I'm wanting to put 3 dueces on my 1959 Skyliner w a freshly rebuilt, stock configuration 352 Fe big block. (cruise-a-matic). I live at 5000' here in Northern Colo. My question is what mods should I consider for this setup?
You leave too many questions to answer. With the car & weight you are probably looking for visual appeal more than overall performance, so an original 3X2 FE would not be too important? The original 3X2's were 1961-63 so authentic is not necessarily too important since this is not a restoration. There are a couple of Edelbrock F380's in the Parts for sale section here now, so look at those for a good buy. Otherwise Royalshifter has an original for I think $1200. 3 deuces are neat and can really run strong with the matching heads-cam-headers plus gears and trans combo. Lots of midrange torque. Movin/on
I am looking for both visual and performance gains. She's a cruiser, and I'm not going to race her, but I do want more power to help here in the mountains. From time to time I plan on pulling either a camper trailer or car trailer with my Amphicar. Both the hills and altitude have thier affects that I want to overcome for daily driving. I am not sure of what heads, cam, ign or? I should go with for a 3x2 setup. As I pointed out, she's bone stock, so what upgrades should I make for best overll street-ability without going nuts or making it unreliable?
What version of the 352 do you have? A bone stock 1959 352 was rated (probably overrated) at 300 hp and 395 ft-lbs of torque with the 4-barrel. How much more do you want? The Edelbrock heads and Preformer RPM intake (4 barrel) are very good flowing units and probably cheaper than a 3x2 setup. A good set of headers is worth 25-30 Hp over the original log minfolds. If you are looking to use the car as a tow vehicle, look into RV or truck cam's, this will produce more low RPM torque. You may want to consider replacing the cruiso with a C-6 or AOD. Cruiso's are not the most efficient auto ever built, and can gobble up a bunch of power. There are lots of options for FE's, do some research see what you come up with.
I'm using the four bolt F380 on my Edsel, which is the virtual twin to your '59. As a word of warning, when I stabbed in the distributor and tried to put the carbs on, the front one hits the dizzy. I'm waiting on some 2" risers to show up, which *should* fix the problem, but may require some butchering to the hood. I'll know soon. Pics for reference: Not really a deal breaker, and maybe others have not had this issue. Just be aware. If I was doing it over again I might have looked for a 3 bolt manifold.
I'm using a rebuilt stock 59 distributor. I guess it's a little bigger than the Mallory. The risers should fix it, but it's an akward solution. There's lots of choices for FE distributors, but the OP's stock piece is probably the same one as my 361's.
Perhaps that is why Ford ran the carburetors "backward" on the stock three two setups with the added complication of passenger side linkage. These guys seem to have a handle on it and their website does a pretty good job of explaining the basics; www. hptrends.com
My setup has 3 Stromberg WW's on 'backwards" the Float bowls are to the rear. Lots of room that way. Movin/on
If possible, use a factory Ford Tri-Power....No problems. These were sold in T-Birds to little old grey haired ladys. I'm sure they were the same in Denver as anyplace else. I've run mine for over 30 years, have been as high as Lake Tahoe, no problems. Flow better than any aftermarket manifold. Ford parts WORK!!!!
I have a Ford 3x2 intake setup with carbs backwards and linkage one the right so it looks like clearance won't be an issue as with that beautiful Merc engine. All I need is the air cleaner. I'll be adding headers and cam, but will have to wait for a tranny change. The Cruise-O is fresh, so I have to wait for $ reasons. Seems I always start out going factory correct and end upgrading with bolt-ons later. It's the restorer guy in me fighting with the hot rodder in me! Even my Amphicar started out with the original single solex and now sports twin SUs. The 352 I have is not the Police interceptor version, but she's all new inside. The 3x2s will go a long way towards regaining the 15% HP loss at this altitude. I am loking for more HP (who doesn't want more?) and I like the look of the 3x2s as well. My next thing will be tune and setup of the carbs. I'm not good with carbs, almost every other system I have a handle on, but carbs always seem to kick my ass. Here's my stock engine in the car after I rebuilt it. She spent all her life outside and was in great shape inspite of it. It was on a dirt road and years of weeping oil created about an inch+ of oil soaked dirt. The rest of the car was as yo see it. Only rust was about a 3x3 spot on the lower rear section of the front fender.
Get a cam with good torque at low rpm and look for the 61-61 shorty cast iron headers or use the Sanderson block hugger headers. Free up the exhaust, duals etc.
here is a place that might have some headers for you http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/FPA index1.htm Good luck let us know what you find out.
Thanks for all the great info folks! It's been a big help! When I have my 3x2 setup in hand I'll fill you in on what I found! If it works, I can get my headers sooner. "Sometimes it's better to be lucky than good!"
Here it is! $600! Smokin deal, just need a correct oval air cleaner, rebuild kits and a box-o-ambition!
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