Projects 26 T Roadster Pick Up build Thread

LOL
I didn't say anything at the time but I kinda figured that a shroud would end up being fabbed. I'm sure it will be awesome
Bobby

 

A little bit of both

I just decided why not.

 

I had a feeling you might....


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

After all those years turning wrenches, I really came to appreciate those 2 piece shrouds.
Remove the top to access the fan and pulley - R&R the belt. The lower tended to catch any dropped hardware too.
It's a bit more work (extra flange and the hardware), but beats fighting this stuff.

 

Not to be picky but. The mechanical fan fits the build way better than the electric unit but that flex fan just doesn't look right for the style of your truck. Isn't there a steel fan that fits the style of a fiftys build? Just my humble opinion, don't take it the wrong way. It's all in the small details.

 

Unfortunately not, that fan is the smallest and thinnest mechanical fan I could find.

In all honesty it’s the only way I was able to fit a mechanical fan at all.

I think that once I’ve got the shroud built it will
be less obvious.
I think it’s going to work well.
https://derale.com/products/belt-dr...2-electric-rad-fan-aluminum-shroud-kit-detail


Description

Rated for engine speeds up to 8,000 rpm, this high performance 13" standard rotation flex fan includes 6 stainless steel blades and a black powder coated hub. A very good choice for applications with limited space between the radiator and water pump.

 

Today I spent a little time with my JD2 tubing bender and used some 1/2” aluminum conduit to determine a pattern for my offset tie rod.

Some nicely placed 30 degree bends worked out perfectly.

Once I get the double adjusters for the ends and my new tie rod ends I can bend my new tie rod using the 7/8” x .156 Stainless tubing I got.

Then I’ll get to the fan shroud.

 

I think that's going to work really well.

Bobby

 

While I’m waiting for the double adjusters to come I’m going to build a front end alignment toe in gauge this week.

Then I will set the car down on the floor and set the toe in when the tie rod is all done.

 

It will work well but the offset will cause it to pivot on the tie rod ends and hang down lower toward the chassis rails. JW

 

I don’t think it will hang down that much really.
I guess we’ll see but I think it’s going to work well.
I can adjust to compensate for it I think.

 

That stuff moves a lot less than people think it does. How many fords came with bent up drag links? Lots of them. How many shoe box fords with a sbc have a Z shaped tie rod? Almost all of them.

We aren’t going rock crawling with these things lol. They’re about one step above bolting it solid with a rubber cushion between pieces

 

If you dont mind me asking, how do you like your tube bender? You made some clean bends on your new tie rod. Thanks, ty

 

No problem, that JD2 model 3 bender is a really nice piece of equipment.

Easy to use and the dies are machined perfectly.

It’s not cheap but well worth it.
Those bends are only in the aluminum conduit so far for testing but the actual tie rod tubing will bend as nicely or better.

 

So while I’m waiting for some parts to carry on I decided to get to my dash and install the Classic Instruments gauges to get ready for wiring.

The push button you see between the speedometer and tachometer is an old push button momentary switch that I grabbed from an old Lincoln portable welding machine that was being scrapped.

The machine was built way back in the early days of Lincoln welding machine manufacturing, heck it might even be as old as my T.

It once spun the welders starter and now it’s my horn button.

 

I can dig it. Keeping the tan light switch or got something planned for that? Curious mostly because I’ve got a few similar ones and don’t know that I really like the look.

 

Didn't they have metric oil pressure and water temp gauges to go with the KPH speedo?

 

You'll want to add a relay to that headlite switch, or you'll burn it up quick. They're cool little switches, but they don't like to have any amperage going through them. Just a thought.
LeRoy.

 

I’m not sure. I think there are different knobs that I can fit to it.
I may well change it in the future.

Nope . The initial plan was to install the MPH speedometer but with the local authorities being deeply in love with the money they raise from photo radar and other speed traps to root as much money out of our pockets as possible I decided I’d rather know what my speed was rather than trying to memorize the conversion
That along with the GPS driven speedometer should mean I’ll be okay.
As long as I pay attention

That’s interesting Leroy. My buddies T here in Edmonton has run that Cole Hersee 7112 - 4 way switch now for over 20 years with no relay.
Same switch he installed way back when.
I asked him about the relay. None used.

 

That’s interesting Leroy. My buddies T here in Edmonton has run that Cole Hersee 7112 - 4 way switch now for over 20 years with no relay.
Same switch he installed way back when.
I asked him about the relay. None used.
View attachment 4171145 [/QUOTE]
The more important thing is that you will have better and brighter lights using a relay.

 

I used two, one for each beam and at 30amp ratings will last for ever. JW

 

The more important thing is that you will have better and brighter lights using a relay.[/QUOTE]


I’ll take a look at installing a relay as long as I can install it on the firewall panel inside under the dash.

 

The KPH speedo is clever, for the reasons stated. I've been running an old car basically daily since I started driving, so I don't have to do the math anymore. It's kinda like hearing a word in in French or Spanish that I know well enough to just know. A fish taco and a taco de pescado is the same thing, no translation necessary. Lousy example, I couldn't order a fish taco in Montreal . I like the tan dash knob, for my nickel. But I spent 12 hours today moving to new digs, so I could be a little punchy.

 

[/QUOTE]
https://www.danielsternlighting.com/
This guy has great info on lighting and relay use. I did a relay conversion on a '63 Valiant I drove daily from one lil town in the boonies to another, and it worked very well.

 

By having both beams on separate relays it keep the electrical load out of the light switch AND the dip switch....each being a point of possible resistance AND you can run much shorter feed wires. JW

 

Probably in a minority here; but I've installed similar quality* switches in hot rods, sweepers, plow trucks, tractors, and other equipment for ages with no relays and no problems. On the other hand, if your Hiway wire kit comes with skinny little light wires, maybe something to consider (or use 12 ga wire instead). Just saying, other's results may vary.
* not gypo China switches

 

I have the same switch in my T, I installed a relay after wrapping my hand around a very warm (but not hot) switch, now the switch is cold as ice, and yes, the lights are brighter, as they take power directly from the battery. No matter, I'm not a fan of night driving, too many deer around here, even in town. Get that wreck on the road man, its almost february.

 

Not to distract from Blue's thread; but while I understand the circuitry; I was wondering how you laid out your components and sourced your power.

 

Power for the switch comes right off the fuse box 2 feet away, 12 gauge wire feeding it, 12 gauge to the dimmer 1 foot away, before adding the relay. I know what I'm doing when it comes to wiring.

 

I've said it before, while that is a very functional looking wiring job it would not be appropriate for an exposed firewall hoodless car like mine.