i am contemplating installing a 351 cleveland engine with a C4 transmission in my 1955 T-Bird. Has anyone here done this and any info will be appreciated. Thanks,Henry
Kind of an OT engine here. I am putting a stroked one (408) in a 56 f100. If you do be prepared to pay more and have less choices when it comes to performance parts than you would for a 351Windsor. For me it was worth it. B
The oil pan sump has to be the same style, the 1st hurdle. If possible measure bolt-to-bolt on what you have and also on the 351 mounts. I'm no expert on transmission help but you may choose to upgrade to something appropriate to the newer engine.
How do you define a SBF and a BBF ? A 351C is a SBF , it has a small block belhousing pattern . Matter of fact it is Damn near a twin to a Boss 302 . It will fit nicely in an engine bay where a Y block was designed to live . If it were me I’d be searching for an FE to drop in your bird , it’s damn near bolt in .
I’m not so sure you will need a rear sump pan . It’s been years past that I was under a bird . Best as I remember the engine sets back behind the crossmember , if so no rear sump is needed . Just has been too long
The cross member will be in front of the motor but the steering linkage won't. In my 56 street hemi powered bird the pan cleared but it's pan was not clear at the front.
I built a 408 cleveland for my grandsons 1973 Mustang. aluminum heads, roller Isky cam, with a 4-speed. well worth it!
the 351c is what I have, so I will use it. I AM MODIFYING THE FRONT SUMP PAN TO A REAR SUMP. wILL POST PICTURES WHEN DONE. i WILL BE FITTING THE ENGINE INTO THE T-BIRD THIS WEEK. tHE T-BIRD HAD NO ENGINE OR TRANS WHEN i BOUGHT IT LAST FALL. I WILL BE USING A c4 TRANSMISSION.
Would be a lot easier buying a rear sump circle track pan or finding a 351M 4x4 truck pan than modifying a stocker. SPark
I believe all 351C2Vs had the FMX & the 4Vs had a C6. C4 topped out with the 302 until CAFE caused them to go behind 351W in the late 70s smoggers.
351C maybe called a small block but......................it mates up to a big block bell housing. (335 series not a Windsor like the 351W...302...289) Ford just LUVZ to mess with our headz. YOU COULD get a 351/400 M and that would be a big small block engine. Whateverrrrrrrrrr! 6sally6
302, 351W, 351C all use the same 6 bolt bell housing and motor mounts as a 289. 351M/400 use the 429/460 mounts and bell.
Except for the rare one year only 400 engine that has a dual bellhousing pattern, the second one being a small block pattern. And since someone brought up 289s, 1964 and earlier ones use a different five bolt pattern, shared by the 260 and 221 small blocks.
I put a 400M in my 56 Bird and used a 4x4 pan. I had to make a small modification to the bottom just above the steering linkage.
I put a 427 Ford engine & 4 speed in a 55 T-Bird about in 1972 -3 The T-Bird was a Automatic & as most of you know 6 volt I changed it over to 12 volt & Auto. to Stick. My Shop was the Second shop to do a Conv. like that on the East Coast The first one was done on L.I. NY I cant remember the Shop's Name It might have Been All Car Automotive but I am not Positive, as you get older you have a tendicy of forget thing's Just my 3.5 cents Live Learn ^ Die A Fool
A Recap on the Time Line it was in the 60's late ..! that I Did the Swap. Just my 3.5 cents Live Learn & Die a Fool
I've owned my bird since Dec 1967. I did a similar swap in the summer of 69. I used a mild built 390, T-10 and a 57 wagon 9 inch. Used a 4x4 oil pan, built side mounts for the eng. Modified the trans cross member and the Hurst shift mount so the handle came through the original hole in the floor. Managed to find NOS T-Bird clutch linkage in Iowa of all places! In 71 built headers and side pipes. Promptly blew the 390, installed a 427 and scattered the T-10. Replaced the T-10 with a big shaft top loader. In the summer of 73 spun a bearing in the 427. Sold the eng and the car had sat for 13 years when I installed the 400M.
got the engine and c4 mounted on the chassis, then sat the body back on the chassis last week. 3 days to get all the body mount bolts and ruber cushions in. The oil pan was a lot to build, but was the cheep way out for me. The oil pan to drag-link clearance is all of 3/4". the heads are 1/2" from hitting the firewall. I used a stock cleveland right hand exhaust manifold and it clears fine. the left manifold will not work. I think a pickup or van with the 351m-400 may be what it needs.
I have a 351 Cleveland and a C4 in my '50 Ford coupe, that engine is strong and sounds pretty good to! HRP
There was, years ago, a resto shop in Houston Texas than put a lot of 351's in the early birds, I don't recall what manifolds they used but it has been done a lot. Try Ford Barn, might be some help there. Does the pan hit when you turn the wheels lock to lock? Can you raise the engine to get some manifold clearance?
Take a bit off the steering box cover with a die grinder and use RTV sealant instead of a gasket. The engine will torque away from the steering box anyway.
I bet that is a "Bad mama-jamma"! How did it drive? Love to see some pictures (in a new post of course) 6sally6
the cleveland has 2 barrel heads(all I had) flat top pistons, and a fairly hot hydraulic cam..560" lift, 235*. hope it works with the stock converter. I will do some more grinding at the gearbox. i can't raise the engine because trans is hitting floor now. and i don't want to move it ahead so grinding is only alternative. Have not checked pan clearance at full turn yet. thanks for the idea. I sure want to drive it this summer!