Hot Rods which relay for vintage turn signal switch

i am getting ready to wire up my vintage signal stat 700, 5 wire switch by using the diagram posted here many times which uses 4 relays so you can run a single 1157 bulb for tail, stop, and turn. shopping, i see some relays have a resistor in them, some dont. listings say type A, or B, whats the diff? i am looking at the bosch 0332209150 at summit, 4.99 each, 12.99 at my local parts store! is this the correct style for this application? thanks https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bch-0332209150?seid=srese1&gcl

 

I used double pole double throw relays from RadioShack. You use two relays. The center leads go to the lights and the poles go to the brake switch,flasher,light switch. The turn signal switch only grounds the relays. They used to be available as plug ins.

 

Do you have a link to the schematic you are planning to use, to wire this? My guess is you don't need a resistor, but that's just a guess.

I think Andy might be talking about a different way to wire turn signals, using some other type of switch.

 

Here is the socket for five pin relay.

https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/80133

This can be used with four pin or five pin relay. They lock together to make a tidy package for multiple relays.

Phil

 

here's a link. sorry, i had to link the whole thread as there are two different schematics, one to use front park lights, and one not to. i will use my cowl lights up front. scroll down to RICH B's pdf files, thanks https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=155141

 

No more Radio Shack .

 

I have one. Just in it last week. Parts available online.

 

Just go to some trailer place and get one of those adapters for towing a trailer with a car that has amber turn signals in back.

Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Per the previous comments This adapter lists for 30.91 and I found it for 22.73 and you can probably find it locally at a trailer parts shop. https://www.curtmfg.com/part/56175
Simple fix that does exactly what you want to do.

If you have Amazon prime https://www.amazon.com/CURT-56175-Non-Powered-2-Wire-Converter/dp/B0049CM1LG

 

can't see the image files on there, without being logged in, and I'm not a member. Maybe you could post the schematic here, that you plan on using?

Anyways, one of the comments is that it uses spdt (5 pin) relays, so the one you listed above will probably work.

 

i couldnt move the file, so i took a pic, seems ok. thanks all for the responses, yes, i am aware of the trailer adapter thing, but its been noted here on older posts that they are not too reliable and this seems to be the better way to use many of the old aftermarket turn signal switches that require a separate circuit for the rear. i think i have read every old post on the subject here, and theres a lot of them!

 

and without the parking light feature, which is the plan for me as i have put a dual bulb socket in my cowl lights

 

seems like overkill.

 

Looks like "hey guys I took engineering classes and I can make this way more complicated than it needs to be.
All you really need to do is eliminate back feed from the turn signal (s) though the brake light wiring to the other side. Simply separating left rear and left right into individual circuits that will still let the brake switch feed both sides.
A pair of diodes should accomplish that.

The other option is to add a second turn only bulb in the tail light housings. Some of those twist in plastic sockets for things like early 90's dodge mini vans are small and flat and could be epoxied inside of most housings if there is room.

 

i'm using fake 37 ford tail lights. i already bought some single sockets with an L shaped bracket off some electrical site, and then did a really nice job of mounting them along side the 1157 in the 37 buckets, nice job, mama would be proud, and then i realized i could not pull my little teardrop camper without the hook up becoming non standard so i couldnt pull the trailer with anything else. so, after studying many many old post's, this seemed the way to go. googling signal stat 700 did bring me to some ford truck site that showed a guy rewiring the inside of the switch, but no mention of diodes that i recall

 

The resistor in the relay is there to suppress the voltage spike in the control circuit when you de-energize the relay. Electronic controls do not like to see 60 or 70 volt spikes. Originally "computer safe" relays had a diode across the coil. That meant that you had to wire the 85/86 circuit correctly or you would fry the diode. Putting a resistor across the coil meant you didn't have to observe any polarity on the 85/86 circuit.

I had a nice 47 Ford that the builder ran the horn through a relay. In the summer when your arm was a little sweaty and laying on the door window sill and you honked the horn, it was fine until you released the horn ring. Then you would get a little jolt from the relay coil. Would have been nice to have a relay with the resistor.

 

That schematic is for a 3 wire switch, I used it for my 41 Cadillac with 4 eBay Bosch type relays. Works as advertised.

 

thank you for the reply's

 

That SignalStat 700 switch has some different internal wiring as compared to a regular signal switch; may take a little changing to the wiring if you want the internal indicator lights to work.

 

yes, Rich, i saw some info about that on another forum. i thought that was only to make the pilot lights work correctly, i'll have to look again, thanks

 

here's a link about the internals for the next guy https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1207486-signal-stat-700-turn-swith-control.html

 

Thanks for that link Rusty Valley.