Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

found this in my weber carb picture files . The air cleaner offered by Gennie shifter company, don't think a lot of people bought it. LARSON also offered a air cleaner more intricate looked like Fuel Injection.

This apparently is an INGLESE intake with weber DCNF carbs. Very Ferrari looking.

mike

 

Because if I don't, nobody else will.

29 truck cab. Cost me $2 at an auction in 2007.

 

$2.00, man did you get hosed !!!! LMAO, great buy, put your mask on when you rob people !! looks like the main cab body is all there and the wood parts look like they could be copied easily.. The seat box looks like a great project to redo in maple or northern ash or even hickory. How neat would that look inside all varnished up. Hoods there, windshield is there, radshell. Because its a 29 its the first year of the six and gets more room in engine bay..

How about a later 50's OHV six with 3 x 1 barrels for neato nostalgia look and a fenton header. A highboy design with model A or custom 3x2 square tube chassis. Might even be able to keep the cab org paint. 17" ( 34=35 std) and 18" early chevy 1932 wires just painted..

Think you got something there and GOLLY price was right.

mike

 

The induction is actually an Inglese setup from the 80's that used factory Ferrari/Maserati carbs and he called it the "Maserati". It used a special offset dist. mount that I didn't have, so I used an old Summer's Bros. front drive. Can't see in the pics, but it has a complete tubular chassis.

 

Could not see that summer bros front drive distributor in the other picture. Thanks for posting picture. Again I was looking at one that was for sale on ebay, just happened to bump into it looking for something else. Price was a little crazy so didn't bother even watching it. I have one of those new small electronic distributors that just clears the K & N filter in the back.

Are you running an electric fan or mechanical ?

mike lynch

 

saw this beside the road...knew it wasn't a Ford....34 Master.....has a height front end and something other on the rear.....chassie is done.....nice guy....his first comments were....you know it's a Chevy with wood - right ?
.....and he has the new wood kit for it....like a bargain to me at $5500.....think the phone # is there....about an hour North of Dallas.....

 

If its a complete wood kit, professionally made , that kit alone is worth $5500.00 .Its a 1934 Chevrolet MASTER ' DA ' series close coupled sedan. The running boards appear to be 1934-1935 chevrolet STANDARD series DC_EC.

The Master series in 1934 wildly outsold the 1934 standard series at 7--1, so access to body parts will be easier to find.

mike lynch

 

That's a nice '34, also known as a Town Sedan.

 

drivers passengers front seat. Oak frame, wood slat inserts cherry. 5 Coats of Epifanes Varnish from Holland applied by hair brush at reductions of 50%, 25%, 15% , 5%, full strength final coat. I used button head stainless steel bolts into T nuts to keep the frame together . I used a FORSTNER BIT to counter sink the back to hold the T nuts below surface height. I drilled 4...... 1/16" holes where the teeth of the T nut was to go into the wood. Best way to mount these so the teeth can sink in to the hardwood.

The slats are held in with brass wood screws, they are very fragile. I went thru a lot of boards at the lumber yard to find wood with this much character grained into it.

Because I most likely will only be using snap on cushion and back sponge filled cushions. I will take them out when going to a cruise nite. They say theres a lot of wood in chevies, I am going to show them.

mike lynch

 

Fern that's a great looking ride!

 

prepping the rear 1934-1935 Chevrolet standard series rear frame cross member. I had this dipped to remove all paint and rust, then had sand blasted for even surface to work on.

The surface was so heavily pitted I must have applied 4--6 heavy coats of high build primer, sanding after each coat to remove the rough surface orange peel look. I finally got the surface filled and smooth. Then I flipped it over and started on the underside. I applied a couple coats of regular lacquer primer in grey, scuffed out and looked for imperfections, found some on the top and a few wavy ones underside. Spot putty and small sanding block took care of them.
Set it up in driveway and sprayed Eastwoods ceramic chassis gloss black paint. After 3 days I masked off the front and did the underside . All in all I think it was a month of work besides all the waiting time for primers and paint to dry.
The gas tank covers 3/4 of this underneath, and the top has a metal panel over top called by chev , a "gas tank cover panel". If all this underneath and especially on top is covered from view, why go to all this trouble cherrying it out ????????????????

Plain and simple , I just cannot help myself, its got to be done to the best of my ability.

mike lynch

 

and here it is painted

mike lynch

 

Mike have you thought of using polyethylene glycol to "stop
" the wood from drying out.? Back in my wood turning days, PEG in a se mi solid form was used to stabilize wood turnings. As far as I can determine, PEG is not bad for us humans.
May offer longer swollen wood than just water. PEG is used to stop freezing of water tanks in motor homes over the winter. Just wondering.
Mike

 

Actually i have never thought about trying to preserve the wood in that way. I assumed that the Epifanes Varnish with 5 coats would be sufficient , and would seal the wood from humidity and any water damage. Its an interesting thought. The area I live in has a fairly high humidity year round , as I am close within 2 miles of lake Ontario.

Seeing the only water this car is ever going to see will be when it gets washed. Because I have converted the rumble seat to a trunk, I have eliminated one big source of water infiltration, which caused the foot area of the rumble seat to get consistently soaked.. The 4 side troughs ( top each side and bottom) that funnel the water out on a coupe down to the bottom and then run thru hoses in each corner of the rear floor pan to the ground.

The roadsters that came stock with a rumble seat, those same troughs , 3 of them, 1--top- 2 sides stop about 2/3 of the way down the sides, because the rumble lid pivots and the bottom side 1/3 just stops right there and dumps the water inside. The bottom doesn't exist because the rumble seat has to pivot to the open position.

I have a complete set of 4 fisher body coupe metal troughs to install, down the road.


mike lynch

 

For my fellow 1934 1935 Chevrolet standard series aficionados , here is some info you may or may not know about.

On the rear of the frame sides Chevrolet produced left and right side " gas tank cover fender support brackets ". These go about 7 " from the rear on the side, your stock frame will have 2 ...1/4" staggered holes 5--7" from the end. See 2 pictures.
What these do is bolt to side of frame and where the top bolt of the gas tank cover intersects with a matching fender bolt, they add support. Also allows you to adjust the fender and gas tank cover for a more perfect fit. I discovered a seller on ebay taking apart a 1934 chev standard series frame and had never seen these before and the holes were in the frame, so I won the auction.

I eventually made a pattern of them and took them to a water jet cutter who turned out 25 PAIR of these about 5 years ago and also bought a 3 ft brake and bent them to correct shape. The factory designed slotted hole is where the gas tank cover and fender come together

mike lynch

 

Another part for 34-35 Chevrolet standard series rarely seen for sale, is what I call SIDE OF RAD AIR BLOCKERS.

I am have a McCord top tank as a mock up and you can see that air can pass over the top as the *stock radiator top tank* would fill this area

Again I found these on ebay and won the auction for them. After owning my 3 window coupe since 1970 I had no idea they even existed. I think they get taken off and not put back on when they are removed to get to the bolts at the end of the head light mounting bars.

What they do is to block the air from BY-PASSING on the sides around the radiator. You want as much air passing THRU the radiator to cool the coolant off. I made a pattern and had 12 pair of these water jet cut out, bent and then mig welded them. So much easier the way factory does them......make die....... WHACK with press and voila nice part.

I only made the one run of these and they are gone.

mike lynch

 

found some pictures of when I constructed the wood soaking pipe and then gets converted to a steam pipe for softening the wood too bend. Wood soaks in water pipe for 4 days and steams inside pipe for hour. Pipe is ABS black plastic 4" round. Is capped at the ends and pipe plug used as pressure relief when pipe is being steamed.

The steam makers are 3 wall paper steamers with hoses and I adapted it to the ABS pipe. Making steam for an hour have to be careful you do not run out of water in the steamers !!.

I bought 11" wide NORTHERN ASH boards 1/1/4" thick and used a planner machine to shave them down to 15/16" thick., and 96" long. They were table sawed to 3 1/4" wide to fit into the pipe. The boards were marked to keep the naturel pattern in the wood lined up. Stock seat surround was 1 1/4" thick and I could not bend that with equipment I have.. I was able to handle the 15/16" with help. I made a helper bar to add leverage when pulling it around the main pattern I made. At 6' 3" and 250 even with the bar , took all my strength and weigh to pull it around the pattern.

Mention steam and old guys appear ready to clamp like maniacs, because you have a very short time to pull the steamed wood out place it in position, clamp it too start then pull it around fully to clamp it. These 2 guys S Specks on the left and Bob on right , got to be real good as this operation was done in one day, then left clamped in place for 5 days to lock in the set of the clamped wood. Once a week they would show up and a new board would be ready to pull out of the steamer.
After all the boards were steamed up over 2 months a cheap pine board was screwed to the end to keep the shape and be able to be removed waiting for the next one. last picture shows the first board with the base board that will form the bottom and tie the sides together. The wood seat back shown earlier in thread will screw to the 6" wide board near the back. All the rest will be removed. This assembly ties in to the rear door posts with a mortise and tennon joint .

This serves multiple functions.........top folds down into it and disappears. The seat back attaches to it. The sides tie to door posts together. There are other parts to this not gotten too, to complete the factory design for strength..
I may use factory setup for the seat or use the leather power articulating seats out of my 1991 cutlass supreme. The factory seat does not allow me at 6' 3" to get comfortable or sit low enough. Will deal with that when the time comes.

Want to learn about STEAM BENDING google you tube **steam bending** and you can spend many hour entertaining yourself and learn as I did.

continuing on with SHAZZBOTT my 1935 Chevrolet roadster

mike lynch

mike



[/ATTACH] View attachment 3551694

 

this what we are trying to duplicate, THE TOP HOLDER SEAT SURROUND ASSEMBLY. The Chevrolet of coarse has a big shop to do all the wood work and specialized tools. The made theirs out of 7 pieces to go around, I made mine out of one piece construction. They had SCARF joints, BIG finger joints and LAP joints to make the rear piece.

Luckily my friend Frank Agueci who runs vintage vehicle services at GM Canada, found blue prints of the wood framework and all the measurements to go with them, allowing me to get the base pattern correct. Screw this up and I am in for a lot of wasted time.

I made my rear top holder 3" deeper than stock as I was building 2, one for me and one for Glen Rarick in lafargeville NY that was stock depth.. Added depth will allow me to run 6x9 polk audio championship speakers on the bottom facing upwards.
Lets rock or some technopop or some soooooothing spa music.

mike lynch...........building SHAZZBOTT

 

]3551724[/ATTACH] continuing on. after the NORTHERN ASH boards were planned down from 1 1/4" thick to 15/16" , lined them up and put tape on to BOOK MARK the pattern in the wood so it would match when bent around the jig. One set is to be 4 boards high the other for a friend is to be 3 high as stock.

Why use northern ash as opposed to oak or maple. After reading up using google I found the ash has better stretching properties to it, allowing it to be soaked and steam bent with less chance of cracking and splitting , as oak would do. Well we did manage to crack a couple on the surface going around that really tight curve.

In retrospect it probably would have been better to use 1/2" thick and then laminate glue them together for less chance of fracture, as this stuff is not cheap.

When it comes time to make/copy the top rotted out bows, laminated seems the best way to go.

I still have the Duval windshield TOPPER that attaches to the Duval made in aluminum to construct a wood topper over the aluminum topper to straighten the curved V'ed duval to look more like a regular roadster top across the front.

Building SHAZZBOTT 1935 chev roadster one piece at a time.

NOTE.......finally found a picture of the clamped boards being squished together with wood. this is how I was able to keep everything lined up and tight after using the biscuits, not shown is the multi clamps used to pull down on the boards.

mike lynch

 

I guess there is more than one way to take 4 boards that are stacked on top of each other and make them into a really strong unit. I could have used DOWELS , I could have sunk down long 3 1/2" deck screws, but I chose to go to what I think a wood worker would use, BIRCH BISQUITS.
A friend of mine Don, found at a lawn sale a BISQUIT JOINER SAW TOOL, cheap and works. $25 later I own it.

So went to Busy Bee wood working place and bought the special gluer, the best glue on the market TITE BOND, a glue roller for flat surfaces and some little brushes. Made all the marks on the wood and the board to go on top and proceeded to make bisquit slots to match each other. After doing all that I placed bisquits in place and test fit the two together...........success . Let the gluing proceed. Think I used every clamp I have.

There is actually more wood framework to this but cannot find the pictures to ensure the surfaces are all even with each other. A year later this whole glued up assembly is still in my basement pipe clamped. Needs to be cut to fit door posts and quarter panels. One job at a time.

Sometimes you just lose your energy and steam for months on end and these builds sit with nothing happening.
Hopefully this has gone away and I can continue to get going again.

shazbott, the 35 Chevrolet roadster project

mike lynch..........canada

 

ROTABROACH ........while searching around for some missing pictures I came across this set .

In speaking one Saturday with Rick the welder, mentioned to him I wanted to fill all the holes in my 35 chevroelt frame, but using a hole saw wasn't going to work the way I want , as it gave me a pilot hole in the middle I would have to fill. Using a copper welding backer , filling the weld with MIG wire , wasn't going to be any good either, too much heat. So I posed the question to him , how can I fill the holes without getting splatter all over the place and TIG them in.

His answer is what you see here, called a ROTABROACH CUTTER SET. Apparently its used to make holes in electrical boxes. Trick to this is, that pointy spike in the middle, its spring loaded and doesn't allow the slug to get inside . Simply center punch the metal sheet or place it against the box and open a hole.

I was making frame filler slugs, of the same thickness of the frame, using my drill press and cutting fluid. I ran a drill bit down each cutter socket to get dimension, then took existing frame hole, opened it slightly with that same drill and gently tapped the slug into the frame. Used a welding magnet over top to keep it flat and TIG'd the back side. Later came back when cold and used only the TIG to fuse the slug firmly into the frame. on the front side.

I found this set on ebay and think paid less than $30 for one gently used.

mike SHAZZBOTT

 

THE DASH.........I am using a 1934 Chevrolet MASTER SERIES dash panel from a Fisher body closed car.
These dashes bolt right into 1933---1935 Chevrolet master and standard series. This roadster is a 35 standard series. It moves the gauges from the center to in front of the driver. Comes with a deep glove box, 3 spears in the center area for style or not. Also a factory cigarette lighter came as an option. Its straight across the bottom allowing an extra panel to be attached.

What I wasn't expecting was , that it was 2 inches too short for either my roadster or touring. Fits my 35 coupe perfectly. Surprise surprise !
I plan on painting the dash gloss black, with the gauges insert and the glove box a very nice satin black, plus the normal painted wood grain on the long insert. I also got my hands on a 1933 Chevrolet "master" gauges insert, that looks like milled aluminum , except its photo etched brass. Its extremely thin. I trimmed it to fit for 3 gauges all 3" only.........speedo --clock-- tachometer.. The others will be placed into a floor consul of some design.

Found a picture of the factory brass painted insert. Not sure how they did this, must have been a paint mask of some type. Its the only early chev to have this, the 33 chevrolet master. It has to be trimmed to fit a 34 master dash and the gauge holes opened up.

The dash butts up against the wood tie piece that joins the door posts together, nice finger joints.

mike

 

THE GAS TANK COVER PANEL, as used on 1933 1934 all body styles, 1935 coupe roadster touring only.
If you have ever had your hands on one of these panels you will know how difficult it is to do body work due to the complexity of the shape. On my coupe I ran a glass one for many years as even then 70's they were difficult to find in repairable condition. Finally in exasperation I placed a wanted ad in the 1916--54 Chevrolet section of Hemmings motor news in 1979 offering a stupid amount of money $300, was a lot back then.. With a CALL ME COLLECT if you have one.
Well son of a gun it worked , a guy ( john ? ) from OHIO called me about 2 months later, it was in the wooden crate with the correct part number stenciled on the underside in yellow numbers. Sent him the money and had transport company bring it here. HOLY COW, it was absolutely perfect, not a flaw. Scuffed the factory primer and painted it black nitro from Ditzler, their double deep black. Its been on my coupe ever since.

With the new NOS cover installed on the car I had 6 used covers in various conditions, which I put up for sale on Hemming's motor news at various prices depending of coarse on condition. The price I was being quoted to have the used ones repaired was more than double what I spent on the NOS one.

Well the telephone lit up Xmas eve and all of them went to one guy in Jekyl Island GA who specialized in 1932--1935 Chevrolet open cars. After we made the deal he asked why I had so many covers and why was I selling them ???? When I said I had purchased a NOS one, there was dead silence on the phone, think he was shocked and caught totally off guard. He started throwing prices at me and got to $2000 as I kept telling no amount of money is getting this. That was crazy money back in 1979.

So onto today and I need a gas tank cover for Shazzbott. I find one in Arizona and guy tells me will not sell to street rodder, price is $800 plus freight to New York state friend of mine. I buy it as he is telling me how great it is.
Well, it comes here in the crate he made, I know right away to take this to Enviro Techno-strip for a bath to remove anything that's not steel and any rust.

Two weeks later I get it and take it too Fawcett Motors here in Whitby to have it repaired. They have all the equipment....English wheel, power hammers, metal forming equipment. Peter examines it and shows me whats wrong and what has to be done to correctly repair and refinish the panel. Unfortunately the metal had been worked so much by whoever attempted to fix it before, it needed major surgery. He had to make a metal stamping die to form the pattern at the bottom. Similar to what was done with the cowl top. Tell him to go ahead a do it right, metal finished. I think about $1500--1800 later it was fixed beautifully. Shop rates are about $85 per hour and when you have the right equipment , makes turning out quality parts easier. Still takes time.
I took my NOS one off coupe , so he has the pattern and a profile gauge I made to insure correct shaped down the panel.

Here are the pictures of what was cut off and the new piece welded in. For some reason somebody drilled 2 .....1/2" holes right in the middle of the panel between the factory spare mounting bracket holes. The metal was stretched and we have a slight bit of oil canning in that area. Its minor , but just will not shrink down.

mike lynch............building SHAZZBOTT a 1935 Chevrolet roadster

 

hey Mike, is it possible the 33 cabriolet is a different panel. @TFoch has a glass one on his car that is short by over an inch. we thought maybe he got a standard one. but you say they are all the same?

 

Hi, no, I was referring to the generality of the design of the 33--35 Chevrolet rear cover panel, for repairing it.

The 1933 master CA is a rear cover year unto itself. I have seen them with a 2" stamped in band across the top and without.

the 1933 CC standard is a diff size separate panel, more closer to a 34-35 DC- EC standard and repos in glass say 33-35 std series.

The 1934 Chevrolet master DA series is a different rear cover panel than the 1933 master.

The exact dimensions of all of the above I do not have. Only the 34-35 standard.

The 1933 Chevrolet standard series CC which is a very low production , featuring only a 3 window coupe, with or without rumble seat and a 2 door coach.

All chevrolet Master 1933 series use the same rear gas tank cover panel...: .cabriolets..roadsters...phaetons...coupes 3 & 5w, sedans and coaches. Chevrolet built a lot of them easily outselling the 33 std series 10--1, so locating a re-buildable one is not impossible.

Trick is to find one that's going to take the least amount of work. They are out there. Seller on ebay DESOLDCAR had listed some in previous times , but be prepared to pay serious money + $1000 and more for decent one from him.

mike

 

pretty sure the width is the same, but the measurement from top to bottom that's where the 1" extra is ?
Friday june 9, You can see on the latest pictures I posted that the gas filler opening is down 2" or more from the top on the 33 master , the 33--35 std is 1/2" away from the top and the 34 master is about 3/4--1" from the top

mike

 

finally found a clear picture of a 33 master rear "gas tank cover panel". You can see that the top 2--3" has a raised band stamped in across the panel, this identifies it as a 1933 chev CA master only.

The 1933 std 1934 std and the 1935 std the wheelbase ( 107 " ) and body width is shorter and narrower than a 109" wheelbase 33 master.. which may account for the 33 cabriolets short rear panel, wrong one.

I am not sure if anybody makes a correct glass one for a 33 master. ????? If somebody makes the front and rear fenders in glass then most likely they would produce the correct 33 master pan. ? Superior .

the picture of the beige sedan best shows the rear panel

mike SHAZZBOTT the on going saga

 

the issue he had was with the width. thanks for all the great info Mike.

 

Canadians never say the word quit.
just googled 1933 Chevrolet master fiberglass body parts and came up with SUPERIOR GLASS WORKS. Its listed as 33-34 master part number 34 MO 8 at $297.00 , CURRENTLY NOT AVAILABLE

http://www.superiorglassworks.com/Gas-tank-apron-for-1933-1934-Chevrolet-Master-p/34m08.htm

picture clearly shows the body design I have been talking about with raised area across.

Might have to talk superior into making one for him ?? No matter what it is , I seem to have a way to find it.

mike...........