Really not excited about removing that crossmember. I feel like the rails are gonna twist no matter how much I brace it. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You braced it enough, go ahead Eddie, grind those rivets off top and bottom, as I had cut mine out for the early Ford cross member. Just make sure you measure the center of your cross member and mark this on the top of your frame so you know where to weld in the early Ford cross member to keep your 109" wheelbase. What I need to tell you, is that the lower c-channel is bent around the Chevy cross member like mine was. So to make the c-channel look like the top, you will need to cut out this section and replace with flat steel. Looks like your original Chevy frame horns are clean enough to keep. I had to replace my Chevy frame horns with '32 Ford original style ones to clean up the frame horns in the front. Click on my link from my signature to see my build if you wish...
Well. Whoops!! It’s out. But I neglected to measure anything on it. lol. Should have looked at my phone! And yes I see the cups cut out of the bottom of the rails. I was going to cut a piece to fit and fill it up Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You're good Eddie, the frame horns are clean enough to make your marks. I knew as well to cut those cups out and replace with new steel and have done it already. Although you will also notice that the c-channel gets wider near the original Chevy cross member and most likely will have to trim until they're equal on both sides of the frame rails. Spreader bar looks great too - Nice job so far sir! Subscribed!
For you early Chevy freaks.. a hardcore East Coast 1959-1960 build from the Boston area. Here is a Ford "spring-ahead" front axle which was dropped & drilled, fully chromed and with fabbed custom hairpins. The builder left the Chevy front crossmember in, but blended a piece of channel iron to the front of that, so then the Ford axle ended up in the correct original place to give the same stock wheelbase. If you want to see more text and details, I put a link below from Hamb. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...neled-chev-rpu-with-early-olds-rocket.822101/ .
Thank you sir. Next up today will be making those fill ins for the lower frame rails so my boxing can go in. That subframe was FUN to remove. She didn’t wanna go. A cutoff wheel, grinder, punch, drilling as well as some major beating and its out. It’s the small victories!! So for that trans mount, can I leave that and potentially use it or build off it for my 327 and manual trans combo? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Tell me about it, mine was a bastard to cut out... The trans mount you are referring to is the next one back from the front cross member? I would say no, also would assume that you would be looking into a sturdy x-member and trans mount for your 4 speed or Tremec 5 speed. I would recommend talking to a tech at Speedway Motors or another company to help in your trans mount. My x-member came from Speedway with an automatic trans mount, knowing I'm going with a 200r4 or 700r4, whichever is more stout to handle the horsepower I'm looking for.
Love the chromed visor. Super old school look! Beautiful car. Looks like a TPI small block out of a Vette setup? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just read whole post - u ask for suggestions. Lots of ford rods keep it Chev. That means front suspension & big 6 + 5 speed. No channel, full fenders cheap paint drive it for while maybe a chop later with nice body & final nice paint. Free advice what u paid for it
on my car, '33 3w, the cross member was moved back to make room for the small block and bell housing. this photo shows the bell housing mounts and front "hurst" mount .
Had my next two boxing plates sheared today at the local steel shop...boy would I give to have all those tools on hand everyday all day. So I'll be hopefully tacking those in this evening!
yeah figured maybe there was a slight chance of a miracle there but nope!! lol. So I'll keep boxing till I get there and pull it
Managed to get the second round of boxing rough cut and fit. A little grinding and they should be ready to tack in. I’m still up in the air as to how I should tie the frame down well enough to avoid any distortion to the frame when I begin to weld this all in. I have an idea in my head with a series of angle braces anchored into the ground with unistrut. But? Any input on that one is graciously accepted. I will practice the 1234 rule and stagger my welds over a bit of time. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I couldn’t agree more. This being my first hot rod build and my reasons for building it this has become a real turning of a page for me. This will be the family hot rod hopefully indefinitely. My kids will drive it and learn to take care of it no doubt. There’s no way I’d be able to part with something I’ve had so much invested into building. Well said sir. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you were to set your frame on jack stands and leveled it out, you should be able to set weights on the frame to keep the shape in place when welding. Not sure how much weight you would need. That is basically what a frame table provides is a simple and fast way to secure the frame from moving when the metal expands and contracts while welding. There is some shrinkage that will take place as a result of welding. I have done some minor frame modifications on my 31 Chevy sedan. I used 80lbs bags of ready mix concrete to hold the frame down. I just about finished the rear end set up. I will move on to the front end next. I am using a 52 Chevy truck front axle and brakes. I have some fab ideas to get the front end low without dropping the axle. I will create a build thread for my car one of these days. What rear end are you using? I get the idea of using a Ford front end. Especially if you like the look with hairpins. Looks like you are off to a good start.
Check this thread for ideas on the way to do your frame https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/no-frame-build-my-own-model-a.1076697/
Thanks for that input. Good advice. In retrospect I’m thinking maybe just a center beam down to the floor to hold the frame down as well as several supports running across the rails and diagonally. I haven’t rounded up a rear end just yet but i have my eye out for a tri 5 Chevy rear or I’ll order one up out of speedway. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So as I box this in flush from the firewall forward I’m thinking about from the firewall back recessing the boxing plates in 1/4 or so as was suggested before for clean wiring as well as the brake lines that can tuck inside. Anyone seen both be done on a frame? Is there anything negative in doing so? The idea of a down and dirty hot rod has left the building. I would like to make this thing pretty well finished off and nice so these front rails i think will end up being smoothed primed and painted. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Damn right! I'm "step boxing" my rails as well. Have you come to a somewhat decision on paint for the chassis and body?
Mike, don't forget, you are going to need to get wires/brake lines from the firewall to the radiator shell. they will need to go by the headers. might be a good idea to mock it up before paint so you can put holes in the front plates. in the past I have welded conduit inside the frame, curved in and boxed around the ends of the conduit. once welded and ground, it formed an smooth oval hole to chase the wires through.
In thinking about this I was planning to start my recessed box areas just a few inches back from the firewall under my channeled body. Drill holes in the upper rails later for headlamp conduit placement. Drill holes in sides of rails later for front brake lines...and then run both thru front boxed rails till they go under firewall then they'll come out and into the recess of the frame further down the car. Sound ok? also obviously no unions, fittings, or connections inside rails.
I would add a cross brace. All you have there is a top and bottom brace ( a parallelogram ). Plenty strong but you are not accounting for rail twist. Not that will happen , but it could very easily. You have a couple spot welds is what I see. You are approaching the welding properly with keeping the heat concentration down. Add an X Top right frame rail to bottom left frame rail...Top left frame rail to bottom right frame rail.
i was thinking just a simple gap like this to peek the wiring and brake lines thru. Any thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Conduit will offer better protection for the wiring, look neater and it will be easier to pull wires thru!
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