Here ya go, I use them in the OFT more as interior light for putting key in. Use toggle switches in counsel. Ya know it's a old build with CB-lol
Didn’t see your post until today! Love the CB I guess there would be room enough there! looks like they are plenty bright based off the glare on your dash in the photo. Thank you for taking the pix @OFT
Ok this is mainly engine notes to self. I’ve seen it mentioned that the boat cam for these engines is super close to an Isky grind. I eventually had to find a human who knew and they said the boat cam spec’d to 204 duration @ .50 lift and valve lift is 498. I looked for a comparable comp cams unit and didn’t really find anything though they offer a hand full of cams for the 153. anyhow here is the Isky cam
Got a minute so I thought I’d share the new headlights / head light project my good friend had these king bees and figured if I took them all apart there’s probably two good ones in there some where current mock up headlight with hand for scale “new” lights with hand for scale. The new to me lights have a much shallower bucket and more of a round shape. And the bezel is thinner and rounder. Love both of those things! I’m curious if these old lights will adjust straight where the new ones havnt been
And since I’ve always thought about building a second headlight bar that is either dropped and mounts on shortened fender braces, or mounts to the frame but has a tie bar between the two and ive got a 30/1 head light bar bolted to some of these lights I started playing around. wondered if anyone’s run a set up like brain bass’ red roadster has but with fenders? anyhow was fucking around and rendered these. It would have the arch in the middle because I’d be using a later headlight bar but you get the idea. probably cut the ends off and rotate them up, reposition the tab. Trying to keep a stretched S shaped to it all. anyhow less rambling more pictures After the fact I’m wondering if I could just make the arch that a 30/1 bar has go forward instead of up. It could read sorta like a nerf bar? shits so low it’s probably cleaner to just mount them to the frame rail threw the fender instead of make the ends have 25 inches of drop. either way I’d pull the fenders off and mock it all up to see what they look like for real. Just kinda like the idea of being able to run them with or with out the fenders.
Took some heat and a hammer but I got the two best lights free and mocked up on the headlight bar. One has a mounting stud that’s pretty rotted and the other had the threads beat to shit when it was forced threw the headlight bar to take it off. oh well. Either way some magnets and they are mocked up. They look more like what I had in mind and they do adjust all the way up to see the road
I keep walking by it tonight doing loads of laundry and I’m surprised by how different it feels with these lights. looking forward to tearing them apart and making good lights out of them. Whenever that is. for now I just want to cut new threads and figure out how to keep them on the bar with out magnets haha
Haha @Rocky both @Tuck and @cactus1 saw the photo of all 4 lights and said to get out of the shop and find fresh air hahaha
I do like the idea of the super dropped bar, but I think as far down as you have them might be a bit too low for using with fenders....might look too saggy with the fenders way up there for reference and the lights way down low. Maybe about half way between a "regular" drop bar and that far down?
You could weld the lights to the bar and slot the bar mount holes on the fenders to adjust the lights.
The way drop or second look would be primarily for the fenderless outings. Just thought it would be cool if you could run it that way with the fenders as well. though for now I’m not gonna mess with it. Figured I’d mock it up for shits and grins since I was thinking about it and move on. gonna try to get the pedals in the brace this afternoon, it’s been hanging up in one tiny spot so I’ve been taking a file to it when I have a few odd minutes and it’s getting close. soon as the pedals fit I’ll test fit the cowl for clearance. That all clears I’ll build the attachments to the A pillars and then pull it out to drill all the new holes before bolting it to the car. in between I’m filing away at the gauge holes to fine tune the fit but it’s like hitting a damn drum echoing threw the cowl so it’s been slow going. Gauges in, pedals hung the next stop is the column support. I basicaly need a little wedge to fill the gap and 4 holes to bolt it all together. Still back and forth on if it has nuts welded to it and if it’ll even be made out of metal. Guess we’ll see.
full perfect range of adjustment with these lights! I think part of it is these have a much smaller mounting stud so you have way more wiggle room to situate them
I did something similar to my 28.. I also made some stanchions for strength.. It shows better if you click the pic....
A quick, very loud hand file and the dash is full! a quick pass with a flap disc on my wavy upright and a little extra time tappering the top corner and I tapped the pedal box in with a dead blow. it’s not an interference fit it’s just got tiny little tight spots here and there. In the top view of that upright you can see how waved the sides all are. I must have had that section squished in a vice or? At some point that it’s so waves but what ever. It’s super beefy and no one but you and me will ever see it next step is transferring centers and drilling the pedal box. I need to also fit the cowl top to see if it clears the pedals but I think I’m going to have to bolt the brace to the car first as I’m not sure how to clamp it with out interfering with the top going on. Anyhow... pictures
@scrap metal 48 thanks. I saw what @TexasSpeed did in his roadster and that started me down the path of tweaking a stock dash like this. I’ve seen it done a couple times online and really like it. I’m very tempted to rattle can it but I know I’ll have to strip it all back off to body work and paint it anyways so I’m hesitant
New mounting bolts for King Bee lights are available. Here is one source. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dietz-King...-Bucket-Mounting-Bolts-Hardware-/250740369381 Hope this helps. Phil
I'm diggin the dash too. I wish I could remove [unbolt] my cowl top like a model A. I need to swap out my gauges. Good news is I can reach down through the cowl vent hole to do almost all of it.
Awesome I’ll check that out! I’d rather be elbow deep into the cowl vent than crammed under the dash with my feet on the roof lol. Looking forward to seeing how it looks with the new gauges!
This is probably the original source for the King Bee headlight bolts. https://cwmoss.com/products/mounting-bolt-set-king-bee-dietz#details Phil
These aren’t rifle drilled like those. The wires exit the bucket instead of threw the stud. Smiling ford?
Alright so quick update. Used my new transfer punch set and marked the 4 holes in the uprights for the brake pedal box and the four holes that line up with the cowl side/ top holes. pulled the brace out, which fits perfect but is so snug that you really gotta force it out, and drilled all the holes. Put the brace on the cowl sitting on the bench and put some bolts into the cowl to make sure it all clears. every thing looks good. Need to file one spot to give just a little more breathing room and it’s pretty much good to go on that end. was happy to find that neither of the masters seem to have landed on a bead in the firewall o I’m stoked on that. after realizing what a pain in the ass it is to get the brace in/out I decided to go ahead and drill all the additional “accessory” holes in the brace now while it’s out instead of pulling it back out a dozen times. I’m sure it’ll go in and out a few more times but I think I’d like to minimize how many times it really needs to be. I’m going to just load the photos all in a lump at the end but you’ll see that I sharpies the general area of the holes I need to add and what for. this includes, two or three bolts to hold the cross brace to the lower firewall. Bolts to hold a fuse panel board, bolts for grounds, bolt forgot a ground strap to the frame, threaded holes for kick panels to bolt on. I had the old fuel filter where I thought it might make a good light, That sort of thing. still trying to pick a good spot for a little cube heater. anyhow there we are. Got a small load of “new” parts to pick up in the next couples weeks so I’m excited to add to the pile as well and make progress on the actual car. I chuckle every time I do this and think of all the cars @Rocky has built in his little garage
The Jalopy Journal
