Event Coverage Welcome to the 2017 Meltdown Drags

the bearing are one issue. the caps are moving around are another. the two are most likely related. do you use studs?

 

What kind of crank is it and what type of bearings?

 

Eagle crank with arp studs and Clevite 77 bearings. ( factory two bolt main block )

 

If it is one of the hard cranks you may want some hard bearings to go with it.
But it looks like it had some crap go through it.
D o you have the bypass blocked off on the filter?

 

How about a stud girdle?

Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

No the bypass is not blocked off, possible that some trash got in when I had the intake off this spring.
( but ran it and changed oil and filter after )

A stud girdle may do the trick, Thanks Deuced Up

 

Looks mostly like just trash in the bearings. You told me that the temp got a good ways over 300F before the cooler, that didn't do it any favors. Since you run a stock chassis pan (shallow front, deeper rear), there would be more windage etc. in the front half, and looks like # 2 main is the most pissed off. Is your engine external balanced? Do you use a trans brake?

 

Ric

Ya she got warm 1st time out ( with out a cooler )

It is internally balanced, and I do use a trans brake.

 

Before you home it, have the machine shop check the main bore for size, and straightness. When you checked the main bearing clearances, did you use a dial bore gauge, and mic's, or good ole Plastiguage?

 

Good ole Plastigauge

When I assembled, and while taking it apart, it spins so nice and easy.

Never would have thought they looked like this.

Taking it to the machine shop tomorrow morning.

 

there looks like shiny areas on the bearing ends. it looks like the caps were moving around so much the bearing ends were rubbing together. do the caps fit tight in the registers or do they just drop in? bring the bearing with you.

 

Caps fit tight, #2 , #3 , and # 4 couldn't move them off by hand, had to lift the nose of the crank up
to shake loose.

I will bring #2 bearing along ( good idea )

 

You know I think Randall and Norb both could use a girdle.....dang Ric was that your bad voice?
I say take it to a competent machine shop and have the line bore and rod ends checked and repaired as needed.
You guys will see what that W in the 409 means.

 

Wascally Wabbit

 

You know it.
This is the best used stuff I have ever had to play with.

 

And I have to start picking on some other pray..... kinda picked over down here.

 

Ya, looks like my used stuff gets used up faster. lol

 

James is that a comment about my motor or girth? Lol!

Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

did you check the end play before you pulled the crank out. the pic of the thrust bearing raised my eyebrow. its common to see on a four speed car but not on a automatic. i forgot what you ran.

 

Brag all you want Randall.....but I am sure I put on some inches.

 

I noticed the thrust also. He's got a trans brake, so that's probably some of it.

 

Didn't check end play, running a powerglide w/brake

 

does the converter have anti ballooning plates welded to the covers both front and rear?

 

Fix it and try your foot.

 

Don't know ?, put in upgraded converter that my transmission builder recommended to use with this engine.

My guess is yes, he told me my old converter would not handle it. I will have to call him.

 

Drinking all that Nebraska beer will do that.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Do you use side mounts, or an engine plate. With solid side mounts, and a trans brake, you could have some block distortion, as the side mounts are in the same area, as the #2 main. Use a fine file to knock any burrs off the corners etc. in the main bores, and cap registers in the block, and on the caps themselves, before putting the crank back in. A small raised area/burr in these areas, can keep the caps and bearings from being fully seated, and cause irregular load areas in the bearings, and aggregate cap walk/fretting. Make sure you clean the block after the filing job. When you put the crank in, use your preferred race oil or assembly oil on the bearings, don't forget to put oil on the thrust surface of the rear main bearings, and remember your upper half rear main seal, lip to the crank case, a little weather strip glue on the seal register in the block, little oil on the seal where the crank rides. Lay the crank in, and rotate it, feeling for any tight spots. If it's smooth, then put only the front, and rear caps on, with a dab of oil under, and on top of the washer, so the nut will come up to torque smoothly. First, just sinch up the nuts, with a speed handle. Grab the counter weights and rotate the crank in a smooth continuous motion, feeling for any tight spots. If you feel one, use a plastic or rubber mallet, and seat the cap, one at a time with a wack to the top of the cap. After each individual wack, rotate the crank as before to see if the tight spot is gone. You can also try tapping the caps from the side, and sometimes caty corner helps. If all is smooth, put the center cap on, and repeat the procedure. If all is smooth, put on #2 & #4, and repeat the procedure. When all is smooth, start at the front and rear only with half your torque spec, the repeat all those procedures. If all is smooth, then go to full torque # in the same sequence, constantly checking for smooth crank rotation. This way, if and when, there is a tight spot that won't go away, you know which journal/cap it is. After she's all torque up, check for send play with a dial indicator, or pry bar, and feeler gauges. There are now, double lipped rear main seals available if your plagued with rear main leaks, or plan on using a vacuum pump, use them,

 

Running polyuethane side and trans mounts,( you may have nailed it,) I think its best to foot brake from now on and use trans brake only in emergencies.

Didn't have excessive rear main seal leakage, but already been running the double lipped rear seal.

 

post pics of both sides. if it has them they will be easy to see. the converter could be ballooning. if it is that would explain the worn out thrust bearing. the crank could be getting pushed forward. that doesn't mean all the problems are solved as it looks like you have several things going on.

 

So what are you guys seeing on the thrust? You guys getting spy photos?
I see some cap face dis color in spots....just thinking it didn't look flat when put together just some hillbilly view.