Sound Deadening

I'm getting a little ahead of myself on this, as I won't be working on the interior of my build any time soon. Regardless, I'm starting to flesh out my plan for the interior and I'd like to get some of your thoughts on sound deadening/heat reducing treatments.

Mainly I've been looking at DynaMat and Lizard Skin. Both are completely different in terms of construction/application, but they claim to do the same thing (reduce road noise, improve acoustics, reduce heat transfer from engine and outside to passenger compartment). Lizard Skin seems a lot less expensive and easier to use, but does it work as well?

Anyone have experience with either (or preferably both)?

Thanks,
Scott

 

I have used Dynamat, and it works well but is pretty expensive. You can get a similar, but cheaper, product called fatmat that works well also. I have heard good things about Lizardskin, but you need a special gun to spray it (huge orifice, its thick) and that drives up the cost if you are only planning to build one car.

 

I have never used either product, but have heard good about each. What I did do was spray the inside of my car with truck bedliner. The ruberized kind. It didnt do much for heat, but it REALLY cut down on rattles.

 

Find a roofing supply place and buy Ductwork covering , it comes in up to 4 foot wide rolls and it is alot cheaper than the above mentioned products and it does the same as Dynamat . I do not have a brand name but just call a supply house and they should be able to help .

 

used lizard skin on my last restoration '50 fi . it had a full interior installed full door panels, head liner, carpeted top of firewall to top of gas tank with padding. so quiet the customer wants me to change the heater motor because when the fan motor's off the tapping noise the end play in the armature makes is driving him nuts.

 

I have a link to a site for a product that you make up yourself to replace the lizard skin. Just trying to locate it.

 

I have used both Dyna mat on my wifes truck and Lizard Skin on my pickup.I can not tell the difference between the two.I do prefer Lizard skin because it can be sanded smooth and panted over,hope it helps.

 

Used LOBUCROD in my MERC. Looks like the stuff from home depot, but works much better, no moisture issues. he is a HAMB member, was very easy, cheap, and works great! found this information on a thread about a year ago. research it on the HAMB.
www.lubucrod.com

 

Wow, that stuff costs nothing!
...I just sent them a request for a product sample. Looking forward to checking it out.

 

hmmm, sound like I might go with some sort of a combination of the Lizard Skin and Dynamat (or a similar product).

For those of you that used the Lizard Skin, have you only tried an internal application? ...or has anyone tried using it in the wheel arches and such? curious to know how it holds up on the outside of teh vehicle.

Thanks again... all your replies area big help.

Cheers,
Scott

 

I have seen some people go to extreme lengths covering every square inch of sheet metal with sound deadener. A few strategically placed panels is all you really need to go from a "blang" to a "Thud". Use the good stuff and experiment on panel starting in the middle third and try it. Then add more if you need to.

Insulation is another story where you want good complete coverage.

 

Please read this site:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

It has a wealth of information. Also, search out some car audio forums and search what those guys use.

 

I've got original Sound Deadening on my car, And was considering removing it, Is it worth removing?

 

has anyone tried this stuff, from homedepot..
Thermwell Products Co., Inc 12 in. x 15 ft. Duct Insulation - FV516 at The Home Depot

 

I wouldn't use anything that can hold moisture.
Someone put something similar on the inside of my 52 F-1 doors, it fell off after a few years, dropped to the bottom of the doors & turned into a big wet sponge rotting out the doors.

 

Used this stuff on my roof and will put some on the fiewall, went on easy with spray adhesive.
And the website is www.lobucrod.com

 

Thanks for that link JK - very informative and timely as I am just embarking on heat insulation and sound deadening.

I am not a fan of Lizard Skin - my experience was that it was messy and minimally effective, if at all, even though I followed the instructions to the letter. I use Koolmat for my firewall heat insulation and a layer of double sided aluminum heat protection on top of the Koolmat: www.koolmat.com

I make sure everything is inflammable as well before I will use it. Ergonomics and insulation are two of my high criteria issues before getting to upholstery. On the underside of fenders I use truck bed liner and you can get it from Home Depot or a good automotive paint store.

 

Currently running two layers of dynamat along with a layer of the Reflectix stuff from Home Depot - even used the real metal tape for ductwork on the seams. Hit the floors really hard, and place like the cardboard divider between the back seat and trunk as well as the package tray. Made a BIG difference in some harmonics I was having at freeway speeds, and probably quieted the car down 5 to 10 dB at 70-75MPH. Planning to hit the insides of all four doors with the same treatment this winter, debating about the decklid and trunk sides as well.

 

You are freakin HOT ROD guys---its suppose to be noisy. I enjoy hearing the noises coming from my car. The dual exhaust, the shifting of the transmission and all the other noises a car isn`t suppose to make.

 

I used LOBUCROD's stuff in my 52 coupe. covered the firewall, floors and the roof. did a pretty nice job of insulating heat and did a bang up job of quieting things down.

when you add a layer of jute and a layer of quality carpet, it goes a long way!

i bought 1 roll and i think i used about half of it plus a couple of cans of spray-tac.

 

Eastwood has their own butyl sheet deadener, same or nearly same stuff as Dynamat apparently, but Eastwood branded, cheaper.

 

You can spray the lizzard skin from a small 1 qt. sand blasting gun.

 

Here's link to where I bought Dynamat product for 50% of list, 20% less than Speedway. streetsideauto.com. It makes using the good stuff a little easier.

 

Something to consider is the flamability of the product, most of the aluminized type sound deadeners can have a map gas torch flame applied directly to them for per my testing 15 to 30 seconds at least. The spray on stuff does not do this, the duct covering does not do this. I have my muffler mounted under my floor boards, I used the type of deadener that Jegs sells, applied it to the bottom of the finished boards, it does an excellent job of insulating and dissipating the heat generated, the clearance is less than one inch. Not to say never to other products but you should always consider heat exposure for safety.

 

I've used dynamat and currently use Thermo-Tec acoustic mat for the doors and thier foil backed insulation for the floor, toe board and inside firewall. Very similar product and costs a great deal less.

 

Can anyone shine a light on when in the build process is the best time to install the sound deadening?
Using the Stuff like Lobuckrod sells

 

Is this a spray in or a sheet mat? Sheet mat can go in during the build after paint, check out the Brizio builds as a clue for when he installs it. He shows a lot of pics.

 

Sheet..not spray.
I wont be finish painting (glossy) this year, but will be driving the car, or intend to get it on the road..could it be done before final paint? or dont , because i'd have to take it back out?

 

This guy is down the street from me. We print his logo on the raw sheets. I haven't used it, myself.
Hushmat
http://www.hushmat.com/index.php?cu...133&pr=Where_To_Buy&step=category&category=81

 

So, is the consensus to use a sheet or spray solution?