Hello Eric, like old wolf said, I have an sm420 in my 67 C10, its a cast iron bellhousing with the three bolt starter. The truck came with a 283. if you can find a donor vehichle, grab the z bar, and all associated linkage and flywheel/clutch/pressure plate of course or if buying new you could look for the parts for a 67 c10 283 4 speed. Hope this helps.
Thank you, I appreciate the info. I'm gonna try to see what I have that is compatible, but right now it's on hold cus I had to return the engine hoist that I borrowed. And I just noticed the intake manifold needs new gasket. It looks like gaps in manifold gasket area, so I'm going to pull the intake and make sure, also I need to replace a couple exhaust manifold (flange ) studs. Will update as am able. Thanks
You don't need a Z bar or any clutch linkage. Use the 6 cyl clutch fork and everything else will work exactly the same. in 55 thru 59 all the clutch linkage parts are the exact same for the 6 or V8
Hey all, I just got new set of intake gaskets as I noticed something looked off. So I'm going to tear down the intake remove the gaskets and install a fresh set just to be safe. Otherwise, I am looking to have to exhaust studs replaced on the left header as the look worn and I don't want anything to go wrong while installing exhaust once engine is ready to go in.
Replacing those studs now is a good move, with the manifolds right there in hand. What do you think is wrong with your intake gaskets?
Hey folks, I borrowed my neighbors hoist and engine stand again and have decided to tear down again, and have the block & heads sent out for a good going over. My question is, what is a fair and reasonable price as far as having the heads cleaned/surfaced? As well having the block honed if possible, or bored if necessary? Reason I am asking is that I saw some scratch marks at the bottom of the cylinder walls of 3 or 4 of the pistons and am not sure whats causing that to happen. So I am now thinking it may be best to send out the block and heads just to be safe. Still planning to put it all back together myself, for the experience of getting to know my engine inside and out. Can someone tell me what is too much to pay for this, as well as what is a reasonable and fair amount that a machine shop would charge? Thanks in advance.
**UPDATE** Dropped engine off at machine shop and the guy said he will clean it up, check everything and hone the cylinders for me and make sure the engine is prepped and ready to reassemble. Quoted price $1000.00 The down time will be 1 month he said. I told him what I want is to take it down to bare block, clean it up, hone the cylinders, whatever else it may need. Then reassemble with new bearings, lifters, pushrods, etc etc. I told him to keep an eye on the $$ tally & call me before he goes above the $1000.00 limit. (Which is only a starting point). He said no problem and gave me his business card. Now what to do... Hmm.......
Still waiting for machine shop to get back to me about my 283. Will update this as soon as I hear anything and find out when it will be ready to pick up. Hope everybody is doing well and being safe out there.
Heyyyyy!!! I just got off the phone with the machine shop, they got it all cleaned up nice n puurdy, now he says he's looking at what it needs and as soon as he figures it all out he will call me wuth price to do complete rebuild! Woohoo!! Can not wait!!
Same here, I will be excited to see how well it drives once it is finally installed and all set up. I know it is going to be considerably better than the I6. Not saying that I don't like my old 6, just that the 8 will give better results on the streets/highway.
Hotrod primer very clean engine. I like the plug wire routing and the low mount alternator. Did you fab the low alternator mount or buy it? If you bought it who is the supplier?
Hey all, got a question... is it possible to put a posi or limited slip in my rear diff? I'm thinking of this ahead of time since I will be driving through steep mountain terrain going home, as well as when winter hits again I am sure it will be much easier than an open diff with 1 wheel spinning. Thanks in advance
They were available for your differential, but are no longer available new. However, a locker from a 14 bolt GM rear is supposed to be a bolt-in deal, and will probably be much easier to find than a used one for an HO 72. Do a web search for "14 bolt locker in HO 72" and see what you can find for details on the swap.
Ok, however when I pulled the diff cover the other day for comparison, my diff is a 12 bolt. Does that matter? Thanks
It should not, apparently GM copied the differential dimensions when they designed the 14 bolt rear. You will have to do a search to get all the info, it's been a couple years since I looked into it, and my memory aint what it used to be.
Lol, I think we're all getting to where memory isnt what used to be. Anyway, another thing is that the lockers I do find are all 30 spline and wont match up to mine being (I believe, 16 or 19 spline??) I'd have to pull the axle and count again to be sure but I do know they are much thicker than a 30 spline or even a 28 spline and much fewer by count. I think that is going to be my biggest issue over all is spline count Meaning the axle splines btw
That could be an issue, there were some changes to the HO 72 around 1960, I believe, so some of the stuff that bolts onto those from the 14 bolt rear ends won't work on the older ones.
Thats what I thought. On a happier note, I do now have the illusive 4.11 R&P that is so saught after! I just have to pull my 4.56 and install the 4.11. Then we will see some improvement. Along with the freshened up 283, she's gonna move along quite nice I think!
I installed the entire pumpkin from a 1950 one ton in a 66 3/4 ton. Some 3/4 ton trucks had a No Spin differential. They have overrunning ratchets instead of clutches. I have two in my hoard one is a 66 and the other is a 1986.
That's cool. Yeah, I keep looking for a locker online, or a limited slip, or even posi/trutrac, but they all end up being wrong axle spline setup. I'm not 100% sure unless I pull the axle again and recount, but I think the axle spline for mine is a 16 or 19 count?? whatever the Ho72 originally came with, it's got thick splines on driveshaft as well as axles so I believe that's what it is supposed to be. If I am wrong, please forgive my mistake.
Guess I need to correct myself, I did not end up with the 4.11 as I had thought. Someone else beat me to it. Oh well, sucks to be me! Search continues I guess... Also am still trying to find out if I can either get a locker or post for my diff, or if there is a way to convert mine to a limited slip or something, IDK. Never done this before, so trying to get whatever info I can. Thanks in advance
Sitting here after my after dinner nap, I seem to recall that it may be possible to use the 14 bolt drive axles to mate up with the 14 bolt differential. Here is some information. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=536119&highlight=ho72+rebuild
Well, I picked up my manifolds today, brand new studs installed and ready to mount them as soon as I get my engine back from machine shop. Hope to hear from him maybe tomorrow or might have to call him. At least things are moving forward and soon will be able to return home. I miss Missoula and the mountains behind the house. (Can not wait)
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