Heat and bend for me . Allow them to cool at there own rate . Even if it is only a shock mount , I’m not keen on welding forging . It usually welds up nice and clean , but strange things happen to forging when welded .
Never build anything this early (32 Ford Pick Up). I'm not liking how cut and weld looks. Looks like a broken bone that healed without repositioning correctly and not the welding part. I was thinking of carrying the same contour as curved portion just enough so both frame bolts will fit.
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@1oldtimer question. In the aftermarket there are two lengths available. What length are original Ford unit's? or was there more than one size?
The original Ford arm is long. The aftermarket probably makes a short one so you won't need to shorten it. Cheater's is not a Ford. Probably Dodge.
Alchemy that's why I asked what length stock ones are. Her 32 is a take over project for me therefore there are parts already collected and many that are not. In this area that the question is aim toward there are lower shock mounts and shock's but no upper mount. I need to see what all length that are out there before deciding on a given length shock mount per shocks already collected (not to say if I feel shocks need changing, I'll do so if angle isn't correct). For natural reason I'd rather have stock units because materials are better.
The ones I have now are about 8 3/4 from the center of the bottom hole to the center of the stud, they have a Ford part number on them. The aftermarket ones I used on the A seem to be around the same length before I hacked them up. Plus the aftermarket ones might not be forged as the originals, which might lend itself to welding on more.
That and the lower hole looks to be machined flat and a smaller hole size. The Ford has both holes looking the same.
Good to know but who has the best/better materiel? Another way of cut and weld that just came to mind would be to just cut the end bolt hole off and shorten curve area and reweld the end on. This would remove the bend look I dislike so much.