have you used CLR to deal with surface rust ???

Can you prove it with pics ? I've been searching how to deal with surface rust before grinding away . i wanna limit grinding to a minimum . and there no money for dip or blasting . this is a clr thread thanks guys . know some who has clr it . tell them to post . thanks .

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=520460

 

holy shit guys ., i just started clring my international... dude it removes rust as if it was dirt . I mean the heavy stuff ... its has already started saving me money in roll locks and paper . try it . and tell them .jake sent ya .

 

CLR is mostly water.
From the Material Safety Data Sheet:

WATER (68-74%), GLYCOLIC ACID (13-16%), SULFAMIC ACID (3-6%), DISODIUM CAPRYLOAMPHODIPROPIONATE (4-7%), ETHANOL, 2-BUTOXY- (1-4%), 1,2,3-PROPANETRICARBOXYLIC ACID, 2-HYDROXY- (1-4%)

Glycolic acid is a safe mild acid mostly found in skin care products, which also can be used to remove rust stains, but is no more effective than vinegar, citric acids or molasses.
Sulfamic acid works well to remove calcium, lime and hard water deposits.
The next ingredient is a surfactant.

CLR is a mild and very diluted household product and sold for a relatively high price, because of marketing and packaging.

Oxalic acid crystals (aka. Wood bleach in hardware stores) work really well to remove rust and makes gallons of cheap, effective and safe rust remover in comparison and for the same price as a 28oz bottle of CLR.
It is safe even with the softer metals and can be reused until depleted.
Heat and agitation increases effectiveness.

 

Any dangers to using this wood bleach?

 

From what i can remember those are the same basic ingredients that we use for our acid bath. It works really well.

 

I have used it forever in woodworking to clean wood after steelwool, especially when using water based dyes or stains.
It's not really a bleach, just a prep cleaner for wood.

But its my favorite rust remover because it works better than the mentioned acids and is still safe.
Just protect your eyes and skin and work in a well ventilated area.

You can mix it to desired strength and just make small batches at a time, which will last for a long time.

 

This wood bleach you speak of. Is it easy to find?

 

Hardware stores carry wood bleach

 

All my local hardware stores carry it.
These are the two brands selling the same crystals in 12oz. containers for around $7.





Didn't mean to hijack this thread, but if an acidic cleaner is available in a grocery store, there is probably something better in the hardware store for less cost.


If you need something stronger and faster than oxalic, go with Muriatic acid (HCL diluted at 30%).
It's used to clean swimming pools and concrete, but is very caustic and is not so safe.
Also in the hardware stores.


Also its best to neutralize metal treated with acid using washing soda, available at the grocery store, in the detergent aisle.

 

baking soda will neutralize acid with a quikness.

 

Washing soda is a stronger base than baking soda and more effective using less.

 

I just bought 5lbs of oxalic acid crystals from evilpay for $18. Can't wait to get started "de-rusting" everything I can.

 

Keep it as hot as you can and keep it flowing around the metal.
Works cold too, just takes much longer for the chemical reaction to remove the rust.

I descaled and removed the rust of my old engine's cooling system, earlier this year.
Kept it in there and ran the engine for two days.
Amazing how much rust and crap came out.
Now the engine stays cool even under heavy load.
I tried the same procedure with straight vinegar before, but it didn't work nearly as well.

Prestone used to sell an engine flush kit with oxalic and washing soda powders at 9 and 2 oz. each.
Not available anymore, but you can still make your own.

 

good to know. more info is better right? im just saying clr was like 18 bucks for a big tub and made 15 gallons. worked for me.. ill try the wood bleach too tho

 

If soaking a block what will it do to aluminum pistons AND cam bearings?

 

I used the washing soda with the electrolysis experiment. Worked OK, but took FOREVER, and was pretty labor intensive (to get sett up and tear down)! Going to try the wood bleach. Worst case, I use it for my old intakes, heads, etc.

 

Nice, wood bleach. I've thought of CLR before, and have a big jug of muriatic in my garage,, my uni even has a bit of rust I've been needing to take care of. Thanks for more great tips.

 

what works the best to clean aluminum ?

 

CLR and oxalic acid work about the same, as far as I can tell. I used to use oxalic acid to clean rust off the stainless steel trim on my saltwater boat, and it was pretty innocuous, rubber gloves and eye protection. After using electrolysis, I'd say there is no comparison with these mild acids. Electrolysis is cheaper and works better, just set up your plastic tub with the parts in it and a battery charger and walk away for a couple of days. When you come back the rust is completely gone with minimal scrubbing. I found the acids take a lot of scrubbing to get down through the layers of rust.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=505058

 

Again, do I have to take out the cam bearings first or not?

 

BTTT, doing some research today.

Anybody had any luck with wood bleach on large sheetmetal partss?

 

I used white vinegar, found the same thing, It did the job, but you had to work at it.

 

Great thread!