Technical ***December 2016 Banger Meet - Dear Santa, A new C block***

thanks john . slow build but fun as always . racing is a blood thing .
question : does anyone have a diagram of assemble of a cragar OHV . ill probably figure it out but help would be great .
I remember my first 4 cyl drag bike build . scared me that I would never get it back together , but we ran 7.90's so something worked ! I built two different brands & both fast .

 

actually I think I will leave it where it is , dark but no one bothers you

 

Tomorrow we go to see the "Feel good movie of the Season"

 

With lawyers, those parts are readily (steadily) interchanged.

 

Merry Christmas to all......... OK, so it's not a typical Ford 4 banger, but I posted an Ansen cross flow head & engine in the for sale section - ya just never know!

 

well apparently it is still in there .................. hmmmmmmmmmmmmm maybe its always been there !

 

Just got my ARP studs installed using a 3/16" hex wrench. Stainless steel acorn nuts eliminate the need for chrome nut cover.

 

cool stuff there

 

Chamfer the stud holes

 

X2 it is a must do on these blocks

 

they appear to be sealed

 

When your using "unforgiving" studs that stretch less than originals there is a tendency to pull ups the block very slightly around the the holes.... that is where the blown/seeping head gasket start. I just do this operation automatically along with breaking most other sharp edges in any old engine I build. It's just one of those things like sealing the block and other castings that come in contact with oil. You get better windage, and no sand leaching from the surface of the castings as well as other crud and impurities. You can use all kinds of brush on paints. I have never had much luck with spray paint ...... after years I have settled on Rust-Oleum rusty metal primer. The dries slowly and seems to adhere better than insulating lacquer like Glyptal and is cheaper too.

 

Great information there. Thank you!

 

jimski I always like to paint insides with just what you said . helps drain back & dirt leaching out of cast iron .

 

I have a basically stock a banger I use shelsley medium oil in. It's a bit noisy when warm. Does any one have a reason I should not use and oil stabiliser additive to see if it helps or not?

 

Go to straight 30W and if it's still rattles rebuild it. Penrite makes good stuff but not really the best for hunt, spit, and hope oiling systems. IMHO

 

That's funny!!
Thanks Bluto I needed a good laugh

 

Or you could take it part and have the pistons knurled then pull the wrist pins and tap on their bosses in the piston maybe a set of 'ten up' rings adjust the valve lash a little tighter, if that don't work add some sawdust, keep working and you will eventually get rid of that rattle.
Merry Christmas from the whiner on the recliner

 

Thanks guys, if time and money permitted I would rebuild it but I'm just trying to drive it without causing any damage. It runs fine otherwise. I have used this stabiliser before in overhead valve v8's with good results, the question was more aimed at any one who may have used it in a banger and just double checking it won't attack the Babbitt or anything nasty like that. Buy the way here is my home made manifold and the down draft I am running.

 

If you suspect the motor is going away...... not much will fix that but you. It is always cheaper to attend to problems early and correctly ...... Listen closely to the motor. AND see if you can figure out what the problem is. I use a cut-down broomstick .... place it against various parts of the motor and next to your ear.

Or just drive it till it grenades ..... I have never seen any repair self-heal.

 

Wardog, did you drop the pan and check the bearing clearance on rods and mains ? Then check clearance on valves. These A's are hard to kill !


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I'm with Bill; check the big ends.

 

center main is usually first to go

 

One time a kid working for me came walking in with a dead rat by the tail...... My response..... GET THAT F'N THING OUTTA HERE! and he says" I just want to know what killed it" I say "WHAT DO I LOOK LIKE THE RAT CORONER? GET IT OUTTA MY SHOP!!!

Point is There is nothing in a can bottle or anything else that allows you to reverse damage! HONEST and you might just hurt it really bad by getting a few more minutes out of the motor. Sorry that's the truth. I have spare motors for almost all our stuff. Except the Ford A. BUT only because I just drive it and not hop it up. Honest when I want to go fast I drive one of our fast cars. The Ford is a good car within it's limits. It's wonderful to drive not easy to stop. AND that's how it is. No offense to you guys but you all know that. They wear out petty quickly it you hop them up and push them hard. Synthetic oils and even multi grade oil have no place in a babbit motor.

 

my motor is inserts but I use VR1 . drive it as a daily driver . works good for me .....

jim , didn't know you had an A

 

Steve

You remember this...




It's for sale

 

I just love wooden wagons! Looks like a nice one Bluto!

 

I love the 31 too, but we have so much STUFF. And here they don't like mechanical brakes much. AND I really refuse to modify them to juice To me it's much like driving a VW 36hp bus.

 

Thanks for the reply's guys.

This oil is supposed to be a multigrade version of a 40 weight.

I recently took the sump off to clean the pan and under the baffle, I also removed and cleaned the oil pump screen. While I was at it I had a good look around and by hand I could not feel any movement in the big ends or mains although I didn't remove any caps or the side plate . I was pleasantly surprised to see how clean it was.

Even more recently (about 200 miles ago) I replaced the head gasket and didn't see anything that was worrying.

I have listened to the running engine after a drive with a large screwdriver, the sound is intermittent and dull but seems to be most noticeable up at the cylinders on the opposite side to the cam.

I have spoken to local Model A restorers who assure me they're engines rattle and make noise and its ok.

I'm not even sure if I should be worried in fact I was more worried when I saw the warning about silver bearings on the bottle which is what made me to ask the question in the first place, more to check I was not going to cause a problem.

 

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