I have a 1405, occasionally it goes thru a short phase where I can barely keep it running. I took it all apart cleaned everything very well. Downloaded the Manual set Float to 7/16 and 15/16. Set the others as well. It occurred again after 15-18 miles. limped it home running very bad. Plugs showed a weird burn pattern. the two on the the two on the middle on one side and the two on the outside outside were noticeably darker that the others. after investigating it turns out that one side of the carb feeds those, and the other side feed the others by design of the Intake manifold. I noticed when I pump the throttle the shots of fuel are normal, but at 1200-1500 rpm One side is dribbling gas at the ventury siphon, but the other is not. Is that Normal to dribble at higher RPM? I assumed if it were it would occur from both sides. So this is what I did. Opened again, Cleaned up real good again, blew air thru all ports and anything with a hole. Verified Floats were correct again. but not sure if the adjustment is from the corner of the float or a little past to the portion that gets flatter. I decided on the Flat portion to measure on. but a 7/16 bit clears a very little bit. hanging is almost exactly 15/16 on the bottom flat area by the corner. Then I swapped the Metering rods, plunger thing, and springs from one side to the other. It is still doing the same thing. Dribble ONLY when at higher to midrange RPM. Not during Idle. I assume it should all be atomized and no dribbles. Anyone seen only one side dribble? What did fix it? David 1946 Dodge Truck, Stock 318, w/71 Duster Stock 340 High Rise intake, Edelbrock 1405 w/1427 Jets & 1457 MeteringRods (to Lean it out).
Fuel Pressure is the issue , Edlebrock is the worst for carb leak through with greater than 4 psi fuel pressure . As stated if you don't know your pissin in the wind ! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
This doesn't answer the original question, but I've noticed if my car stumbles when I turn into driveway too fast and or under heavy braking, the float bowl is sloshing over and causing the stumble - even if the float is adjusted to 7/16". My usual remedy is to lower the float a little and it seems to stop. You might try lowering your floats a little. I use the Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump (110 gph) and high-flow (.110") needle and seats at 4 1/2 - 5 lbs. pressure in my 1407 equipped, B&M 144 supercharged SBC.
Abone, should I install a fuel pressure regulator on my Deuce. I run a stock 350/vortek heads, 1406 with electric choke, Holley red label fuel pump{noisy bastard). I seem to have no trouble cruising to California three times so far @ 22 mpg, but some rodders suggest I run a fuel regulator. What say you ?
My Fuel Pressure moves around a lot between 4 and 6psi. Budget36: 15/16 is for the maximum Hang when carb is rightside up, where you bend the small tab at the Needle area. The 7/16 is for gasket to flat when carb is upside down. Montana1 you said lower floats? so maybe use a 1/2 bit instead of a 7/16 or am I going the wrong way? I feel if it were fuel pressure it would dribble from BOTH sides. but then again I did not try to swap float needles or venturi's (I did swap side to side Jet, Metering Rods, Plunger, Springs). My primary concern is: 1) Should I see a Dribble from the venturi at 1500 RPM? 2) Why only Passenger side? David
I have run Eddys in the past, 2 ,500s on a offy intake, 2 600s on a tunnel ram, 750 on a 144 blower. I do not think their should be any dribbling. Get your fuel psi regulated and stable at 4-5psi first.
I''m an Edelbrock guy so don't take this the wrong way. BUT, I don't like the way they say to measure the float setting. First, you have to have the gasket on, with the top upside down and they say to use a 7/16 drill bit. That would work IF the float hung level! It doesn't! It's always at an angle. So, I try to bend the float hanger to make it hang a little more parallel than factory does with the gasket surface of the top. Then I'll just "wing" it after I get the 7/16" measurement and make it a little more than 7/16" to lower it. The important thing is to just measure the outer end of the float with the drill bit and make sure both of them are the same height when you are done! Here is the answer for your dribble... You-Tube has all the answers and then some you don't need!
Montanai. Great advise on the floats, that is just what I used to do with mine. Fuel psi is also key. The OP sayed his jumps around. That issue will also need to be addressed .
Interesting. I have a 1406. Haven't noticed a dribble but I do have a slight stumble/miss on acceleration. I'm gonna check the floats first thing in the morning! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Your stumble on acceleration is probably not float setting. The 1406 is notorious for a stumble on anything other than a totally stock 350. The stumble usually comes from jetting too lean from the factory for even slight engine modifications. (.098 primary main jets - .075x.047 metering rods) Swap those jets and metering rods out for the factory size for the manual choke 1405 for starters. (.100 primary main jets - .070x.047 metering rods) Then see if the stumble goes away and go from there. If it's too rich, go back to the .075x.047 metering rods. It all depends on the amount of modifications done to your motor and air density. (cam, intake manifold, headers, compression, altitude, temperature, etc.)
I didn't build the motor but I believe it to be a fairly stock 327/250hp motor. I need to put a vacuum gauge on it too. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I called Edelbrock. The tech said my issue was most likely Float Needle valve or seats. Ordered and will install when they arrive. I also ordered a Mechanical Fuel Pump, my electric just will not keep more than 2 to 3 psi.
I think deathrowdave wins the prize on this one. Lots of experience with 1405/6 and fuel pressure is key, they hardly ever like more than 4-5. Also, a good pressure regulator with a gauge is important, I have found the cheap "dial a number" regulators very often do not regulate at all. Go with a good Holley or similar unit and always have a fire extinguisher on hand.
No Luck. Throwing too many parts at it to keep it. Edelbrock support says it Might be the Venturi. But they do not sell Venturi's. I will seach a bit or try to find a 1406 to replace it.
Montanal, I have another question for you about my Eddy 1406. When the car sits for more than a few days without being driven, I have to pump the footfeed several times to get fuel to light off. The air cleaner is an oval job with a K & N 2" high filter. Could the fuel be drying out of the carb with that low restriction air cleaner ? Thanks for your help.
The Edelbrock carbs are great for daily drivers and mild hot rods, but you must watch fuel pressure and keep the air bleeds clean. Those really small holes right in the front of the carb. I would shoot some carb cleaner down those holes about every 3 months and never had any issues with my carb. Also if you can isolate the heat off the manifold with a wooden or plastic spacer it helps to keep from boiling the gas in the bowl. I had all kinds of running issues on my 57 312 in hot weather in traffic until I made a 1/2 inch spacer out of marine plywood. Now I use the Summit brand carb they got from Holley and no more Edelbrock issues. It just works like an old Autolite carb or I use a quick fuel carb on my customer's builds. No complaints in over 3 years.
find a friend with a good running carb.....put it on ur car see what happens. I think you just have a bad not fixable carb
Gary, sometimes the fuel bowl boils dry after a hot shut down and it sits for a few days. I like using a carb isolator of some sort, so the heat soak doesn't boil all the gas out. But since you have an electric fuel pump, it should fill it right up before you get to the start mode. Plus, with an electric choke 1406, I think the stock jetting is just a little too lean for cold starts, especially with minor modifications. Remember, other factors come into play too, like low altitude, ethanol gas, hot garages, headers, after market air cleaner, non-stock cam, slight compression increase, etc. Sometimes the electric choke has a few issues of it's own! Personally, I don't care for the electric choke 1406, even though there are millions of them out there. Most of our Hot Rods end up with a few more modifications when we build them, thats why I prefer to start with the manual choke 1405. It comes with the richer needles and jets from the factory. That gives me a little better better starting point to begin with. Just my 2 bucks...