Just wondering if any of you guys built a chassis jig and if so,What steel did you use and what do you think is a good width and length.thanks fitzee
I was gonna say the lotus 7 guys make their jigs out of 3/4" ply. they build a heavy table and have a thick ply top and level it out.....easy to clamp stuff to, and cheap. as far a a steel table we use 1/4" for our formula SAE car at school (just a 4x8 sheet) supported on some angle and 4x4 legs.
Mine is built out of 8 inch I beam, its almost 17 feet long and 6 1/2 feet wide, its got an outer beam on each side that runs the length, and an end beam on each end, and one beam running the same as the end beams right in the middle. Its on legs about 3 1/2 feet tall so its real easy to get under to weld and do things. on each leg is a leveling adjuster go you can can screw it up or down to make sure its exactly level and true. I used it like this for a few years then I updated it with lazer cut 1/2 thick plates that are computerized and cut with a top plate, this is a true and square assembly that slides up and back for different wheel bases and also adjustable for different widths of cars and is seperate from front to rear for different track widths if using a narrowed rear. I built it about 12 years ago. Spent alot of time at the metal yard finding true I beams that were not bent or twisted, the adjusters for the legs were found at an industrial surplus place for about $20, I think if I can remember right I have less than $500, but steel is a lot more now. I put it outside whn not being used, due the the size of it and the realativly small shop size I have. I have done many chassis on it, including a few twin rail full round tube chassis, it works very nice. I have to bring it in the shop in the next month or so so I will try to get a pic or two and post then. I also have a stock car buddy that had one that was smaller and lighter, it was made out of 4x4 square tube also with adjusters on the legs. The adjusters are very important to level it out, so when you put a angle finder or bubble level on something you are welding in you know its level and true with the universe. A real good way to get a good base for a chassis jig surface is to go to a body shop auction that is closing. Buy the unibody roll around chassis aligners/straighteners, they are usually made out of almost 10x10 square tubing and are on wheels, then you can add your own levelers, I went to an auction last year and one went for $300, with all the alignment/straightening stuff, you can keep the frame peice and sell of the stuff you don't need. Hope this helps.
I built mine out 8'' I beams also.The legs are 30'' with adjusters to level it up.Pretty much, what rodbuilder described.
I'm building mine from an Evinrude boat trailer I bought at an auction for $50.00 (w/boat..gave that away)..The trailer is really HD..built from 8" I-beam about 20 feet long. I-beam crossmembers, too. I think I'm going to leave the axle on it (it's out of the way) so I have a way of moving it out of my shop when not in use. I'll build retractable legs so I can pull 'em up when moving it around. Years ago I built a jig for stock cars and used 6X6 tubing..about .083 thick...4" channel for crossmembers...nice and stable but forget about moving it!
6x6x.250 square tubing with misc. crossbraces that bolt on. First pic is set up for subframes. Put the car in the jig with the tires in the big c channels. Level it, cut frame, intstall new subframe withe the wheels/tires and weld away. Wheel base stays the same, no guessing. Secondpic is on engine stands for welding frames. Best thing about this setup is I can take it apart and stack it next to my garage...
The tables are really nice to work on however I like the open style. Preferably on that has a perimeter and you can tack cross braces in for the application you are working on. Also think ahead and make it bolt together - for the hobbyist it is the only way. Then you can knock it apart and store it out of the way. FWIW
Here's mine. It is built with 2 X 3 3/16 wall. I made it 12' long and 40" wide. I think the width is right, but if I had to do it over again I would make it shorter. Like 8' or so.
Had some 10 in beams leveled on a huge horozontal mill and put 2x2x.250 tubes on 10 in centers on them. Have A frame dementions drawn out on it. Little beam in front is for a hydrolic jack to straighten stuff chained to the table.
Thanks guys,this stuff is great.I had some ideas but now I have to change them.You guys made some good points. fitzee
I found an old alignment rack for $100. Poured concrete pads and leveled the whole thing up. Works pretty good but it is set up outside the shop so it's only good about 9 months a year.
[ QUOTE ] Here's mine. It is built with 2 X 3 3/16 wall. I made it 12' long and 40" wide. I think the width is right, but if I had to do it over again I would make it shorter. Like 8' or so. [/ QUOTE ] Haystack..THAT is almost identical to my old frame jig but smaller tubing..nice job!
all great ideas. i had thought a while back about building something real similar to what Killer posted. i was gonna weld it all though. i like the bolt together idea. i also like how he attached it to two engine stands to rotate it. smart man. anyone around here want to loan me ther jig for a year or so?? i just don't have the time or money to build one right now. too many projects.. i will need one for two different frames before too long. good post. thanks all...
[ QUOTE ] I'm building mine from an Evinrude boat trailer I bought at an auction for $50.00 (w/boat..gave that away)..The trailer is really HD..built from 8" I-beam about 20 feet long. I-beam crossmembers, too. I think I'm going to leave the axle on it (it's out of the way) so I have a way of moving it out of my shop when not in use. I'll build retractable legs so I can pull 'em up when moving it around. Years ago I built a jig for stock cars and used 6X6 tubing..about .083 thick...4" channel for crossmembers...nice and stable but forget about moving it! [/ QUOTE ] Two things...First, I just decided that if I'm going to keep the wheels on my frame jig, I'm going to put a removable tongue and hitch on it and RENT it out to local rodders who need a jig..what would you pay for a rental jig...does $50.00 a week sound fair? Second...I remember hearing (years ago) that stock car chassis builder C.J. Rayburn built his cars on a jig made of RAILROAD TIES!!! I guess that would be heavy enough to be stable and the chassis doesn't know, or care, what the jig is made from..
Don't call me whacky, I already know that. Wife calls me that and worse (when I bring home another old car). But--------What if one was to use an old chassis, like maybe a Ford Ranger, stripped down to frame and wheels/axles. Prop it up level, add some straight stringers on top for your needs, maybe clamped even, could be changed each time you needed to use it for a different project. And with wheels still on it, wheel it outdoors, throw a tarp over it and let it sit till next time! perley
I've seen some school bus frames and perhaps motorhome frame that would work(if cut off around the firewall area) in the same manner as oldrodder43's idea. 54chop
What are the key important things to have with a Jig besides being level and true? Very interesting thread to me as im debating the build
i'm not sure if i ever posted pics of this but here is as good a place as any. GMgrunt and i built this past winter for our pal Denny Lesky at the Ionia Hot Rod Shop. Jeff did all the presision work and i did most of the torch and grinding work. we lost count of how much time we had into it but we had a ball doin it and it was for one of the nicest and most talented guys i've ever known so neither of us minded one bit. besides, it's not like we each have a half dozen of our own projects we shoulda been working on instead . LOL as you can see we got just a tad bit carrier away. all the steel we sourced from Denny's stash or the local scrap yard. we added a detachable axle and tungue so it could be moved around or out of Denny's tiny shop or even hauled to car shows to display their wares. last i heard it was being used to restore the chassis for some old car that will be displayed at Pebble Beach or something. have'nt been there in a while, i need to make a visit real soon. OH YEAH. the white walls are the old white letter tires that were on the axle already. we just ground down the side walls just like we learned on a HAMB tech post from the past. enjoy... the "stations" are all bolt on and these particular ones are designed to fit 32 Ford chassis. we started another set of stations for 33/34 frames but left them for Denny to finish when he gets time to build a 33/34 chassis. universal "stations" could be built or the can be removed and replaced with a plate of steel or plywood and it would make about the worlds heaviest dinner table . Jeff Me
Heading to the local metal supply store this morning to pick up some tubing. Spent the last 2-3 weeks scratching my head trying to work out how to box my '30 frame without turning it into a banana and think I will bite the bullet and build a jig this weekend. Will post what I come up with. Will likely be aiming for something close to this... but shorter, like 8' or so!
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