Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

I just googled Chevrolet "master " DELUXE and it came up for 1935--1940 years At that time they continued to produce a master series and the cheaper standard series
mike lynch

 

Here is the set I managed to find last year. I see no reason why the roadster wood bows would not work on the roadster pickup .. These were made by dave sylvain of MASS. as a second set for sale. I only purchased the bows not the windshield top piece.
mike lynch

 

Saw this one today.


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Is KC Wood the main source most of you guys are going to for your repro wood? Chevywood.com

 

You could probably buy my 4 door body and ship it to cali as cheap as you could buy the wood and install it !!!!

 

Speaking of wood, I am posting this here in case it is useful to someone on this thread. This is how I have created a floor and a windshield header for my 29 Chev truck cab. I plan on replacing all the wood in this way eventually.

As already posted earlier, this is a cab I bought at an auction years ago. Until now it has always been two pieces, a front half and a back half, because the original wood disappeared from sitting on the ground.



It hasn’t had a windshield header in many years either, so nothing up there for the roof rails to tie into.



To start I had to fabricate a whole new left cowl sill because it was lost for some reason.



I had the right side so I made a paper pattern and laid it out on 12 gage sheet metal in reverse.



Next I fabricated outside floor rails following the contour of the cab. I determined the width between these by subtracting the thickness of the doors at the door sills.





The floor frame is made from 2 piece boxed 16 gage sheet metal.



Construction of the cross rails is the same.



I determined the position of the cross rails by picking up the mounting holes to the short section of original frame I kept for assembly and dimension reference.



Wherever the floor frame to wall brackets needed to be bolted down, I tack welded nuts to the underside of the side rails.




Here is the nearly complete floor frame without the cab back in place. Next I took the assembly out to finish boxing and additional welding.

 

To deal with the windshield header I used the same principal except I used 20 gage sheet. I welded in the steel tubing to prevent crushing when the bolt is tightened up.



Then I fabbed a 90 degree 16 gage rail that picks up on the same bolts, holding the header in place, for a flange to bolt the visor to.



Like this.





Finally I have a place to bolt the upper roof rails, once I reproduced the upper left bracket off the dimensions of the upper right one.





The windshield header has also been re-enforced here on each side for extra strength and mounting for nuts on the inside, to provide a structure for the roof rails to tie into.




Here are some random pictures of the two pieces mated together for the first time in many years.









Next I'll be reproducing the door jam wood in metal, so I can hang the doors without having to strap them in place.

Back to our regularly scheduled program. CaliChevyV8 has a question pending in post 2764. Sorry to interrupt.

 

altho its not a pickup wood, but a coupe of the same time period as your truck. Notice how the wood went together. Basically each side had a wood sill that ran from the firewall to the rear of the main body, its roughtly 1 7/8" thick made of northern ash. This gets the body up so the splash aprons slip underneath. Under the wood sills are 3/16" thick rubber body mounts. Where you have the metal cross braces, those would be wood about 3/4" thick and tie each side together. One would be at the seat area and other would be behind it. Slots 3/4" deep would be cut into the sills so the wood sits into it and also 3-4 wood screws size 12--14 spread in a pattern to hold it down. Normally the sills sit on the frame and the body mounts are 3/8" bolts.

You could use countersunk allen heads for a smooth finish.

Here is a picture I have of what looks to be a 1925---1928 chev coupe being rewooded.
mike lynch

 

Does anyone know if a truck cab would bolt to a car frame? That is part of the reason I picked up the original bolt holes in the new floor frame. Just in case I find a car frame. Wouldn't you know it the two I had once upon a time I sold(DOPE!).

 

If your prepared to wait 2--3 years before getting a complete wood kit for your car, get in a long line of people waiting.
Doesn't matter which shop you use, they are all WILDLY BEHIND..

I have seen all sorts of posts on the net re wood kits and people really pissed, not on quality but the amount of time you have to wait. Whats these guys should do is STOP TAKING DEPOSITS on future orders. Do your research. Joes 33 master 4 door original wood looks to be in great shape.

mike lynch

 

Exactly what style of car are you building................highboy truck body on top of frame or channeled over frame or ???? With or without fenders ?

mike lynch

 

The wood and the body are in amazing condition , It's the only reason I haven't parted it yet .

Honestly , to nice to destroy , the only place the wood needs a little attension is the 4 corners on the roof insert ,easy repair

only hole in the body is the size of a quarter rear passenger side .

 

Right now I'm thinking cab on top of frame. I can go the other direction if channeling is required. The decision will be made if I can replace the fenders and stuff I got rid of when I lost storage years ago. I will bend up my own box to make my own version of a light pick-up Chevrolet never mass produced until 1930.

If I don't go that direction I'll try swooping a frame to get a highboy version nice and low. If I channel it, I won't go more than the frame width. I have a vision in my head of an under-slung front suspension too.

Power either way will be a 194 cu.in. inline 6 from a 63 Chevy II.

Here is a picture of the crest on the cab, right behind the doors. It is the biggest reason I decided to save this cab.



It reads: BRANTFORD BODIES Manufactured by Canada Carriage & Body Company Limited. Brantford Canada. I can't tell what it says inside the circle.

 

here is a 34 chev truck I have removed the wood from and replaced with steel

and a picture of what might be the original saw that cut the wood LOL

 

If that is true Wood Remover it likely cut the wood for mine as well.

Will yours be full fendered or highboy? I studied your pictures for ideas earlier in this thread. That is why I've posted here. Hoping to influence some educated decisions for others.

 

Going to be a full fendered truck .

 

Very nice Wood Remover. Stock or upgraded?

I eyeballed this truck ages ago in a local field. Wish I could give them all homes.

 

Right you are I have the ability to make a T bucket style frame, as well as the parts to put a ford axle up front, or even run an A frame, but it seems a bit common. I can also run Model A fenders, but...... I guess I'm a "pure blood" kind of thinker.

Here's a local Truck someone built during his high school days. Ford on a Chev chassis, so I guess I could justify mixed blood.

 

I miss living out west (saskatoon ) in the late 80s , stuff comi g out of the wood work back then , govt was sending the crushers thru the country side if vehicles could be seen ,they were taken away ..

 

here are a few pictures of that hiboy 27 t coupe with IRON DUKE 4 banger. mike lynch

 

Heres a few more pics of the doors with original hardware .And rare 15 inch 6 bolt artillery wheels 1940

 

Nice work Wood Remover. I've got a long way to go yet I'm thinking.

 

Trucks are a lot tougher to put steel into .
No door jambs or frame.on doors .Cars have both , I have done both , and trucks are way tougher .

 

I Just Purchased This 1935 Chevy Coupe That I Have Wanted Since I Was 15 And As A Dumb Ford Guy Will Need Counselling On The Clutch/ETC...Thanks...

 

If you got yourself a 1935 Chevrolet STANDARD SERIES "EC" , the frame has an X member and is much stronger than a 34 standard series DC.. Only diff between 34-35 is the frame and motor.

Is the car stock or SBC with 4 speed ?? You did not say.

Welcome aboard, we like Bowties not blue ovals

mike lynch

 

Good score! Tell us more about it. What are your plans?

 

Very good looking 35 !!!!

 

Thanks For The Info And The Coupe Is Stock And Was Priced Right In That It Needs A Clutch And Pops Out Of High Gear...I Am Going To Fix The Problems And Just Enjoy...

 

I Am Going To Make A Stock Driver Out Of The Coupe And Have Fun...Thanks..