On my '54 I bought 6' sticks and bent them to fit. I also bought the mounting clips but they just have little prongs that stick into the material. I'd like to glue these in. I tried 3M Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive on one and it didn't work so well. What do you guys use? Here's the backside.......
Windshield urethane works well, I've always drilled a few holes in the center of the channels in a few spots and used 1/8" pop rivets
Yep, 3M black urethane windshield stuff. Use masking tape and the window itself to hold it in while the stuff dries. I used a small screw at the very bottom of each end, but probably didn’t need them.
I second drilling a small hole and pop rivet them in. If you have them just right when you put the window up it will conform and you will need nothing except at the ends to lock it in place. Ever tried to get urethane glue off anything?
LLoyd to the red phone ... Years ago, I did the pop rivet program. The head protruded far enough to crack the glass in a week. I use countersunk screws now. I punch the holes, not drill them ...
Won’t take many rivets, one every 5”. I’ve used small screws too but I think the rivet idea is better. It’s hard to screw the small screws in place. Much easier to just pop a rivet. I don’t see those causing too much headache. The heads are flush.
The red phone is broke, the white phone is the only one working man lol, I do the same as already stated, if I do need adhesive, I use urethane, but generally I just use mechanical fasteners. The channel comes in assorted widths, if it isn't fitting snug, you probably needed a wider size. But the windshield urethane will hold it until the cows come home. Heaven forbid you ever need to replace it lmao! Maybe just a dot of urethane in strategic places to hold it in.
The tiny screws I used got buried in the fuzz and barely noticeable. Tring to find the tiny hole after you set the drill down isn't easy. Gary
I like the pop rivit idea but my rivit gun won't reach all the way down inside the channel. Does someone make a longer, thin head that'll reach in there?
Use a spacer. Like a small socket. I worked on a Pierce Arrow, had to use slotted screws to screw on the fuzzies. Small little slottted screws in little holes. Fun, fun. Doing the same thing with a 38 Chevy sedan now. With phillipscrews. And painting them black when I`m done. I buy all my glass wiskers and channel from Metro Molded Products out of Minnesota. Buy an air riveter.
Black weatherstrip adhesive will work if done correctly. It will hold window channel in a 55 chevy door. I know.
I riveted the channels in my 51' like 23 years ago, no cracked glass. If you have a decent rivet gun like a Malco, you can set the tension on it and get it super tight. Use steel rivets and you can get it as tight as you want. It will suck up into the channel material and not even be that noticeable. I've done probably 3-4 cars like that with no issues. What I like about riveting, you can always drill em out if you need to. Once you glue em in, if you need to take it out it can be a gooey mess! I've always put a couple dabs of adhesive and the rest rivets.
I've used pop rivets at various places and also tiny SS #4x1/4" flathead phillips screws too. Both worked, but the screws are easier to install.
I use #4 flat head screws. One in each 'corner' one on each side near bottom. Holds the rigid channel solid. Put in channel, drill hole thru channel into steel trough, install screw. Heads embed in fabric, no problem with breaking the glass.
From an old glass installer, the rivets are not a good solution as the felt will wear down over time and allow the edge of the glass to hit them (BROKEN GLASS). In my opinion clean the old channel (run)out and form the new channel to fit properly, put some black 3M adhesive on the run, install the channel, run the window all the way up, check for proper fit, the install a couple of screws or rivets at the very bottom, front and rear, and make sure that you don't let the glass run over them as it comes down. Some of the older models have a clip at the bottom that the channel will lock in. A test fit with the window rolled up ensures that you get a good fit. I also do not like the fiber backed channel as it normally absorbs water, use a rubber backed channel if you can get it. It is more expensive but will also last longer.
What you have there, the cloth backed, that's why the glue won't bond. Screws, rivets, yeah maybe. But this just in from the "where were ya when I needed ya" dept, body tape (good quality black duct tape). DO NOT USE GORILLA TAPE. Too much glue, comes loose in the heat. Anyways, tape the back side in strategic areas 1st, then use your chosen glue. Urethane is badass but you're done, better hope it never has to come out. The ultimate success will be how well the actual glass lives in the channel. @Lloyd's paint & glass will likely concur. It may "hide" in the channel but best if it hits all the way. Scuff the shiney side of that body tape and clean with alky, apply your 3M, should last a long long time. Bottom screws will carry the vertical load. If you could clip it that's the best all around but I get it. Been there...
Im a recent convert to gorilla glue. That stuff seems to stick everything and its relatively slow setting, so you get a chance to move stuff about to get the position right.
How about using this super glue combined with these #4 x 1/4" phillips screws? The super glue instructions say it'll work on both cloth and steel. JB Weld super glue #4 x 1/4" sheet metal screws
Mine were originally stapled in. When I took them out I kept them. I laid the new one next to the old ones and drilled holes to match. I used needle nose pliers to roll over the staples like the original. If I needed more I made them from standard staples. Took a lot of time
But not channels? This method is how I do mldgs and door edges. Trick, I use thin stainless tig wire or safety wire. On one job I heated the tough ones to melt them below the fuzz. Pain in the ass but got thru it.
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