The build moves on, and develops... Built as above, with tightly fit hole and o-ring, device turns smoothly, stays in place after turning, and is easy to dismantle... So instead of marking point events on the disc, I put them on a second disc. Mine sits underneath disc number one, and can be used in alignment with it or rotated...it is also easy to just swap discs. As the thing turns...easy way to mark is to first carefully verify that you are turning distrib the right way and observe point activity. Now, mark off fron the zero line 22.5 degrees from zero and 36 degrees from zero...next, go BACK 22.5 from the 36 and mark again, marking closed span of LEFT point set. If you care, both remain open for 9 degrees past the 36, then right closes again and cycle starts again. Marking as in this paragraph is I think easier and less confusing than the way I described same events above. Marking: Use a sharp scribe, align straightedge at desired degree AND equivalent on opposite edge, be VERY careful to holditallstill as you scribe. You can run a sharpy down the scribe marks to allow quick spotting, maybe even separate colors for right and left. When working on distributor, I always draw rotation arrows on both point plate and back of housing as a mnemonic device--I can follow the arrow without getting bollixed up. Degree wheels are also marked with arrow on the little protruding tab. To review, when turning as long as either point is closed your test light will be on. When both are open, light will be off. Opening of left point is actual firing time, the timing event. Events should happen very close to your lines after gapping points if points are properly made (pivot in right place) and if point plate is undamaged. If way off with gap at spec, something evil is going on and you likely need to find a new source for points... And also point dwell can be checked separately by simply electrically blocking one point at a time with a clean strip of paper, cardboard, or whatever. Remember...22.5 plus 22.5 equals...36! Mallory Math!
Very nicely done! My nephew wants to make one for his toolbox. Its great to see this passed on to another generation.
So far it is pretty much a functional copy of an Echlin dwell wheel. I think with a bit more tinkering I can turn it into a timing device as well, though that can be done separately with the Ford field expedient ruler method... I will try to stick with the lathe-free, dirt cheap approach as I develop this. As I said, I will also derive a ruler--timing method for the early distributor. Already posted one once, but I am not really satisfied with it, AND I have found a clue to a better way in a Ford patent... Need somebody with a camera here...only so much can be described verbally.
I missed this thread but he also did the convertion on mine....very nice job I might ad and it works great......
WOW! After reading this I have come to he conclusion that Bruce is the FLATHEAD GOD!!! We are not worthy...we are not worthy......
I would like to nominate Bruce's degree wheel as a tech week nominee. How do you do that? Not to diminish the services of rebuilding that fixed the problem that the tread was about, but Bruce's wheel and the logic in the posts will get you out of trouble when there's no other resources in the toolbox but a sheet of emory and a spare set of points. The wheel and his directions on how to use it belong in your log book.
Well...had a semi-bad weekend with wife quite sick, so had to stick to light tech improvements...timing attachment to dwellerator remains in incomplete prototype form... But...with wife asleep, there was no point in fancy cooking, so Chihuahua and I decided to bach it for lunch. No need for fancy implements or numerous food groups, either; just the two of us, one fork, and a size large can of "Goya" brand Vienna sausages, the dog's favorite. Sausage for me, sausage for dog til can was empty; pour the broth down a cat. WAIT! The size there...that registers a hit in the CAD program database in my head! YES!! The rim of the can EXACTLY snaps onto the '42 Ford distributor rim for the cap!! A quick notch cut for the locater pin with a rat-bastard needle file and it snaps on better than a NOS cap... and we have not only a snack for man and beast but a stand for the distributor, holding it neatly while using the degree wheel on the back! KR Wilson could not have engineered a better fit!! Next...I'll get back to a simple timing locater, but I'll also be looking for a smaller can. The crab distributor with a simple addition is also going to be a valve-setting degree wheel, replicating another vintage speed tool.
You crack me up Bruce. I think we need to go together and buy Bruce a digital camera. What do you say guys??? Pm me.. I'm serious here. I want to see his damn 32 too. I'd give anything to see your words with pictures. Visual learner here. Thanks Bruce for taking the time for this.
One more tip for now, an easy improvement on Ford's two-ruler timing technique: Holding everything right requires considerable dexterity, but the "General" brand pocket rule that everyone with a toolbox has been familiar with for several generations solves the problem! I bet 9 out of 10 HAMBers have one of these: Thin 6" rule with a sliding "T" that serves as a pocket clip and also as a simple depth gauge. Well...my engineering studies have concluded that the protrusion of the ends of the T part is exactly 3/8", making this particular rule perfect for that timing technique and greatly reducing the number of fingers needed. I haven't yet checked the imported copy now replacing the old General at Sears, but the technique is there. If your rule doesn't measure up, simply shorten or extend the T to make it your personal timing fixture.
Hmmm...my crab degree wheel fits right into the retractable cupholder on my computer! Somebody tell me how to post it now!
Electronic & dont they make a reproduction wire that looks like the original thats compatable for todays technology? I dig those fabric ones too, when do you make the call?
I have a model A and fought with the points, too. The fiber does wear fast. But you can use points from a 70's ford. One piece, the points and the stationary contact are one unit. The rubbing block is composite and wears more slowly. You will still have Ford points, but might get a little more driving and a little less fixing . Good luck, which ever way you go.
I think he means the felt piece that sits in contact with the distributor shaft and gets saturated with the grease you use to lubricate the rubbing block on the points that rides on the distributor shaft. I'd like to buy a period please, Chuck. Sorry for the long sentence.
On the A points...you can still get good stockers from Brattons, and i think Standard. The issues on A's are bad materials in the imported resto-grade sets and the new B cams...according to the most experienced A ignition types, cams from A&L or Brattons are basically all right if you can't find original B, but surface is slightly too aggressive and will eat point blocks for about the first thousand miles til polished in. Stock points, if you can get good ones, are easier to set and fit a whole lot better than the late ones...if they wanted to mess around, they should have used maybe Mopar points or such to get better fit in there. Search FordBarn A using just "distributor" as search term, print off all of Marco's beautifully illustrated distributor rants, and you will have a shop manual and encyclopedia of A ignition!
Here's a more practical way to set the timing than the ruler method. A 3/8" bolt double-nutted in the distributor body boss acts as a flagpole to precisely define the edge of the mounting hole. Another 3/8" bolt tapped to a piece of flat stock is used as a spacer to set the clearance spec. I hook my multimeter to the distributor and adjust the advance until the points just close when the spacer bolt touched the flagpole. NOTE: flat stock is on the WIDE side of the shaft.
I just came across a bunch of NOS point sets for the Ford flatheads but they all have a very slight amount of rust on them, is there a way to clean these up perty? soda blast? chemical dip? or just emery ( or light file) on the contacts and run 'em?
One other suggestion on the points bit. Look for points that have a fiber rubbing block. The points lube soaks into them because they're somewhat porous. Some of the later model points have the rubbing block made of delrin or some other plastic with lubricity, but points grease still helps on these. The Chinese ones are probably straight plastic and not worth the trouble. As noted previously, points ignitions are great cuz they're serviceable in the field. When the fancy-schmancy electronic ones go south very few are prepared or capable of trouble shooting them. I know, I run an MSD amplifier box in the 32 and a Uni-Lite distributor - bout 14 years so far - but if the box fails, swapping a couple of wires will get me home. If the distributor fails, I have a rebuilt Delco distributor I carry most times. Not because of any particular fear, but I do subscribe to the Boy Scout motto. Plans for the 31 on 32 frame project roadster are for a new bushings etc. rebuilt single point Delco distributor with vacuum advance and an MSD box. It should work fine and the engine usually gets shifted prior to 5 grand anyway....
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