Yeah, I wondered the same, but Tman said he would have a hole with a plug to drive the pin in through. I just thought about it, and Tman, you will need 2 holes, so you can drive the pin out again. I like the ideas here. Mart.
Thought about the 2 hole deal, then noticed some hardened roll pins in my stash. The plan is to use one a tad oversize and drive it in from one side. all it does is keep the coupler from moving fore/aft, the splines are the torque resisting element. You could also use a bolt. Tap the coupler and buy or machine a bolt with a few threads at the head and the rest is a pin. thread it in with some loctite and be done. Like I mentioned, I have a threded steel bung that I was going to weld into the side with a plug, there might be enough meat now to just tap the housing w/o messing with a bung.
No, the coupler does not go in that far. The splines only go about 3/4 the way to the pinion nut which prtrudes from the banjo a good inch. I reposted the Spicer numbers above in the thread, I will double check the yoke on Monday.
Post up some pics of yours for comparison Pete. Vent wise I am looking at a stock Ford housing vent. I know the Hot Rod works tried a drilled banjo bolt/hose configuration. I seem to remember them having problems with it?
You know what Kev? I HAD to blast and prime that thing. I was going to take pics of it as is and said to myself "self, if you dont clean this thing up Kevin will razz you to no end!"
I actually almost suggested you leave it outside for a while and paint it a few times before welding.
Here's a link to the correct page of my build thread that shows my conversion. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=282490&page=4 What happens if you don't have a vent? Does pressure somehow build up? If the answer to the second question is "yes" then don't bother answering the first. I can imagine. Pete
di you check how much 'rock' or slop there is between the coupler and the pinion splines?, if theres more than a few thou that seal wont last long, as its so far from the axis of the pin, the movement will chop out the seal, and possibly cause a driveline vibration. I looked into all this when I did my conversion, and the only way I felt I could trust the conversion was to eliminate the coupler, and spline the pinion shaft to suit a yoke with a fine spline and an end locking (BIG)nut to hold it on. Now maybe the splines on the coupler I had were worn out, but they didnt look it, and they had way too much movement to contain with a roll pin, I felt it would leak, and vibrate ,gauranteed. I hope yours is a tight fit!
I shortened the coupler until it seated all the way down on the splines. My splines are tight, the coupler is a light tap fit to seat it home. It is very similar to commercially available kits.
Cool thanks! I forgot how many neat touches you have done to that car! Pretty sure a vent is a good idea
I really like your build and admire all the details. One thing has me puzzled about your conversion though, your u-joint saddle is closed (no u-joint straps). I don't see how you are going to mount the driveshaft without pressing it on the car.
The answer to question #2 is YES. It will probably push out either the yoke seal or one of the axle seals. We found a vent outboard of the differential bearings, in a housing, worked the best. There is too much oil slinging around in the center section, and it tends to leak.
Yeah, I fucked up there a bit. I wasn't thinking straight when I did it. It's not that big a deal though. I just have to tap the caps in carefully to assemble it on the car. Not super convenient but not too bad. Pete
Is there enough slack in your front yoke to slide the driveshaft with the rear yoke attached forward enought to get the coupler started and then slide it back rearward?
Hijack: Hot Rod Works: I bought a vent from you that is just a hollow bolt with a fitting on it ? Is this enough?
It would work as a vent, but the down side is that there is so much oil slinging around in the center section the oil may push out of the vent. We thought it would be a good idea to be able to install a vent without drilling and tapping. I'd suggest a vent drilled into the axle housing.
I havent noticed any real problems with oil getting slung out the vent/ bolt. Maybe enough to make the diff wet enough for dirt to stick to it. Thanks Tman , this is a good tech. Hope the straw shop has more tech in the future. Jeff
First off, super bitchin tech Regarding the vent issue......don't want to drill a hole?? Instead of the fill plug use a brass nipple adapter. Piece of vacuum hose over the nipple going up into the axle well. Near the top it's capped with a little vacuum hose breather vent sold at napa, it's got a brass fuel filter style disc bout the size of a dime with a vacuum nipple on the back. Real easy and when explained to others lets ya say nipple a whole bunch. It's almost as fun as changing that drain dealie on the radiator I can never find a freakin differential vent when I need one and have put tons of miles on this setup. NIPPLE!
I haven't tried that but I doubt it. It's really not so bad tapping the caps in and out of that rear yoke. I've done it a couple of times already through my build and it's no biggie. I probably won't want to be doing it on the side of the road too often I guess. Pete
T-Bolt - Great tech! Thanks. And next time I go to the parts store, I'll be sayin' "nipple" AND "petcock", up one side and down the other! I built my house out of sticks, Scotty
Sorry Tman, no part number. Ever time I need one I just ask to see the book pages with their vacuum hose adapters & tees. I'm pretty sure it's a 70s/80s ford emission system part that's used for venting vacuum operated switches to atmosphere. Since venting is actually pulling outside air in they need filtration. Literally looks like the head of a dime with a half inch long plastic nipple on the back. Not to be confused with dime sized nipples.
Cool. On another note, my local Carquest showed me the crappy new catalogs they got. Things are so bad they kept all their old ones!
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