Blew my 302 2 weeks ago. Lost pressure and was knocking by time I lgot to shoulder. My heads are good (iron) and it is a early roller block if I recall correctly. No 347 if I was to go that route I would start with 351. Here’s the combo , motor,t18 4 speed with 3.00 gear and 29” rear tire. This is a driver which will pull trailer occasionally but nothing heavy total weight 3500. Looking for ideas on cam ect. This needs to live on 87 gas. I was running Edelbrock 600 and performer manifold, undiluted distrbutor and unknown shorty headers. This is all in a 56 F100. Thoughts
willy wrote - I was running Edelbrock 600 and performer manifold, undiluted distrbutor and unknown shorty headers. What's an undiluted distributor ? Mike
I ran my 5.0 on 87 octane. It had Pro Comp aluminum heads , Comp .512 lift hyd. roller cam. Edelbrock perfomer intake and Edelbrock carb with a Summit HEI. For 3 years of daily driving. Now days you can buy a 331 kit about as cheap as good rebuild kit. Need to find why it was knocking.
Personally I would also change rear end gears to something like 3.50's no need to let any motor lug. Pat
I guess what I didn’t make clear is I’m going to use parts I have for best results with these parts. I won’t tow very much . Most of the time I’m just driving around. I have off topic cars/trucks for fast and heavier towing. Thinking a 331 would be a little better without a big expense building or maintaining later. If someone has experience post a combo you used.
Sounds good.Pretty sure it’s a rod. Instant oil pressure loss. Will start but is hammering. If I rebuild will do the stroke. Thanks
10 years ago I spent a lot of time researching the 331 versus 347 deal. I found more old wifes tales than truth. I ended up with a scat crank and rods with probe pistons. Mine is a 342. I have around 26000 miles on it. I used the gt40p heads and a stock mustang gt roller with 1.7 rockers. It is 9-1 comp. It is very crisp, has excellent low end and the only down side I can relate is the forged pistons rattle slightly when you 1st start it up. It transformed a typical 302 into something way better.
It's almost the same money to build a 331 as rebuild a 302. It is exactly the same money to build a 347 as a 331. The stock 5.0 HO cam is probably what you want to run. It was used in all Mustang LX 5.0's and GT's from '85-'95. They are about 210-212 degrees at 0.050 with 0.444" lift with 1.6:1 rockers. Throw a set of 1.72:1 rockers and get 0.477" lift. They make good power from about idle to 5000-5500. You can get 300 hp and 350+ ft-lbs pretty easy.
I ended up putting a Trick Flow Specialties Stage 1 roller in mine with the iron GT-40 heads. Sounds good running, haven't had the chance to drive it yet. I didn't set out to build a monster, just a fun ride. Because of the popularity, there is lots and lots of info on strokers to be found on line. You can even find reasonable dyno info if you wade through the crazies that say they ran in the 10's simply by removing the air filter.
I am not sure why throw used parts at reb Why throw used parts in an engine that is being rebuilt ? A carb or dizzy maybe but internals doesn't sound like a good idea at all.
Used hyd roller cams are no big deal. You can reuse roller lifters on a new roller cam with no issues. You need to come out from under that flat tappet and see there is a whole new world out there. I buy a lot of used roller cams for street use and racing. My avatar ran 9's for 2 years with a used crane roller cam I bought from a swap meet.
With Ford roller cams you can use new roller lifters with a used cam, used rollers on a new cam or used rollers on the used cam if you know and resuse the used roller on the same lobe it came off. Which is really sketchy unless you take it out yourself and keep it straight. I ran a 2 times used (I was the 3rd owner) cam for over 45,000 miles without issue..
I installed used roller lifters on a new X303 cam in a '95 351 Windsor roller block.... No problems!....