Ive never done steel rivets before. Im assuming you have to get them cherry red before you hammer them?
Bob, perhaps I missed it, do you know what wheelbase you will have when all is said and done? I'm making more issues than progress with my 3 springer setup....
If I follow the Fronty-Ford plans I'll have an 88 inch wheelbase. If all goes well I'll spend some time on it tonight. Bob
I just sat and stared at mine today. Trying to decide how im going to do that front axle. I might drop down to around 90" wheelbase.
Well, a few days late, but the Z is in, just need to fab gussets and grind welds. But I can say it is basically done. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Congratulations! Nice to see someone making progress. Must be a new shop, workbench top has not become a shelf yet. Bob
Just found this build thread. Has inspired me to get mine finished which follows a roughly similar recipe.
A friend came over and helped get some benches built! Very useful. Moving forward. Started on the body base structure and firewall/steering column support. What did you get up too? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
pleased to see folk are still being inspired by Gerber . Here is a recent pick of my T with 27 chev spindles and hartford shocks. The build that never ends.
Some more 1x4 and the window is trimmed, a door jamb and the outside repair is done. More stain the soffits and gutters, then restain the rest of the house. Right now it is more enjoyable than working on the car projects. Bob
Was 7”, by the time I got everything squared and level and I chickened out, went with 6”. Still get to go back and grind out and retry some of the “welds”. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Second generation carpenter, you got that right, looking forward to putting up the next two sheets of sheetrock, and taping the back wall. Bob
Nice! if your using a T engine and prefer some ground clearance, 7" might have been too much. I set a pan in a chassis to find the lowest point I wanted to go--(I think it was 6" ground clearance if i remember right) Then figured tire diameter, and thusly the center distance of that that told me where my axle / spindle had to be, and the amount of drop I needed (still approximate of course). Of course midway through I changed from a T axle to an A axle. But I came out close still. I let the front drop dictate what the back was going to be, as I wanted them both the same drop. I took a tracing of the side of the rear portion of the rail, photo copied it a few times and started cutting it up until I arrived at all the right dimensions. I then transferred it to cardboard and marked and cut the real deal. One of the things I was adamant about was folding the top rail over vs cutting it off completely like you did. It's the small details that sometime count. Bob, sorry to Hi-Jack your thread.
That Z bend looks great! Using the Chevy frame sections I have won't be as easy as I thought if I want the 88" wheelbase. I'll need to add material. Bob
That is what I tried to achieve! You did a great job. I did have a surprise on my frame. The right hand frame rail was 3/8ths of an inch longer than the other. Drove me bonkers. There was some evidence that it might have been this way a while. The right side of the front wish bone has a gnarly kink in it... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Bob , that 88" wheelbase is pretty short . Before you finalize you decision . mock it up so you can see it . I built my last speedster at 95 " & it was plenty short
Thanks Pete! That speedster is one of the nicest period correct ones out there. How is the RAJO project and truck coming along? I've got 77 inches of the front of a T frame, really nice one with factory paint. I should just make up the back half in wood and see what feels comfortable, then make it in metal. Bob
1 is, why I got them for nothing. 3 big gouges out of one side of one. Also, they are at least 40 years old. Honestly, bummed. Great tires. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.