Working on a mostly stock SBF for my 1936 Ford truck project. I have a different pair of stock heads that are supposed to flow better than the E7's currently on it. The performance intake manifold has a port size of 2" x 1.2" which seems to be the standard size for most performance manifolds. These heads have intake ports that measure 1.870" x 1.160" and most of the stock gaskets come with 1.96" x 1.16" openings. Not planning on doing any port work on the heads as everything I read says the small gain isnt worth the effort and to just buy aftermarket aluminum heads if your chasing hp. My question is if its worth taking the time to port match the heads to the manifold and would it gain anything. Logic seems that you would want a smooth transition thru the entire runner, but the runner in the head is smaller. Port matching would basically create a smoother "funnel" at the gasket area as it transitions to the smaller head runner area. I am guessing the engine may be in the 275hp range when finished, so nothing crazy.
Probably not worth the time or the effort, but if you have a die grinder and some time on your hands, have at it.
Just be sure you don't put it on a dyno before and after your magic porting matching work...you might not like the results
So true, but it’s like guys who use SS brake springs, when the originals lasted for 50 years, it’s a “feel good” thing
I'd be tempted to make the openings in the intake manifold smaller and port match them to the heads. I'm sure that there's an epoxy for this.
Kinda what I figured. Maybe I will if I have some spare time. I dont see how making the ports in the intake smaller at the gasket area would do anything.
Not a "pro" head porter but......velocity of the fuel charge getting sucked into the chamber is as important as a big wide path for it get into the chamber too. 'Tumble' of the charge is important too. That's caused by the texture of the passages into the chamber .Not necessarily a slick/smooth surface. Anyway......there's a lot more to porting than the 'common-sense' approach of big/wide/slick passages. Strange but true. 6sally6
This article may be of help http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/mufp-0605-ford-mustang-cylinder-head-porting
I'd go with an intake with smaller ports to match the heads. The older Edelbrock F4B comes to mind. Joe
If it was opposite I’d leave it alone. But since it isn’t and if the heads are off I’d make everything match the manifold. You don’t need to go into the head much but that’s not a lot if your splitting all 4 sides. Go to Summit or Performance Parts and look up gaskets. For a few extra bucks you can get the correct ones or I would try trimming what you have. Anything you do will help it be mor efficient.
My guess is that you might see a 5 or a little more HP increase at very high rpm. I doubt if it would have any effect in the rpm range where you drive.
E7TE heads were the hot setup before the GT 40 heads and aftermarket. If they are the GT 40 P heads from an Explorer then make sure your exhaust will line up as the spark plug angles are different than any other head.. Common header interference issues with the plugs are a big draw back to those heads but they are good breathing factory heads. As far as port matching to the intake. Put the engine together and drive it the way it should be driven. Smiles per gallon and not miles per gallon.
You have to be careful with a SBF. I do believe Squirrel touches on this with his “dyno” comment. Example..... Edelbrock’s Torker 289 Intake It was a really good intake for 1960s heads. Now, people have ported the old Torkers for use with high flow heads and have had contrary results. They just do better out of the box, especially with the stock heads of the 1960s early 70s. I guess the tight ports helped with velocity. You can say the same about the SBF cam grinds of the period. (1960s early 70s) The grinds tended to be long on duration but lower on lift to match the heads of the period..... You take somebody that had the old Torker and a Crane Fireball in the 70s and they’ll talk about how great the combo was. Today, somebody building a big inch SBF stroker may poo-poo that combo.... Really it’s apples and oranges. The old set up worked. It’s obvious that these new stroked engines with “better” heads work. When you try to mix the old and the new is where you can run into trouble. That’s what I meant by..., You have to be careful with porting a SBF.
It wouldnt be either drawing. The second would be closer to it except the intake runner would be larger. Basically a minor "funnel" at the head. These are the non p version that where used for a couple of years that have the standard spark plug configuration.
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