If you have old filters with the metal mesh around the paper element you can cut the paper away and just run the metal mesh, it'll keep the stones and pterodactyls out.
They look like a bias ply , vintage slick to me. BTW, real radial slicks don't require front radials. Front runner drag only tires are not radial construction.
What was your tire patch like when you tested your slicks with 35lbs in them? I bet they were narrower than your slick. If so, you’re going to have to drop the tire pressure. r Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
now thas funny right there.....no advice just go out and have fun and the next thing you will do is build a FED.....
Don't race without a loop, especially with good traction, however you obtain it... Sent from my SM-J320V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I see that some people save their trip-zip time slips. I usually throw them away..Especially the ones with LOSE on the bottom
There was a lot of history to this one Mark, My friend the Powershifter and I had been talking smack for about 3 years waiting for him to get his Ford up and running for the Meltdown Drags. Scotts dyno sheet showed about 100 more hp than my Chevy by then, I knew my only chance was to cut a good light. He was still sorting out his suspension so should be running low 10s by now So even though I Lost it was of my best races ever, and also received a $100.00 gift certificate from Competition Products in Oshkosh for the perfect light.
I keep them all. Good for reference, write on the back any changes you made, tire pressure, air temp, etc........
..Or use a free Jegs log book I write the weather specs right on the slip, before it changes. Eventually, they get logged in.
Cool! I had a set of M/T ET Streets from when I was on Team Mickey. I got them for my 62 Tempest 455. One night I stuck them under my o/t p.u. in street bracket. I told my buddy that they'd never spin and I was going to go trip-zip, or red, on the first hit. Sure enough , I came up .000 on the first TT. That made me no. 1 qualifier, in place for the first round bye. I got in the back for 1st round and come to find out , there was 32 cars..No byes any time. Lost the the eventual winner, right then and there
At least racers that win! I think the biggest thing is getting your car through tech and getting yourself familiar with your car. As you have pointed out fuel line, driveshaft loop should be worked out ahead of time. As far.as being familiar with your car, burnouts without smoking the clutch or rolling past the starting line are important, getting used to the car pulling hard in first gear with the slicks on ( the first time I took my 65 Willys pickup with a 440, TF with a J converter 4.10 gears and slicks out on the blacktop I could feel the weight of my eye balls on the hit ) theres just more going on faster. So find a quite place to practice getting the car in second gear with the slicks on. Good luck
I thought I'd better point out that a back road test will tell you almost nothing about the slicks. You're going to be on a prepped and glued track, unless it's some rinky dink place. You don't want to slip the clutch. You want to go to the track and find out how high you can come out , without spinning or bogging., and letting out the clutch as fast and hard as you can, if you want to get a hole shot jump on the other fellow. Tire pressure should be ,at a minimum, half what they are at now.
He should find a private place with 60 foot of concrete pad and enough room to stop after that. I am sure there are places that you could get permission to do a couple burn outs for practice in an industrial complex. Then buy some glue and try to break things!
Don't be so sure on dropping the tire pressure with Towel City slicks. Most reports from guys I race with is those slicks work better with more pressure unlike a conventional slick. I think it has to do with being a recapped a radial. You will just have to experiment to find your ideal tire pressure.
I did not see where he said they were radials.They come both ways, don't they? Yes, you are right about radials. Whole different deal. In fact, real radial slicks won't even work on a stick shift car. You'll bounce all over the place. These, with a standard stiff sidewall..who knows?
Alright, guys - I'm still here! Minor carnage lol So last night I took the coupe out to the local street racing area - check out "da pad New Orleans" on YouTube; it's a crazy place. It was early, around 7:30 pm and only many people were actually there. There's an area where people hang out about 1/4 mile from where the actual racing takes place. I cruised through there and was spotted by a modern Mustang. He followed me out and wanted to run en route; I was pretty oblivious and he came up on me; I was in 3rd gear and when he got along side, I dropped it down into 2nd and pretty much surprised us both Haha! But anyways, I stopped at the drag area and he kept on going, so whatever. Where they race there's a pretty big "burnout pit". I pulled into that - Ok, these slicks are new radial casings and then freshly recapped. I had the tire pressure at 40 psi (for whatever it's worth, the sidewall says 44) thinking that much air pressure would be better for just cruising around and doing burnouts and what not; I didn't think they'd hook too well... So, I held the engine at 2000rpms and popped the clutch. Instant, intense wheel hop and bang - u-joint failure, or so I thought. I pushed it off the road, tossed the driveshaft inside and called AAA. It was dark and i just had my phone for a light. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Got it in my garage and basically, what happened was with the wheel hop the u-joint didn't fail (this u-joint is a 1330 / 1310 conversion unit, with the 1310 on the pinion yoke) , but rather the straps that held the u-joint to the yoke did. These were straps, with bolts, not u-joint u-bolts. I also posted a pic of a tire after I got home; they're sticky! Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
After more inspection it looks like everything is ok, nothing really broken. I've ordered a new u-joint and actual u-joint u-bolts, both from Spicer. I'll put it all back together Monday, with my street tires! Now, at this point I got troubleshooting with my older brother. He's a muscle car guy and doesn't have a presence on here, but is aware of the forum. I asked if I could share his notes with you guys - Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Back in the 60s at Quaker City , I saw a car go thru the traps at about 100 MPH backwards because the driveshaft fell out and went under a wheel .