Just wondering if there is a better option out there for me. My slave cylinder has failed twice in 4 years. I'm using the Wilwood pull type slave Part Number 260-1333. I have not disassembled them to see exactly what is failing. It appears to be the o-ring on the piston. There doesn't seem to be anything goofy going on, its mounted correctly and pulling straight. I have spherical ends on both mounting points to prevent any possible binding. I'm using Dot 3 fluid and their matching .750" master cylinder. Here is a link to the part with specs. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-260-1333-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-Pull-Type,63500.html
Word on the street is the bore of those cylinders isn't super smooth and prematurely wears out the O ring. Some have bored the cylinder and pressed in a brass sleeve. That may or may not have anything to do with what you have going on. I thought you had a hydraulic throw out bearing?? -Abone.
I use the speedway version which is a purple CNC. I have a ujoint in the pull shaft so it doesn't force it against the bore as much during the length of the stroke.
Im using the same one on my 32. I went thru two of them because I did not mount them correctly. I rebuilt a bracket to get a good straight stroke on it and have not had a problem in 5500 miles. The bore on these units is alum. so if you have any type of a bind the piston galls the alum. cylinder and whammo no clutch.
Wow, was this timely. Just started having trouble with mine yesterday. I could not get into gear with the motor running. I'm only getting 3/4 of an inch stroke on the slave. Is this the problem you are having?
Well I had no pedal last weekend when I went to drive mine after sitting a couple weeks. I filled up the master and it pumped up enough for me to drive it for the day but it had a puddle under it. Same as last time.
It has a pretty straight pull and a heims end on each end, I got probably 15,000 miles out of this one.
I'm gonna pull this one apart and have a look at the bore. They sell a rebuild kit which leads me to believe they are aware of a reliability issue. I wasn't going to risk a hydraulic throw out bearing with as much of a pain in the ass the trans/clutch removal is with that TKO shoehorned in there. So I went with an equally un reliable slave.....
I've been using the Black Wilwood pull slave on a conversion to put the clutch arm on the right side for A's 32's and 34's with a tight space on the left with dual floor pedals and have had no negative feedback about problems and I know a couple of them have lots of miles. I have 3 cars with them with no problems. My deuce pu is the latest and it works great.
That maybe something I can change on mine. I have one end mounted to my X member, so it pulls the fork straight back. I thought about mounting it on the side of the trans (TKO 600) there is even a mounting boss cast into the side of the case but that would have the slave at an angle which would still pull it but it wouldn't be straight back. The GM Fork sticks out a good bit farther than a lot of the other manufacturers which places the slave a bit closer to the exhaust than I'd like it to be but I have it wrapped and there doesn't show any heat damage or signs of it being hot. I guess I can add a heat shield and see if that will help. I'm going to replace it with another Wilwood for now and take the other ones apart and see if I can tell what's causing the failure. It started to feel funny when I was coming home from the HAMB Drags. I was just happy it was the slave as opposed to something harder to get to.
On all the speedway or CNC units, you remove the internal spring and gain travel. I had to do that to have enough travel on my 32. I went through two Wilwoods in a heartbeat and changed over to the others. The piston seal is different.
Thats good to know. Did the bore size /travel/pedal effort seem to be about the same? Mine could stand to be a bit larger bore on the slave (or smaller on the master) to gain a little more travel on the pedal end. It doesn't have a lot of pedal travel for engagement/disengagement feel now. I can drive it just fine but my wife has a hard time with it. Normally she can drive a manual shift pretty well but this one is tricky for her.
Would anyone be able to post a picture of their Hydraulic Clutch set up in a Chev application in a early Ford installation.
Also in the process to replace the leaky hydraulic throw out bearing. Pain having to rip the trans out to fix a HTOB! Have the Wilwood pull type and a Speedway push type slave. With room constraints the push type seems better in this A application with Nailhead. Didn't know the internals of the slaves were o ring seals, figured they would be chevron type seals. Maybe the way to go is with a cable which has been discussed here before. I believe Brizio sells a cable. Think it's a Mustang cable and he may modify it to work for the older jalopies.
The piston in the wilwood is cut for an o ring. The CNC uses a lip seal. Russco, I used the same bore size on both. For reduced pedal force, I would use a 5/8" bore master if you have enough slave travel. I didn't. With the 5/8 master I could push the pedal down with my hand easily. Any of the aftermarket masters will work for a clutch. It's all the same physics as brakes.
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