Technical Rebel Wire Harness diagrams and wiring info

Instead of making a bunch of jumpers from that 12 ga wire, I’m thinking of using a bus bar like this one.

 

That buss bar looks like a good choice; guess I'm not used to thinking about modern stuff.

 

I used some sampled from work T&B buss bars on my car. They come with jumpers. One is gauge power, the other is gauge lights.

 

Ok, I think I'm aligned with your requests here. I have my 39 wired to the stock IGN switch and starter button. As much as I despise relays I did need one from the starter button to the solenoid trigger post. I'm using a Mallory dual point, 6V NOS Holthouse coil and a NORS solenoid. I'll be there in a little while and take some pictures how we did it. I also used the stock light switch in the center of the column, the wires below using modern weather proof connectors (hidden inside the frame channel). I'll check back when I get there, maybe we need to DM some pics and clarify what you need. I'm using a Rebel 8 circuit, mid 40s 59A flatty, 12V, Powermaster alternator.

 

Ok, for all who are following this heres some of what I did, the effort being vintage wherever possible. Used the gennie ign switch which gives power to an ign and main panel circuits.
From this..


To this

For lights I used the original "acorn" light switch at the bottom of the steering box. Modern weather tight connectors are hidden in the frame.




And it works like an original in the center of the column.

The starter button completes a ground to a relay that sends juice to the solenoid. You can see the relay behind.

That tickles this NORS Filko solenoid. The logo won me over

Not sure how much of this helps but I kept it basic. Got a radio and heater, and the rest is easily managed by an 8 circuit. Rebel is one of my best decisions on this car. No bs...

 

help me understand why the red wire from this turn signal lever is connected to the brake light switch?

 

@tarheelrodr ,
The turn signal and brake light use the same rear bulb/filament.
You will want the bulb to serve one purpose or the other, at any given time, so the two purposes are controlled by the 'red' wire.
Does that help?

 

The turn signal switch is complex, but I dislike that this makes it a "black box" rather than explain it.

Red wire from the brake light switch feeds both rear bulbs when the brake switch is pressed AND the turn signal switch is neutral. Simple. This has no affect to the front bulbs.
However, when the turn signal switch is moved to a turn position (left or right), this path is disconnected for that side only. The other side still is connected. This powers the side not selected the same way.
The side selected is now powered thru the flasher unit and provides power to the rear bulb and the front bulb. The current from both bulbs makes the flasher open and close to 'flash' both bulbs.

This switch also has the Hazard pull knob (called a stop signal position), which is why there are 2 wires from the flasher to the switch.
Not sure if it's left and right, or 2 light/4 light, but it's probably the latter. You could check this with an ohmmeter.

 

Ah yes, that makes sense. Duh. I must have been thinking about tail light was used for turn.

So let’s say I am turning left and turn signal lever down, then hit the brake pedal, what allows left turn signal flasher to keep flashing that bulb, overriding the brake switch trying to light same bulb?

fyi, I’m using duolamps from a 40 ford pickup on the rear.

 

Left turn
Keeps the same brake feed to right rear light.
Disconnects left brake circuit and gets flasher signal to left rear and left front bulb.

 

Oh I thought the pull knob was for park/tail lights. I don’t have a hazard flasher in my harness. Maybe I’ll find another turn signal without it.

Yep it’s 4 light. Checked with ohmmeter.

 

The diagram shows a 3 prong flasher. The second wire to the switch (from the "P" (pilot) terminal on the flasher) is for the indicator bulb inside the switch not the 4 ways.

You don't need a second flasher; that signal switch uses the same flasher for both functions.

 

Excellent, got it. Thanks RichB and RodStRace. Much appreciated.

now on to yet another question, headlight circuit. It’s 30a from fuse panel but I just checked specs on my Pollak 3 position headlight switch, it's rated at 15a and no idea what the ValuCraft floor dimmer switch is rated.

My original plan was to use 3 position switch that works like this: switch is normally off, 1st pull to turn on park/tail/gauge lights and then headlights with 2nd pull.

Looks like now I’ll need more relays or 30a headlight switch with a relay for dimmer.

 

You will get a ton of various answers. So let's look at the actual circuit.

12volt battery
Constant power to circuit (not going through ignition or other switches)
Fuse
Headlight switch
Dimmer switch
Headlights

The load is going to be the wiring between all of this and the lights. What do they require?
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/difference-in-amp-draw.1182866/
Guess here is about 5 amps each. 10 amps for the pair, plus some resistance in the circuit (maybe an amp) plus a bit for initial startup. Give it 15 amps as a nice round guess. Now you want the fuse/switch/dimmer to be able to handle the load and not overheat. A short is going to be much higher than the normal draw.
So the 30a fuse is good, the 15a switch is right at the guess. I'd imagine that all vintage dimmer switches were designed and built to handle this. Exceptions would be dimmers that controlled relays. The size of the terminals should tell you.
You can see why a poor connection or high resistance ground can bump this up, so make sure everything is done well.

 

Power in to headlight switch.
Out to dash lights
Out to tailights
Out to park lights
Out to dimmer switch.

Dimmer switch out to high beam relay.
Second power in from fuse panel to relay.
Power out of relay to high beams.

Dimmer switch out to low beam relay.
Share second power in from fuse panel to relay.
Power out of relay to low beams.

 

Forgot I bought a headlight relay and it came with diagram that looks doable.

 

I've used regular old parts store fused headlight switches for years; no relays or extras.

 

i like that option even better. I’ll have to look on classified posts for one.

 

A stronger headlight switch can simplify your wiring. The one shown should work with conventional seal beams. With halogen bulbs it may not be strong enough.

 

Upgrade that 10-amp glass fuse to 30 amp. I just blew out one. My Rebel Wire fuse box has a 30-amp bayonet fuse for the headlights, so obviously the 10-amp fuse on top of the switch isn't up to the current load.

 

do you have a part number for this switch?

@pprather, using sealed beams for headlights.

I found one on eBay and one that is a Painless product but is a 15a rated one.. Is the Painless one any good and like Osage Orange suggests can I put a 30a fuse in it?

 

This is a GM style switch and socket. It is designed for dual seal beam bulbs, like tri five cars. I believe it has a built in 28 amp circuit breaker.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...od-Headlight-Switch-Pigtail,373834.html?gQT=1

It should work well for your application.

Unlike a fused switch, which will leave you in the dark if blown, the internal circuit breaker will reset.

 

That is a sfe30 amp fuse; switch came with it. I would be suspicious of a headlight switch that came with a lesser fuse.

 

GP Sorenson LS10

 

Those GM headlight switches that Phil @pprather showed work good if you have the room or need the added features for dash light dimming and dome light control. Get a pre '68 switch if you want to run the parking lights separately; the later switches have the park lights stay on when switched to headlights. Note the extra terminal on the top switch. Be aware you need two power leads; one for the headlights and another for the tail & gauge lights. Unless you buy from a street rod shop; you will have to figure out a bezel and switch shaft on your own.

 

I think I have the room behind the dash of my 34 ford pickup but I’ll have to look. I don’t need dash dimmer or dome light function.

 

Well I decided to go with a Ron Francis switch. It doesn’t have dash light dimming feature or dome light control and that’s fine. It can handle the 30a power. No relay. Builtin headlight dimmer.

 

Just be sure to mount it in a handy location as you will be reaching for the switch, in the dark, to change from low beam to high beam, etc.

 

Quick question on routing alternator charge wire. In an effort to have a clean looking engine compartment is it ok or safe to run the charge wire thru the cab and back out in route to battery mounted on frame rail under passenger seat?

in other words from powergen alternate down left side of engine thru hole in firewall into the cab, then along top of firewall then back out of hole in firewall on pass side, down and over, take same path as positive battery cable to battery terminal.

 

Probably safe enough physically. Make certain the charge wire is large enough, gauge wise, for the length. I would use nothing smaller than a 6 ga.

Ben