I have an 8BA. Motor was completed and running when I purchased it. I pulled heads to inspect. It appears that every cylinder has been sleeved back to standard so it looks as if some one has put some $$$ into the block. I did however notice one spot of corrosion around a head bolt between two water outlet holes. How bad is the corrosion around this head bolt hole? Does it need to be fixed? What is the best way if it does?
Do you still have the head gasket that came off of it? If you do lay it back on and see if it is one of the holes that has the plastic sealer around it. Im thinking Fel-Pro gasket here by the way. I personally have never had real great luck with th copper head gaskets. If it is one of the holes with the sealant around it, Id say youre alright. just make sure you use some ARP thread sealant on the studs when you put the head back on. That stup should be far enough away from the combstion chamber sealing ring.
I have used JB weld on places like that and never had it fail. I clean the area then put a bolt in the threads and JB around it -Let it sit 24 hrs. then remove bolt and use a flat bastard file and smooth it down. It just gives the head gasket a little more support and sealing surface.
Ray Withs advice about JB weld will repair this just fine. This looks like the engine had a rough life at some time and the thread stud was stripped out at the very top allowing the water to pool up and form a rust cavity. A couple of those valve look pretty pitted and from the carbon track on #6 it looks like the intake wasn't seating to good. Coat the cylinders with some of that spray fogger oil that you use to winterize your lawn mover , it will prevent the cylinders from rusting up while you use the block for a mock up. The engine doesnt appear to have much of a wear ridge so a simple hone job might clean the bores up and be ready to run.
You received good advise on the JB weld stuff. Since you have it down this far, hopefully you'll take it the rest of the way down, hot-tank it, at least hone the cylinders and redo the valves. The valves look rusted/pitted and I'm going to bet the sealing surfaces are the same (at least in the valves that were 'open' for any period of time. Depending on the shape of the valves, it may be necessary to purchase a whole new set -- is probably what I'd do (especially if they stems are worn - or there isn't much margin left). You've gone this far - just go a bit further and ensure that you rebuild all the problem areas.
I was close to being impatient with the 8BA I got that had been rebuilt and stored, but I decided to open it up to make sure. I'm glad I did....mice had filled the water jackets with corn and lint, 2 cylinders were lightly rusted, and a handful of valves were rusted as well. Over on the flathead forum, I asked about the light rust, and the general consensus was to tear it all the way down, clean it, inspect the rings and seals, and put it back together. In the process, if it needs new parts, ok fine, but if it's good, it goes back on. Time is the only major PITA here. My $.02
What is everyones thoughts on making this a full oiler while its apart? Is it necessary to update and is it worth it? Buy the kit or do it myself like in the old magazine article?
I have use JB weld in exhaust ports area and never had a problem that stuff is the best. Fill in the area in concern and file it down smooth and use a Fel Pro gasket no copper style gasket and it will be OK. Frenchy
This magazine article? http://home1.gte.net/wgmumaw/Full Flow Filter/FFfilterBills.htm If so then of course you should do it.
My take on the full pressure system (opinion only), it is a waste of time and money for a street engine. It looks neat but unless you have a full out attack engine there is no need for a full pressure system, simply changing the oil every 3000 miles as recommended will accomplish the same thing. You should put more priority on an adequate cooling system with a good radiator and air flow.
X2 on the valve job suggestion. If the faces of the valves are that pitted, the seats can't be in that good shape. Flatman
12/27/09 Thanks for posting the article. Would the oil filter be in the way of installing Fenton cast iron headers?
Hard for me to say, the whole set up is custom DIY so just depends on how you would install the tubing or hoses and where you put the filter.
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