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Hot Rods Replacing the floor and wood in a 1936 Buick

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Elden Stenberg, Mar 31, 2022.

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  1. Elden Stenberg
    Joined: Aug 3, 2011
    Posts: 7

    Elden Stenberg
    Member
    from Duluth, MN

    I have the above car that needs the above done to it!
    Was a thread in 2011 on the above subject.
    I wonder how it worked out or if any changes would be done now?
    Will be using a 472 (455) Buick engine, a beefed 700R4 trans and a 9" Ford rear.
    Thanks
     
  2. How's the rest of the wood in the car ??
    The A pillers , B pillers rear inner fenders are all part of the floor as are the rocker panels
     
  3. Here is a new steel.sub frame for my 33 coupe
    The new sub frame for mounting rear fender wells
    You can see where the grey rocker attaches to the new sub frame .
    I have done a few of these wood cars ,ton of work but well worth it . 20220210_191331.jpg 20220208_210228.jpg 20220210_170443.jpg 20220210_183822.jpg 20220227_115119.jpg
     
    anothercarguy likes this.
  4. Elden Stenberg
    Joined: Aug 3, 2011
    Posts: 7

    Elden Stenberg
    Member
    from Duluth, MN

  5. Elden Stenberg
    Joined: Aug 3, 2011
    Posts: 7

    Elden Stenberg
    Member
    from Duluth, MN

    Thanks for the reply!
    So if I have this correct in my mind, what you fab'd, was a steel sub-frame that replaces the wood (my wood is fine but) between the stock Chevy frame and the body?
    I hate to remove the body from frame, as it is a big 4 door! Maybe I can just raise it a few inches?
    Others have told me to leave the wood alone, but with a Stage 1 455 Buick that has 500 hp and 550 torque, the thing will come apart!
    With the 205 hp 1976 smog 455 that was in it, I am getting stress cracks in the front pillar (front of the door to the roof!
    I fab'd a structure behind the fire-wall (which I removed) to tie in both sides of the body to the frame.
    This should help!
    Any thoughts?
    Thanks
     
  6. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,336

    alchemy
    Member

    Did you replace the firewall with something at least as strong? Fordors are kinda wiggly, with lots of openings and not as much holding the body square. If you didn't want to replace the complete structure, adding some bracing to the existing couldn't hurt. If it was done inside the body you could probably leave it on the frame, but there might be better braces that would go under the flooring. I've never messed with one of those Buicks, but I know how other old cars with some wood structure are put together.
     
  7. Elden Stenberg
    Joined: Aug 3, 2011
    Posts: 7

    Elden Stenberg
    Member
    from Duluth, MN

  8. Elden Stenberg
    Joined: Aug 3, 2011
    Posts: 7

    Elden Stenberg
    Member
    from Duluth, MN

    Hi Again:
    I drilled out all the spot welds that held in the old firewall (was like Swiss cheese) and had a new one fabricated (thicker than the old). Got to install it! Probably plug weld it in or?
    When you buy a rod you never know why the guy sold it until you take it apart! UGH!
    The original guy put in bucket seats and come to find out that the bench seat was attached to the center door posts (suicide rear doors) to give added strength! Just like you said!
    Got to do the steel sub frame thing and make strong gussets to support the center posts, cowl, rear sheet metal, etc.
    Also have to put in the front bench seat back in.
    What gage for the floor?
    Thanks, Elden
     
  9. Using 18g for the floor , used 1 1/2 x 4 tubing for sub frame .
     
  10. Elden Stenberg
    Joined: Aug 3, 2011
    Posts: 7

    Elden Stenberg
    Member
    from Duluth, MN

    Thanks again!
    Elden
     

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