I hope everyone joined there holiday. I'm now back to work on the coupe after a very busy couple weeks. My question is, there's is no washers that go between the perch, axle, rod, and shock mount right?
Right....the nuts that go on the bottom of the spring perch are conical. The perches should have holes for cotter pins to keep the nuts from backing off.
The fronts of the ladder bars are too far apart. This will cause early bind. The fact that the coilovers are straight up and down will disallow any natural body roll control that a coilovers installed at an angle have. The coilovers should be at a 30 degree angle, at most, the ladder bar should be no more than 8 inches apart at the front. They should be as far apart at the rear as is practical.
Finished my chassis before we put the body on. Just waiting on tie rod to come in the mail. Also went with different wheel, more traditional I think. Also added some photos of the windshield and interior
Hey fellas finally got the body on. Very exciting to see this come together. So on trying to decide where to mount the body, I assume following th contour of the frame? I plan on bolting it where it sits, you agree?
I’m going to lower the rear more. And I’m using the gas tank in it’s intended location. Does that spacing look right?
Here are some close ups of the frame and body. The front sits closer to the frame than the rear does. I plan to use different thickness of rubber for my mounts?
I just noticed why the rear doesnt sit flush. So do I cut of the horns and mount the tank inside? Or follow the original plan and use the horns with think rubber bushings for body mounts?
Well to fix is to imply my coil overs are broken, which there not. I understand the theory why the coil overs should be tilted. In my practice of that theory with the last two model As I have built, my coil overs have been tilted like you say and I was not very impressed with the ride. Not to say it was bad but I felt it could have been better. Of course there’s other factors. But take in consideration this is by no stretch a race car or slalom track car. most of the weight is towards the front of the car. All of my driving will be in straight lines with some turns at less than 8mph, i figure there’s no hurt in experimenting with the angle of coil over theory. If my ride is less than comfortable, I will admit with confidence that my experiment lacked better angles. I hope you don’t think I’m brushing you off, even in my career there has been exceptions to theory’s.
On a Model A on 32 rails, if you want to keep the rear frame horns you'll have to notch or remove that rear body crossmember to get the body to sit right. If look at the back of a 32 coupe, that rear panel is shorter. The other option is to cut the frame horns off and run a tank in the trunk, that's what I'm doing on my coupe.
Looks great, man. I have to echo others' thoughts about the angle of the shocks. You'll want to get them at an angle so they are effective in turns too. But run em like you got em, and give us a report. Brian Bass put a '32 windshield header on his '28/9 coupe.
I understand. I looked at the diffence between a 32 and 31. I will probably cut the horns. We’re did you cut?
Yeah thanks man. Some Buddys are curious to see how well vertical shocks run, especially cuz that’s how a couple of them run em on their tubbed street cars. Plus it’s not like it’s permanent. I really like Brian’s car. That is one of my inspiration. Maybe that’s were I saw the windshield mod
spiff... the coil over's angle makes the shock travel further for the same distance of vertical travel... slightly changing the weight rating... …. I like to cut the '32 rear horns off... flip a pair of model A front frame horns upside down and weld them on as to let them curve upward, [ kind of leveling off] … bolt in a stainless tube as spreader bar... you can set them up at the angle you need to let the body sit right... '38 plate / trunk handle was a little gaudy... decided to run the plate off the 2 lower spare tire mounting bracket bosses...
Mine are cut just short of the rear body crossmember. I have a build thread 31apickup builds a coupe that has photos. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just read through it. My last two As were fender cars so there was no need for floor mods only firewall mods. My coupes floors have been modified already. I can see it’s a lot of work. Keep postin, What power train you using ?
My only comment is to secure your argon bottle either to a cart or the wall. Sitting in the open and it could get knocked over and if the valve were to get knocked off, you would be in for some exciting times.
I remember the episode of the "A team series" when they would knock the valves off gas bottles as torpedoes... I have anchored mine well just in case...
Thanks for the cart suggestion. I’m getting tired of Lugging it around. I’m making it a priority since I didn’t know about the safety issue.
Cut the horns off, I think it looks better. Workin on lowering the rear then I’ll make some rubber mounts.
Thanks. It’s a product called por-15. Extremely durable. And sticks very good. It’s a rust preventative product or if it’s already forming. They recommend to brush it on first then use an aresol for top coat. The brush comes in flat, satin, or gloss. I used gloss on the wheels, rear end, x member, bones, axle, and calipers. I used satin aresol on the chassis only. You must wear gloves, it stains the skin for days. Can be mess to brush on especially if it’s a crappy brush. Best to apply in a couple coats. Is used satin on the chassis because I might paint the car satin black....or gloss. Can’t decide. But I really recommend this product for those things
Mock set up. How high should I set the motor up? Also considering different valve covers. Or having mine chrome. I’m going to order a new pump from HH. getting my radiator today to see were I’m going to bolt the motor down.
Well that post came out kinda weird. Guess I need more practice. That was me blabbering about por15, but I made it look like Omar said it. Pat