Modified the radius rods today, setting the caster on the front axle required us to cut and bend the rods up about 6". We ended up cutting a "V" about 3/8" at the top down to nothing at the bottom, we didn't cut all the way through the bottom just heated it up and bent it.
Cut and bent left us with perfect area for weld, we chamfered the edges of both ends before bending them into place.
End result with about 6 1/2 degrees of caster in the front axle. I finally sourced an F1 box so we will be working on the steering next.
Disassembled the F1 box today and started work on getting it ready to fit in the frame, we decided to go with the new weld on flanges instead of using the Model A flange. This pic was after cutting off the F1 flanges with a porta-band.
A little time spent with a grinder and a belt sander, I'm not going to take it any further until I get the new flanges. Pretty happy with how it turned out.
"V'd" out the four flat spots on the pitman arm, started them with a hacksaw and finished with a triangle file, a lot easier than I thought it would be.
I got the F1 steering box flanges from Millworks Hotrod earlier this week, so we worked on getting the steering column mocked up today.
A little more shaping with the belt sander was needed on the steering box snout, I also V'd out the back of the flange for a deeper weld.
Here's what the final setup looks like, I haven't tacked the flange on yet as the body isn't 100% adjusted. The column is pretty close to the rear exhaust port so we may "massage" the column jacket to gain a little more clearance as the plan is to run lake style headers.
We ended up deciding that dropping the column 1 3/8" would be about right, as you can see we will be running most of the stock interior. Now that we've got the column in place we will be installing the trans crossmember and fitting the pedals and master cylinder.
Doing excellent work. Keep on keeping on. Are you going to box the inside where the w bone plate is on the frame?
Thanks, initially we weren't but the more I see it flex the more I want to box it, I've always liked the look of an unboxed frame but do realize there's no comparison in rigidity. Is it acceptable to just box sections? Or do you run in to possible weak spots for cracks to form?
I would box 1'' fore and aft of the plate you are connecting the bones to. That is what I am doing on mine. My footprint is smaller than yours.
Got the pedals mounted and bent around the steering column, brake pedal looks weird but that's because its just laying down, they're both the same distance away from the column.
The front side of the original crossmember will be cut out and a new lip welded on to accommodate for the master cylinder.
Actually she asked to "go up to the shop" when she woke up from her nap, mostly because she knows there's junk food up there to snack on, mom was out volunteering.
Well now, I’d say she’s got potential. I mean, she’s clearly interested in hot rods. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Excellent! My 40 year old daughter got started the same way... she's the gearhead of the 3. Her 2 brothers aren't nearly into it as she is. Her '68 455/4-speed Cutlass is her baby that she does all the work on!
Been a while since we've been in the shop, now that the weather has been decent we're building a cabin on our family's property but we got rained out today so we spent some time fitting the master cylinder and modifying the trans crossmember. The square represents the master cylinder and the arch is a 6in dia portion to be cut out.
As most of you know the F1 crossmember is taller than the A frame so we cut a V out of it and heated it up and bent it to match the frame. Where we left off for today, still some trimming to do on the ends and some filling to do at the old master cylinder hole.
The Jalopy Journal
