1930s Era Champ Car - new project

More little things done.
The cowl flange is permanently installed.
I made a lip on the cowl to hold the rear of the hood.
Started on a gas pedal mount. I think I can make something to bolt to the trans and "float" above the floor.

 

I like what you are doing very much. I did my time as a panelbeater (bodyman) but wished I'd got into coach building (motor body building it was called over here) to do this type of work. I spent 40 years driving trucks instead.
The dash looks good but would another 1/4" lopped off the bottom edge and finished with a piece of round welded to it be helpful when legs come into contact? For example when hitting road humps or when exiting in a hurry.

 

Thank you spanners. That round edge is a good idea. I wish I had known what the final trimmed configuration would be before I engine turned the dash panel. I do not know how I could weld something on now without upsetting the look of the engine turning.
I did round over the bottom edge to reduce the risk of slicing myself on it. Whenever I do a panel I deburr the edges. I have suffered enough skinned knuckles and forearms in the past from slipped wrenches, etc. that I do have an aversion to edges and corners

 

Have you considered using a padded leather tube over the edge like they use around the edge of an open cockpit aircraft?

 

I will consider that. I'll look into how they addressed that issue back when.

 

I think you are on the right track. Check out the cockpit shots on this 1930 Hudson Indy Champ Car.

1930 Hudson Indy Race Car for Sale | ClassicCars.com | CC-1071070

 

HUPP COMET NUMBER 4 INDY CAR

Hupp Comet Number 4 Indy Car - Revivaler

 

I'm confused.
I need help.
In virtually all of the champ and sprint car pics I've seen there is no visible means of fastening the nosepiece to the frame. Clearly there was an effort made to hide the fasteners and keep the front clean visually and aerodynamically.
I have not decided how to fasten the nose, but I don't want to have visible fasteners. Moreover I want the nose and hood lines to match up so the rear edge of the nose needs to be firmly attached to the radiator hoop to match the front edge of the hood. Any suggestions are welcomed. Here's the area I'm talking about. The radiator mounting hoop is where the two will meet. I was going to add a flange to the rear of the hoop like the one on the front of the firewall. I just need a way to fasten the nosepiece without visible fasteners and make it match the hood lines.




[EDIT - 15 min. later: Maybe an extension off the back edge of the nosepiece with an inset flange? Then the hood front can lay on the inset flange? Then underneath it all do the hoop flange to hold the nosepiece inset with countersunk fasteners??]

 

Here is a thought. Slot the hoop from the front. maybe a keyhole or a T-Slot. Maybe 2 on a side. Weld threaded studs on the inside of the nose piece. You can then slide the threaded studs into the slots. Fasten with a nut, washer, and lock washer or use a small castle nut and pin for vibration sake. You can use Zeus fasteners on the underside. PIA I know because of experience.

Another Idea is to put a interlocking flange on to of the hoop. One half on the hoop, one on the nose piece. Make one position adjustable for and aft. Slide flange halves together. Once flanges are interlocked fasten underside with Zeus fasteners.
Just my 2 bits.

 

Thanks HJ. I am still thinking this through but I am leaning toward adding a flange off the back of the hoop and another offset one off the nose and nesting the hood down on the nose. The nose will be held down with countersunk screws.
Secure the hood with leather straps and maybe a tube across the bottom edge of the hood for rigidity.

 

Or you could do that....

 

I made the plate that will support the gas pedal. It is pretty stout so I can put the full force of my weight on it without fear of deflection. It is held in place by four studs - three in the servo cover and one coming up from the oil pan.

I'm thinking of cable actuated throttles. I once had a bad experience when a solid rod bound up and locked the throttles open.

 

That “1930” race car looks more like a 1950. The next one you posted for 1932 looks like a 1932. Not your fault but messed up. Love the 32

 

Yes, that is a good example of upholstery. I love the aged leather look too. I think I'll add a steering wheel pad too, like that one.
Boy, somebody sure went nutz with an electric drill with that one.
I wonder if that red tank is what looks to be a fuel tank and was tacked on just to fire it up and do parade laps. Looks kinda sketchy down outside the chassis.

True, but some of those cars from the '30s survived to race post WWII. There are some things that look like '30s - no roll bar protection - and there are some things - the USAC sticker - that are definitely of the '50s.
My example will be a replica of a car that may have been built in the '30s but survived with updates to have been raced into the '50s. Of course a few things will be totally out of context, like the 3-speed transmission and a starter motor and fuel pump, etc, all in the interest of functionality over historic accuracy.

 

More work on the accelerator pedal. The mounting plate is 3/16" thick and the heel cup is .102" thick. The top of the heel cup will get rolled backward to prevent abrasion. A bushing will be installed near the instep to hold the pedal. Some of the other protuberances on the mounting plate are for throttle stop, cable attachment and return spring, if needed. If not they will get cut off for further weight reduction.

 

Maybe some acorn nuts on the bracket so your boot doesn't get caught up on the protruding bolts in case of speedy exit?
Sorry, I've got a mate who built a salt car and was very particular about egress from the racecar especially when doing the blindfold exit for scrutineering that's why I look for that type of thing.

 

Yes spanners, I had planned on acorn nuts on the bracket, but thanks for reminding me.

 

Hi FTF.Could you use button head bolts instead of the studs and nuts.Less protusion into the shoe space,and no chance of hooking a shoe on a fast exit.Not exactly era perfect,but not really noticeable.
Loving the build.And thanks again for starting this thread.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Hi wood,
Yes, I may use button heads instead, especially on the one close to my foot. Or I may cut the studs down a little more to shorten the intrusion.
The "band adjust" post near my ankle will get a rubber cap on it.

 

Here's the preliminary gas pedal pattern. The final one needs to include a cable anchor, return loop, return spring, stainless spoon, and adjustable throttle stop.

 

I took four days off to take two drag cars to the Rock-N-Race nostalgia event at Dragway 42 in West Salem Ohio. I drove my "Last Logghe Altered" and my neighbor buddy George drove my roadster pickup. He is a relative newcomer to this sport; a few years back I offered him a ride in this aging and unused RPU.
He learned well.
He ran in four races over the weekend - got two wins and a runner-up!
Runner-up'd in a Heads Up eliminator (against a seven second blown AA/A).
Won Hot Rod 1 Eliminator!
Won Nostalgia Altered Eliminator! (including beating me in the semi finals)
What fun!

Last night a friend gave me a hand brake lever from an old car or farm implement that I will repurpose into an outside brake handle on the champ car, after I drill it full of lightening holes. Its heavy.

 

No picture of the brake lever?

 

All the ratchet locking hardware will be removed and a new mounting pad will likely be needed. Depending on how I set it up to talk to the master cylinder and foot brake pedal I may have the pivot on the end and the actuator rod on the central hole.

 

Nice piece of vintage hardware. Don't go crazy making it light, it has a nice manly mass to it.

 

OK. I may put off lightening it until I see if it will need any offset bends in it to clear stuff.

After a trip through the de-rustification tank and some sandpaper here is what it looks like. It is a GM part. Are there any GM parts gurus that can identify make and model?

 

This looks pretty darn close

41-46 Chevy Truck Emergency Brake Handle | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)

 

B'golly, that's it.
Thanks HJ
It will even be era correct.

 

May I suggest when and if it comes time for lightning holes. How about tapered slots that follow the the taper of the lever strategically located in the lever. Maybe the length 3x the width. Just my 2 bits.

 

HJ, not sure I have the technical capability to do that, but I agree it would look cool. I don't want to lighten it now and then find out I have to heat and bend through a lightening hole. That would not look "right".

 

Gas pedal pattern V 2.0
As configured the cable will stroke as much as 3.5"
The Hitachi carb linkage travels 1.5" from idle to WOT, so plenty of cable travel that can be fine tuned with a bell crank if need be.