Anybody wanna guess how many posts there will be about using that kind of engine stand on an early flathead? Other than that, there's some impressive stuff there!
yes there will surely be some hints in that direction although auliz last build flatty supported it also, right?
lol i cringed when i saw the way the engine was mounted on the stand , but i figured i would nt say anything about it ,there s been enough said about it in past threads
Nice photos Auliz, they show the shop of a serious hot rodder. I see a large, commercial planishing hammer, lathe, some precision tools and lots of quality parts for your blown flathead project. Offenhauser heads with the fins milled off (I like the look, it is different), Ross pistons, aftermarket rods, is that an Isky 400 cam?, and that looks like a steel crank hub/balancer. Your McCulloch is either a '39-'40 as you mentioned in your other thread or it could be the variation that some say McCulloch offered at some point. The brochure I scanned shows the outlet portion of the blower (connected to the intake manifold) having exhaust heat running to it and your blower has the heat exchanger that connects to the passenger side cylinder head, then to the output side of the blower and finally to the radiator. There are two trains of thought with some believing that the exhaust heat was to aid in vaporization of the gasoline in cold weather operation and that it was thermostatically controlled and in the case of the type you have some believe it was for vaporization with others saying it was to cool the intake charge. Maybe someone out there knows for sure.
Wooden engine front suppert used. Empty block + crank is not so heavy yet, but board is there all the time (except when took pic). Potvin 400 cam. I have use in my Italmeccanica blown engine Isky 400jr. Intake runners ported and valves 1.6" pro flo. Ex. runners ported smoothly, valves 1.5" Eagle 4.25" crank. I do not know quality of those china cranks. I have used earlier early 50s mercury forged cranks. aulis
Chinese made crank???!!! Jeesus !You're game! My experience with Chinese steel has been all bad. I've heard that they use insufficient carbon in their steel. Not that I'd have a clue. I don't know how they make steel. I just know that it all seems to be shit. I hope for your sake you haven't done the wrong thing. I'd be going over every inch of it with a magnifing glass looking for splits & cracks and imperfections, if you haven't yet put it together.
AHH! I knew there had to be an explanation from someone who's shop looks as good as yours. I only work on 8BA's, but I'm gonna get one of those sidemount adapters anyway, because I'm sick and tired of installing the flywheel, clutch, and bell housing when the engine is hanging from the cherry-picker.
I do not know anything about China steel but I run a Scat crank and so far I like it. I turn it 6000 in the traps and thats pretty good for a 4 3/8 stroke.
I agree. I have made many Stroke SB and Stroke BB chevy engines and all those Scat, Eagle cranks are work fine if HP is under 600-700hp. I have sold over 20 Chrysler BB 440 source stroke kits to Finland. Only one crank broken, but that engine was racing use with BDS 8-71 + methanol,.... All those Brandons 440 source stuff has made in China. I think nearly all or all Eagle and Scat cranks are made in China. 10y ago Scat were in the court. They market USA made cranks, but stuff come from China.
I 'spose there's gotta be good and bad steel manufacturers in China, same as anywhere. Perhaps the bads outweigh the good. Scat must have done their homework to find the better ones. Good on'em. I believe there's a state authority in Queensland who tendered out steel for a bridge. Chinese steel supplier won out over a local Australian supplier. Within 18 months or so, the bloody bridge was condemed because the steel was failing! Mind you, I heard all this second hand... Perhaps an Aussie member might know a bit more about that one?
View attachment 3639845 I knew this problem. Shit. Need to "chop" magneto. I can turn angledrive little to left. There is little space between supercharger and magneto. I want to use 2 belts from crank up to supercharger. Just rebuilding one pair 2row truck waterpumps and Im gonna use this truck crank pulley too. Fluidamper is nice (and expensive), but not work with 2 belts. Need to use fluid in some another engine. I can chop angle drive maybe 8-10mm. Hope those help to get all work. I do not want to change another style ignition. Maybe fixed advance vertex/ronco/scintilla -magneto is little lower? A View attachment 3639844
I 1st thought raise the supercharger, but as I look it all over can't you just space the mag fwd a bit? I know it involves a couple machined parts but it looks like you're up to it. Scat and Eagle, 1 of the owners is a close friend of one of my classic Packard friends. They random check their metallurgy on a regular basis to ensure a quality product within their design parameters (like max HP). No worries, except I can't recall if it's scat or Eagle. There's Eagle cranks floppin around in 8 sec. cars here near Motown.
It is good to see you posting again Auliz! Great looking Flathead project! I look forward to watching you solve all of the fitment issues and turn this impressive group of parts into a strong running flathead.
Thanks. I like this new Project engine, something new for me. My Italmeccanica engine is so strong and takes very fast top RPM. I sold my Panel Delivery (1940) to Germany and 1953 panhead to Finland. Now need to built new engine before new hot rod Project (easy Project) is arrive from Iowa US to Finland. Also need to weld 5w coupe Project ready,....but engines first. Aulis nb. Yes, I know also many street racers (8 - 9sec cars in 1/4mile) who are use Eagle or Scat cranks. 4.25" stroke is long. Piston speed is huge.
Finally engine Project is continue... Italmeccanica blower engine has been working fine, but 1.5weeks ago another Navarro head was broken (outside). Those heads are 70y old and possible to rebuilt. I decided to change brand new Navarro heads. First make chambers ready and then polished before bolt on. This weekend Installed "Big" flathead pistons and rods, valves.... Oilpan is nearly ready. Need to work with it little more than normally, because this 4.25" stroke crank needs more space than 3.75 and 4.00 crank,....
Thank You Sir. Yesterday i finally get oilpan ready. 4.25" stroke makes little extra job, but now all are in and oilpan has lost little more aluminum inside. Next need to make Schiefer flywheel ready, NOS stuff, and bolt it on before can install oilpan finally. Yesterday I note that one valve quide is upper than others. I do not know why, but once more I lilfed valve out and shim spring 2mm. Maybe they have machined quide lock "bed" upper than other? If I look in In-runners, one quide is 2mm upper than others. Strange. aulis
Decided that Im not use that NOS Schiefer Alum. flywheel. Changed new teeth ring on Albro Alum. flywheel. Flywheel was in deep freezer and I BBQ ring. Clutch is 10". New pressureplate new disc. Offy heads are bigger job. Today I started to work with them. Need to "cut" 2mm from chambers. High lift cams are not work with old 40´s-50´s heads. Oilpan ready and bolted on.
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