/4'', the engine is right on the fire wall, the body can still be mounted up but the engine doesn't look right that far back. Maybe in a 28,29 body with the different fire wall. This is probably why early hot rods had split model A wishbones. So for now the Banger will get this frame and I'll start looking for another Model A frame, then I can get the 37 banjo in place, Lincoln brakes with 2'' dropped model I beam, box rear section of the frame and get that flathead sitting right with un-split wishbones.
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