Technical Ospho for headers or best exhaust for early Dart

Anyone ever use Ospho on headers?
I bought some cheap headers like $20 they are rusty. I’m modifying to fit my Dart, if they work sometime I’ll buy a new set or a kit and redo. In the meantime I’d like to make these last a year or two.
Thanks
Dan

 

Dan..ive had rusty looking headers like those sand blasted and they looked new. What paint to use is a different problem.

 

Thanks
I’m lazy snd was looking for easy.I guess I could dig out the blaster. I’ll just use some Rustoleum High Temp paint that I have laying around.
Dan

 

Dan, Ive not used Ospho on headers but I have soaked many a rusty old parts in a citric acid bath. Its about the easiest method Ive found to strip rust. You can buy it on Amazon cheap.

 

I'd have some questions concerning the Ospho and header temps. At minimum, it sounds like a waste of time, I'd think the Ospho would just burn off.

In my experience, the point where the 4 tubes come together to join the collector is the 1st place to have a problem. Paint doesn't help much there, but I would just paint the entire header with the high temp paint and hope for the best.

 

While I agree with Gene, I'd say the first problem area, especially A Body headers is the low area that has a bend and gets scrapes. It's already dinged. Depending on the mileage over that year, I'd clean them up, spray some high temp and call it done.
When I did mine, that side was difficult. Up on a hoist, engine tilted to the right and header and steering box loose to get everything in and aligned. You will question redoing in a year!

 

It didn’t take year, already questioning my thinking. I bought 2 passenger side and one drivers side headers for like $20. You get what you pay for. I believe they’re for a 67 and up A Body. I thought the drivers side would fit -nope. I’m modifying to fit and will end up with a Tri y, shorty hybrid. They’ll be better than stock manifolds (maybe) for flow. I would love to go with TTI conventional or Hooker fenderwell headers but at $1000 that will be down the road project. I’ve had the engine in out several times. Getting pretty good at it.
Dan

 

I had the engine in and tried (and succeeded) to install the headers. Various reasons why, not important.
After that experience I would seriously consider laying the header in, then dropping in the engine.
Doubly so if fit isn't confirmed and engine bay isn't fully detailed.

 

I don’t how in world I would install a header with the engine in place. I think that would require some kind of super patience. When I get them finished I’d like your opinions and thoughts.
Thanks
Dan

 

I would also make sure to install a known good (not new warrantied, KNOWN GOOD) starter.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/70s-style-street-machines.1316166/page-2#post-15229566
I sure hope it's a Non-HAMB a body, not the early one in your avatar. Those double the fit issues. I haven't done one, but have been around a couple.
You know that "we will laugh about this later"? Those guys weren't laughing.
The only one as bad or worse was a friend who had 180 degree headers on his 68 Mustang with a 390.

 

I never treated headers with Ospho but don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Ospho is basically phosphoric acid and when applied to Iron Oxide (rust) chemically converts the surface to Iron Phosphate which is a very thin rust/corrosion layer that is rust resistant not rust proof. It works well as a primer. If its temporarily I’d Ospho (follow directions) the headers and follow up with hi temp paint of choice. As mentioned citric acid will remove the rust, is cheap and also forms a gray phosphate layer that could be painted also. I’ve never tried it and am somewhat skeptical but supposedly coating freshly sand blasted headers with ATF (automatic trans fluid) and then heating to engine temps forms a rust resistant coating. Somewhere on the HAMB there is a thread about it.

 

Yep it’s the one in avatar, things are a wee bit tight. It’s not going to be a show car it will be an everything car, gravel, snow, mud, pavement. When I visited Mark @Moriarity and I explained I was almost two miles from pavement on gravel, he got kind of green looking. Said something about Dukes of Hazard after I talked about getting sideways in the gravel.
Dan

 

I’ve had a sandblaster for over forty years for one reason, it’s the best way to deal with rust.
When you modify the headers try making the mods to that cylinder slip-fit, I have been using slip-fit headers on my bbm since the mid eighties and what’s great about them is you can pull two tubes off and drop the starter, they are easy on and off, also they don’t leak with an exhaust after them.

 

I’ve got a sandblaster but what a PIA, plus I’m a little worried about making holes, the headers were18 ga but might be more like 20 ga now
Dan

 

I would rather know about rust holes before I spent time fitting and modifying them…

 

I have had a lot of success with VHT high temp paint, follow the instructions exactly and it turns out really nice and durable, you would have to blast them first though.

 

I’m using these old headers for a mock up and pattern, if they last a year I’ll be happy. In a year I plan on going through the engine freshen it up at minimum add a performance cam for sure maybe higher CR if I need new pistons are needed. At that time I’ll probably build a set. Most likely SS I built an SS header for my OT car and like how it turned out, should last for a long time.
Thanks for all the input.
@oldiron 440 I like the idea of the slip fit.
Dan

 

One of the nice things about having slip fit headers is you can bake the parts in the oven after you use VHT on them. I’ve been using silver on my Mopar for over thirty five years because I like being able to see any oil leakage on them. The factory engine color of my 289 was black but with all the black and aluminum on it I’m going to try blue on the headers with the VHT primer.

 

Heating any Phosphoric Acid product can produce toxic gasses, fire, and other accelerated chemical reactions.

I would recommend that you do not do this.

Glass bead blasting them is far safer, and won't destroy them, so long as you do not go nuts doing it.

 

Thanks, I wondered about reaction with heat.
Dan

 

The '64 to'66 MoPar A bodies with a 273 had some pretty unique exhaust manifolds. Especially on the driver's side as I recall. The V/8s were a fairly snug fit between the inner fender panels. Somewhere I got the impression that the underhood dimensions were the same as the '62 and earlier Valiant and Lancer which were only offered with the slant 6.

 

Most consider the early As to break down to pre-66 and 67-up.
The very early ones have a few things that are even tighter (heater box).
62 Lancer

The driver's side is tight due to steering. V8 Headers are also an issue with heating the brake master, especially fenderwell headers.
https://classiccars.com/listings/view/1323239/1963-dodge-dart-for-sale-in-lenexa-kansas-66215

 

As you can see it’s a very tight fit. The fabbed manifold pics I got from a Mopar site. I thought about using a 92 Dakota manifold but it would require Some grinding on the steering column tube and manifold and a mini starter. I may re-examine using the manifold just cut a couple inches off the tube and get a mini starter The manifold has a 2-1/8 outlet.
Dan

 

The manifolds for the 273 are indeed unique also somewhat rare and pricey, not sure but I believe they are pretty restrictive also.

Dan

 

Now Don't hate me, not my idea but, but, I heard of a lazy stop gap that will last a while, not forever but.
After the Install buy a couple cans of Permatex aluminized Anti-Sieze compound.
Go to town on them. In time may or may not,, need touch-up.

 

Yeah. But quite unrestrictive for getting at the spark plugs!

 

Might have to try I know a pint will paint a barn lol
Dan

 

I would actually try some if they weren’t 300 to 400 a set.
Dan

 

I haven’t tried it, yet, but have read on some mopar sites about graphite paint on manifolds. Some guys really talk it up. They have to be cleaned first.

 

I really hate headers on any A body Mopars! Always dragging the ground, they are noisy and they leak and they are a pain in the ass to install. I run 340's in most of my A bodies with HP cast iron manifolds and dual 2.25" exhaust including in my '62 Lancer 4dr. It uses '64-'66 V8 motor mounts, slight bend in the brake line from master cylinder, move the battery box forward an inch or two and eliminate the heater box. Easy peasy. All factory parts.

Dave