Yeah, I just went out and looked at my setup. The neg on coil is going to my ignition/kill switch and positive is going to dizzy. Ive always known negative to be ground and positive to be ouch!!
Yes. Just connect the ballast to the coil, and coil to distributor. Extend the starter wire [from key] to reach the starter.[S post] Some Delco starters have an extra [R post] , you can run a wire from there to the coil [or coil side of the ballast] This gets full 12v from the starter to coil when cranking, and is dead while running [no back feeding] On a 57 era Chevy's this is mandatory as there is no ignition from the switch while cranking [only run] You can connect up the stock Generator as usual or convert to Alternator
You only have 2 wires to worry about [coil and starter] The coil get + power from the 12v source [via the ballast to reduce it to 9v] The - side of the coil goes to the distributor which grounds it via the points [creating a circuit] When cranking over the engine there is a voltage drop from 12v to about 9v , So a 9v coil is used and the ballast is bypassed during cranking. When the engine is running there is no voltage drop, so the ballast reduces the voltage to 9v to save the coil from burning out. Edit: you can safely use your 6 cyl coil
Good morning folks, Unfortunately it is raining this morning, but at least I got the engine covered and not left to the weather. Anyway, I am looking for the absolute best option here for the next step. I have always sent heads and block out to be cleaned up and what ever might need to be done, but that usually costs an arm or leg, or right eye... and as I said, this is all being done on a fixed budget. Is there anything I can do here at home to continue cleanup? Prepping it, and getting ready for rebuild? I know the cylinders need attention. There's no deep scarring or pitting or deep rust, but since it has sat, I see that there is some light surface rust starting to show. It's still got oil residue, even after all the wiping out that I have done to all the cylinders still seems plenty of lube and not dry. (So as not to dry out and cause rust to form.) So, what are my options as far as home made options for cleanup, degreasing, and best option for the surface rust in the 2 or 3 cylinders... Can that be done at home so as to save $$$? If so, what are the best options for doing so, I'm not sure about scotchbrite, or steel wool, but figured I would ask here and get the do's don'ts and how to's. I just can't stand to be idle and not DOING something, especially when there is something that I am excited about doing! Thanks in advance everybody.
I use oven cleaner on the cast iron and wash with a power washer. A solvent and a brush. A wire brush on a electric drill. I just watched a guy on U tube that set a cly head upside down. sealed the water outlets and filled the water jacket with Evap O Rust. It took all the scale out from the head. Just buy a valve spring compressor and take the valves out clean and lap them and install new seals. The machine shop will want to install new valves and hard seats and cost you $$$$.
There is supposed to be a purple wire running from the key switch or start button to the start terminal on the starter. A Yellow wire runs from the other starter terminal to the battery + side of the coil. This gives you a full 12 volts when cranking. A hot wire from the ignition connects to the resistor and the other wire from the resistor connects to the + side of the Coil. The Negative- side of the coil hooks to the dist and tach if you have one.
You could take the rings out of the pistons if you haven't. Scrape any carbon out of the grooves. I use a broken ring as a scraper. Try some #0000 steel wool (Ace, Walmart) on the cylinders. If that doesn't cut the rust, try about 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper. Too humid to paint, but you could get some 320 grit and wet sand (with dishwashing liquid) the pan and valve covers. Body shop phrase- "If you can feel it, you can see it." That means to sand the paint/no paint edges (feather-edge) until you can't feel an edge. This is all cosmetic, but I saw how you drooled over that other 283. Ha. Get a can of this.
Can anyone twll me what tge correct head gasket is for tge 283?? I'm at autozone and they dont know jack about this stuff!! The gaskets that came out look like they were rusted to Sh**!! And they said it looks like someone used the wrong head gaskets. But Idk cus they seem to fit where all the holes line up, so?...
those are just steel shims. Pretty common and what I would use to keep the compression up Sent from my S48c using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Well, that figures. (AZ) When I asked if they had 5/16" x 24 , 4" leaf spring center bolts, the first question was "What kind of car does it go on?" Do you have a Chevy dealer nearby? Surely they have or can get a gasket set. Or call some auto repair shops and see where they get their stuff. Try Speedway Motors. Like Neb said, steel shims would up the compression a little because they are thinner than regular head gaskets. It squeezes the same volume of air/fuel into a smaller space.
Ok, that makes sense then. I heard about shims but never used them before. Locally they don't supply them here, I am going to look online and see who has a complete gasket set and if I dont need the shims just do it old school I guess. Thanks Im thinking now that I cleaned off all the head gasket residue from the heads, the block, cleaned up the push rods and sprayed everything down with industrial degreaser letting it all sit for while then scrubbed again and wiped it all down... I'm thinking I won't need to send anything out and just reinstall the pistons, push rods, rockers etc etc and everything the way it was and regasket and the main seals and such and once its all back together get the motor mounts and bellhousing, then I should be ready to install the thing in my truck!!
Already tried chevy dealer, these clowns are absolutely in the dark when it comes to anything older than 8 or 9 years. They act like , Them -: "Duh, what you talkin bout jorge?" "Is that a van dude, or is it envoy? Me - : "No, it's a 1958 Chevrolet truck" Them -: Uhhhh, I'm gonna have to call my supervisor to ask what you looking of" Me - : Never mind, I can see you don't have any idea. Good bye! Literally, that was the conversation!! I swear these goons are absolute IDIOTS!!
It's your money and I'm not trying to make you spend more than you want/need to, I'm just saying that if you put new rings in it, at least you would know they are new. (And then you could say you did.) I know you want to get it running. Go for it. It could have another 100,000 miles in it for all we know. And if not, you can re-rebuild it later. Yeah, that would give you time to locate/buy parts. PS: just read "Duh..." etc. SBL (shaking bed laughing)
Glad I made someone laugh, it wasn't funny talking to them though, actually irritating!! Anyway, yes I do plan to do the rings, if I do it now I won't have to wonder or worry later. I thought I included that in when I said reinstall everything with the gasket kit, as they come with I believe. gaskets seals rings and mains, I think that's what O'reillys told me.
So, in other words, "I'm glad YOU thought it was funny!" ? That sounds more like an overhaul kit. Whatever, as long as they know which buttons to push. Just make sure there are two head gaskets. (And that it doesn't say " 97- 02 Honda Civic".)
LMAO!! honda's suck!! Anyway, yes theres 2 head gaskets in the kit.. I'm looking online to see what the cheapest setup is to get it all at once and not break whats left of my wallet. Good night for now.. Talk to y'all in the am.
You'll have a very difficult time trying to find steel shim head gaskets; try SCE Gaskets, although they may be made of copper, and a bit $$$. If you don't do that, you'll most like wind up with a composition gasket with larger than a 4 inch bore ("universal"); basically a real CR killer, especially with a short stroke/small bore engine like a 265 or 283. You might also try looking at the 262, 267, 305 engines, steel shim head gaskets, or a marine outlet for them; I've actually had good luck with E-Bay, both on availability and cost. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Think I found a set on eBay, steel shim type head gaskets, they are 4.100" bore SBC Ad says they are fel-pro 7733 SH-1 SBC
Those are the "universal", one size fits all, and lowers the CR some, gaskets. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
What he means is that the hole in the gasket is bigger than the cylinder. (Excuse me if I tell you something you already know. I don't know what you do/ don't know) "CR" means compression ratio. That is the ratio between the volume of the cylinder and the space it squeezes the fuel/air mixture into. Just as a thinner gasket lessens the space, that extra volume between the top edge of the cylinder and the sealing ring in the gasket increases the space, and lowers the CR because the F/A isn't packed as tightly. (The more densely the molecules are packed, the more powerful the explosion.) We're talking relatively small numbers, but on a molecular level, a little can mean a lot. The idea is to lean toward increasing the CR rather that decreasing. So you need to at least find gaskets that fit the top of the cylinders. (Not oversize) You haven't said if you saw any numbers on the piston tops. Like ".010" That would mean that the engine has been bored ten thousandths of an inch, and you would have to specify .010 over rings. Assuming it hasn't been bored, you are looking for stock size head gaskets specifically for a 283. Not a universal, one size fits all. I forgot the gasket company that was suggested, but if they don't have steel (or copper shim gaskets (or stock gaskets), here is another possibility. It is EGGE 800-866-3443 I had to get a valve for an obsolete V6 from them. Google "obsolete engine parts" and you'll see their site. There was a suggestion a few pages back that you may have missed. If you put rings in, the cylinders can't be shiny smooth like a crank journal or the rings won't "seat". The cylinders need a certain amount of bite or texture or whatever they call it. Basically friction, so that the rings wear to fit the walls. Have you seen the kind of hairbrush that has little balls on the end of the bristles? They make a honing tool that looks like that. You put it in a drill and run it up and down the cylinders. The balls are abrasive and it gives the cylinder walls a crosshatch pattern. If you get on good terms with the machinist, he might let you borrow one for a pizza.
I know the compression ratio = CR. I have seen copper head shims, but nothing matches what I have. I've been trying to search online, Jeggs, rock auto, LMC, and even ebay... Still no exact match, and there aren't any numbers on the dam gaskets to go by!! And as far as I can tell I haven't noticed any numbers on the pistons, but I'll look in the morning in day light and see.
Here https://www.scegaskets.com/store/ch...askets/steel-shim-head-gasket-for-sbc-511961/ By the time you pay up for some decent head gaskets, you should consider zero decking the block so the pistons are flush with the deck. [and use std 0.40 gaskets]
^^^^On the SCE site, SBC, go to page "7" (last page), at the left hand bottom, you will find a 3.960 diameter, .015 thick head gasket, "a less than 4 inch diameter gasket". They used to have smaller than 3.960, which is more than .060 over on the 3.875, 283, bore.^^^^. I have several sets of 265 and 283 steel shim head gaskets, that I've collected for my projects and future projects. All the "big" gasket makers don't make a direct fit head gasket any more for the 283 (try to find 265!!!), hence the "universal", over 4 inch bore, head gaskets. Maybe all us HAMBERS need to start pounding on the gasket makers doors, and get them to make a few runs? Someone spends money on their 283, pistons, and machine work, and then can't find a direct fit head gasket. Not everyone has a .030 over 350 or 383 SBC. Maybe place an ad on ClassRacer.Com or YelloBullet.Com looking for direct fit head gaskets? Maybe a Stock or Super Stock racer will take pity on us and help us out. I doubt that!!! I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Not sure if anyone mentioned it but, I would recommend getting a new quality high volume oil pump as opposed to a high pressure one. Also I have always upgraded to a Cloyes true roller timing chain on my builds. I love the L79 327/350 cam in 283’s, but a 327/300 horse cam works pretty nice in the torque department.
I still have a brand new Cloyes timing set that I got with an engine kit when P.A.W. was in business. Great-looking gears. It is for a hopefully high-performance Buick V6. (Bored .060, 270°/280° cam, two Holley 94 (style) carbs on a Weiand manifold) The carbs are Amazon $100 knock-offs, but they have been worth that just to look at.
I prefer a Z-28 pump or a stock pump with a Z-28 spring. I have been reusing stock pumps with the cover surfaced flat instead of the new pumps that like to break.
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