Projects Phaeton build any pics or ideas??

There isn't a Model T Phaeton because a Model T Touring is one.

Both Model T Touring's and later model Ford Phaeton's have two divided seating areas, no side windows, and a fold down top. The only differences are a fold down front windshield on Phaetons and a fourth door on the driver's side of the body of Phaetons. (touring dont have a drivers side door) It could be that Ford decided to drop the touring name in '27 and use the phaeton name, like when Ford switched from using cabriolet to convertible in I think '38 or '39.

 

Rodney and Marlene Bauman's Tub comes to mind. It's real clean and has been in their family for ever. I'll see if I can post a picture.

T's are tourings not Phaetons I believe Phaetons started with the model A. Someday I'm going to own an A Phaeton. Yours is just perfect, a little stance and big and littles, maybe some Kelseys and she's done.

Tim

 

thanks payne....always wondered

 

The '32 tub was in the October 1958 "Car Craft". It was owned by Ron Durr, Menlo Park, Ca.

 

hello....thanks to all that have posted great info and stories.
here is a few pics that were requested..enjoy
the phaeton will be keeping the fenders as my little ones will be with me,also got some 1935 spoke wheels and will change the stance,I will post pics as I go thanks.
keep posting ideas,stories,info,pictures.
also looked through my 32 book and fell in love with Richard Graves 32 Phaeton,verry cool....


http://

 

rodders call em tubs! Yea i wished I had finished mine, I thought i was getting out of hot rods, when I went into motorcycles. Ha! rodding is a desease.

 

Lot of old farts building tubs. Some of us are a bit slower than most. I have a 29 thats going on 5 years. It was cut in two during WWII. Gona be full fender,droped 4inches front,droped headlight bar with stock lights. 47 flatty with 2 carbs edelbrock heads,mild cam,39 3speed,40 rear,35 wires.
I am working on straighting out the body now.

 

This was my work car back in the mid '70's. I froze my butt off in the cold weather and finally got a Chev pick up. It was a lot of fun otherwise.

 

Old fart 1941, pics please....

 

I still have a long way to go.
I am going to use a f100 crossmember with a 37-41 wishbone. It sure looks a lot simpler than messing with a k member.
You have to be careful with reproduction open car parts. A lot of them are junk or close to it.

 

How would you eliminate the model a rear cross member to lower the rear seat floor?

I'm thinking parallel leaves? Or maybe truck arm and coils?

I ask because I have an A tub (from a tudor sedan) and found that the rear cross member really intruded into the rear seat area after I stepped the chassis the height of the frame. The car had the right stance, but the rear seat was too high.

 

Hi Wildfire,

any more shots of your car? I like what I see in the avatar.

 

What you need is a 2 door cdan get a ROOF LOL JK BRAIN
COOL BUILD NOW GET SOME $$$ TO BUILD IT
DAVE

 

daveyboy...I got a roadster for sale, buy it...
then I will have money for the phaeton build..
see ya B

 

Not a '28/'29, & not a real phaeton, but a pretty cool old car & a neat old picture....

 

I posted the above pic. Pretty sure it's a real tub... check the body line around the rear. The folding top would fit into/around that reveal when dropped.

 

Wildfire, extend your frame passed the diff and build a flat x-member that is no higher then the top of the frame. You can build one out of a 35-40 x-member if you want it to look original, you have to slice and dice it a bit to get it flat, NealinCa did it, looks killer. Then run a 35-48 front spring in the rear, works awesome, you'll keep your seat room.

29 bones, theres a great thread on here about lowering stock A suspended cars. I think Chris may have atarted it. Shows all the lil tricks on getting em down.

-Shiny

 

then you might also like these two Harrison...

....and they are full fendered - to keep some relevance and smaller my bad conscious towards the owner of the thread...

Sorry 29 bones - no intention to hijack - just love phaetons

 

I knew I had some pictures of some '28-9 tubs. Here is one from the early '60's. Pretty neat, huh?

 

I have a 28 tub carcass ,its missing the rear panel that goes between the 1/4 panels and I was thinking of the front seat back are as well...any idea how good or bad the repops of these are?

 

thunkfink... no harm done..post what you want on the thread, its all education on phaetons....

 

They have to be better than nothing. They would at least be something to start with.

As cheap as those panels are, I'd have a hard time not building that body if it were mine.

JH

 

I bought one of them after market panels and should have fix my old one. It's ok but needed to be shrunk on the bottom to fit correct as well as the radius rerolled a bit. The repo top beads are kinda square and have to be reworked as well if your picky. But stupid small things like that, other then that it does work if you need one.Plus I thought the price was cheap for the large panel. They also do sell the front seat back but mine was fine so I don't know about that.

A few more I have collected

 

Koolkemp I had the same problems as Continentaljohn with the rear panel,it took me a few weeks to get it close.
I am now working on the frontseat back. I talked to a Hamber who works with his dad at their model a restoration shop. He said they recently used one of the repro frontseat backs and it was to narrow,the wrong shape and the top where the wood attaches was incorrect. He said it took the both of them a few days to get it close.
Mine is very lumpy and has many holes and a few rips
Keep us posted on your progress.

 

CONTINENTALJOHN, great photos,

 

two that i like:

 

here's a link to a thread with more pics:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=347682

 

Regarding the original purpose of the thread...

I think you'll really like the 35 wires with a slightly lower suspension, reversed eyes and leaves removed. I too would get rid of the spare tire well and pull the bumpers and that luggage rack. A raked windshield would look great.

What are you going to do about the engine/trans and brakes? Bangers run fine, I've had mine up to 54.4 mph at 2000 rpm in 4 gear, that's with 1500 rpm left and another gear (its a t-5 from an S10). The rear gear is a 3.78. The point is they are a usable engine, just expensive to build. Brakes are another matter. Some use the mechanicals, but I don't have the time to maintain and adjust.

 

Regarding the engine trans:

With full hood:
2.3 Ford four with a 5 speed - Ranger or Mustang donor - maybe from a ministock car?
SBC and an auto, column shift

Open hood or no hood:
Flathead w/trans of choice, personally I like the t-5
Banger with t-5 (talk to crazydaddyo about a torque tube adaptor set up

 

Thanks I have been collecting them for some time, you know how you can over think something That's most likely what I did with my pheatons.

Wildfire, dig the tub and your post/link is great Thanks