Technical Got My T finally running but I have a ?

That one at chasebays won't work for you. It is threaded on one end. You would either need to have a special outlet made or have your radiator modified. This would work better for you:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Inline-Die-Cast-Filler-Neck-1-5-Inch-Hose,9010.html
I am not sure what size your upper radiator hose is, but that is the style you could use in your application.
Edit: I just saw in your post that you were going to have it attached to your radiator.
Edit2: I found this:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Inline-Die-Cast-Filler-Neck-1-5-Inch-Hose,9010.html
Cheaper and easier

 

Yup, after having the existing vent and motometer cap soldered shut I would think the Speedway part is much easier and cheaper to install than that ugly Chase thing.

 

Lol. I was thinking about the chase bays one because it had a raise on it. I feel that the raise would give the coolant some more time to expand before it goes into the overflow. The chase bays have the weld on version to it with the hose end. So weld-on on one end and then hose attachment on the other end....

Im already putting money into it to have it welded so you guys are right. I think ill go with the less expensive one from speedway. And have a radiator shop weld the piece on for me. And also weld the motometer hole and the current over flow hose so that there is no air escaping .
I just have to get the correct measurement for my coolant hose to get the correct piece. Have you guys seen these in brass anywhere. I kinda want to match the radiator color . Maybe.
Thanks again

 

You will end up with one hell of an air lock in the top tank if you seal the top up. JW

 

Every rad shop has brass filler necks. Just get them to solder one on and polish it. No sense in reinventing the wheel.

Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

You talk about welding this stuff to your radiator. That’s not how it works. Parts are soldered to the brass tank. And, I don’t think any aluminum parts can be soldered to brass. Probably just easiest to do as we’ve been saying and have a good shop solder a standard brass elbow filler to the backside of the tank.

We realize you are the new owner and expert on this T, but if you keep asking all these experienced guys for advice and not following it you will soon have a thread with no responses.

 

I used a rebuilt stock A radiator which is the same setup as the one in question. I made a puck bottle that was pressurized and it just connected to the stock overflow tube and i made sure the original A cap gave a good seal..... It works very well. JW

 

Thanks everyone. Im going to look for a good radiator shop near my location.
If anyone knows a good place in new jersey. Please let me know.

In everyone's experience what is the usual cost to solder a brass elbow filler and seal 2 holes?

@26 T Ford RPU Does your puke tank have only one hole for the one hose or does it have 2 holes, one for the hose and the other for air? Thanks

P.S. this 1963 chevy 283 small block engine has dual 2x4 holley carb 4150 600 cfm. Ive seen small trucks run with 1. I have 2. I believe this a big cause for the overheat factor. What do you guys think?

 

It has two one going to the bottom of the tank, this from the radiator and the other is in the neck. JW

 

@26 T Ford RPU i need a little more explanation. Sorry.
So you have a old school T radiator like me. You sealed the top part with a air tight cap. So no air gets into that part. Then the hose that is inside the T radiator and comes out at the dip(center middle) of the radiator. That tube is at the bottom of your over flow tank(puke tank) so that it takes all the coolant back. The second hole is attached to your radiator filler neck. (Which i dont see in the picture). Is that right? Or am i getting something wrong.
Thanks. Just trying to fully understand how you have your setup.

 

Doesn't Speedway sell a pressure valve and cap for their old school radiator? I was just looking at one to fit my T. If I was more computer savvy, I'd cut and paste the info...

 

@rustydusty
Is it this ?
Where would this go ?

 

Mario, you got it right. As long as you can seal the top, ie; where your Motormeter is you can make yours work like mine. JW

 

This is what i used. 2'' copper pipe, 2x 2'' brass core plugs, small radiator neck and a new cap. I cut the ears of the cap and bonded it in the brass cap. I used Silver Solder but could be soldered. The tube to the overflow on the radiator was put in the side in a position that was out of sight. JW

 

@26 T Ford RPU

Awesome. Thank you.

So you have the original puke tube thats inside the radiator and comes out through the middle. you have that connected to the neck filler on the pressurized puke tank? Does the pressurized puke tank have a separate hole for air? Or is it just one hole?
Sorry for being a dummy. I just want to understand fully.
Thanks again.

 

The radiator over flow goes to the tube i put in near the bottom, The air moves in and out through the hose connected to the shot tube on the filler neck, this hose runs down behind it and just hangs by the chassis. JW

 

... when they seal your top, keep that cool ass Motometer where it is. Motometer over a dead hole.

 

@26 T Ford RPU
Ok. The radiator over flow tube goes into the bottom of the pressurized over flow tank. The tank then has a pressurized top with the filler neck that tube from the filler neck goes straight down to the ground .
I wanted to know the psi or lbs for the radiator cap?

Also the tube that comes out the filler neck and goes straight to the ground. That's so that air comes in and for any extra coolant to be dumped out , correct?
Thanks again for the help.

 

Cap is 14 lbs and you correct in your understanding. I would get your radiator pressure checked just to make sure it will handle the pressure. NO NOT have the filler neck soldered shut as you will have a real bad air lock and you will still need a filler point, just make sure it can be sealed. JW

 

In this case , I highly doubt your overheating problems have any thing to do with carburetion ...

 

I noticed a couple of things that might add to the heating situation.

The thermostat housing is higher than the radiator so it may have a air lock there.
Headers are vey blued. Has this been driven a lot or does it have a timing issue or incorrect fuel situation - too lean or rich. Radiator tanks that large do not like much pressure, but a change to a pressurized system may help.

Did you talk with the prior owner? How many miles are on it? Did it heat before and you bought someone’s problems? The system looks marginal and a thick core or close tube and fin spacing may not pass air well enough to be effective.

Perhaps you can find an experienced hot rodder in your area to point out some of the build features and details. Unfortunately, it seems the seller or builder did not provide much info and that makes it tough for any new buyer.

 

Your are correct. I bought this from a classic car shop. About 1 hour away from where i live.
The linkage was boobi traped to pop right off. Ill post a picture
The shop owner/ builder of the T explained to me that he only drove the T on the track. He said he put 63 miles on it. I didnt see 63 miles on the odometer.

The throttle cable pulled out the holder the 2nd day. And thats not the boobi trap im speaking about. The linkage had a bent pin slightly holding it together.
When i asked about the linkage, it was when the cable pulled out, the 2nd day owning the T, he said " thats a can of worms you dont want to open."

I will appreciate any information. If anyone sees anything thing wrong. Please , please let me know. If you could circle it , point it out, digram it up. Whatever it is i would appreciate the help.

This is my very first hot rod.

 

One thing i noticed and i have already mentioned it was the park brake cables/lever area. It all appears very close to wiring.
Another thing is the tie rod out front on the axle. I can't tell if it set up correctly but if the builder can't put a proper cotter in the carb linkage so im thinking he knows nothing on steering geometry. Some more photos will be good. JW

 

https://kustomrama.com/wiki/Moonshadow

... some detail engine shots you may like. Or not.



Edit : lol, yes \/ \/ dude ... it's a different car. Like the link states : Moonshadowwwwwwwwww' ...

\/ \/ this guy.

 

Of a different car ! JW

 

Poor engineering is certainly not unique on hot rods and customs. There is a world of difference to be seen at any car event.

Having said that, buying an unproven rod can be frustrating. The sorting out process can take time to remedy each problem, some owners live with them or have no idea how to fix them or sell off their problem child.

I have seen some very nice cars that could not go very far without overheating. But they look cool.

 

@26 T Ford RPU
Hey. I had another question.
I am gonna setup my system like yours .
Thats going to be the first step.

I saw a product on the internet and i wanted to know if it would work for my T. Im asking you because you have the same type of radiator that i do.

The part is a filler neck that connects to the manifold.
Would this work for my T?

Again im gonna do the pressurized over flow tank like you did before trying anything else. My father is actually a plumber and i have the copper pipe and the silver solder. Im only asking just incase this does not work out for me



This is the link for the part. There is another shorter simialr one that is the 2nd link. I believe the first link would work. This helps me understand my hot rod.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Aerospace-Components/026/AC-FN2/10002/-1
Or
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/53003/10002/-1

Thanks again

 

That Aerospace one is pretty nice. In one of my comments I thought I had posted a similar product at Speedway, but I just pasted the same link twice for a different product. Here is what I meant to link to:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...Housing-Intake-Manifold-Filler-Neck,9013.html
Although that one you found looks nicer. That would work with out having to do a lot of modification to your radiator. As others have stated, you would need to cap off the overflow on the stock radiator with this option.

 

The fill opening needs to be as high ( or slightly higher ) than the highest point in the system , otherwise there's no good way to get the system full without air ....
If that's a T radiator or a very old core , I'd be very careful about how much pressure you use , maybe 5-7 lbs.