Technical Question on 327 motor and 4 speed Muncie for c20 truck

Just a few "observations" on my part; I'm NOT trying to discourage you. Holley 4 barrel double pumper (?-not the best best for gas mileage); a single/open plenum intake (not the best for low end torque-great for high RPM); is that a 9 inch FORD rearend (front bearing support- but there's so much grease/grime/leaks it's hard to see/tell)? There's a big pulley on a fairly new looking alternator (big pulley-old drag racers trick to slow the alternator speed down), a new fuel pump, and a clutch fan. Course the headers and chambered style mufflers. OK, now with California's regs on emissions, will there be any problems registering the truck? Compound low trans; is the clutch good? HEAVY trans to R and R for clutch work. The heated/collapsed rear springs might not be the best for any heavy loads. Wheels and tires look fairly new. I like the years you're looking at. It almost looks like Jim Rockford's "place on the beach" from the Rockford Files TV show. A lot of cleaning and hopefully, minor repair work, and it could be a good start for a truck. Does the "girl" like the truck? That could be the biggest issue. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Cheap truck just need cleaning. Registration for a 3/4 ton. Going to be $110 california. That what mine is anyways. Anything is fixable here on it and all consider time and money. Depend on were you put your money. Like rebuild carb kit. Most expensive will be brakes. You can always make it a half ton if you decide to keep it. I have a buddy that has a 65 c20 but made it a 6 lug. Long bed is good for tossing anything into it.

 

Any C20 or C30 that old will need some sorting out. Parts are quite available as far as electrical and mechanical stuff, patch panels too. Brakes, leave them alone, just rebuild what needs to be done and maybe hang a dual master (from a '67 truck is fine) on it.

If that truck was by me, it would be sitting in my driveway.

 

How about http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/cto/5759399196.html

 

Interesting and good points. The current owner said the guy before had the motor set up as a race engine. Is that rear end different than stock from what you can tell in the photo?

I love the height of the truck it's perfect in my opinion. Plenty of clearance and not too low where it looks like a low rider. It felt fine but we drove on a smooth road.

 

Thanks yea I think it's fine as is for now if I get it to idle a bit better and fix the brakes. It will get low miles but driven enough locally so hopefully the other stuff will hold up for a bit.

 

Thanks for the advice!

 

Lucky for her, he could've liked Rochester carbs!

 

Going to be fun learning to drive a manual transmission in something like that. I learned in a 72 C10 with a three on the tree.....

 

Set up as a race engine?
Highly Doubt it..
Is like the people that claim their motors are "Special corvette motors"
If it is in fact an engine that was worked over, you might end up with a very temperamental and not street friendly engine . Something to consider specially if your lady friend will be sharing drivung duty with you

 

Race engine... what a broad term, could mean anything. You are better off with a stock cammed engine in that truck. Being a C20 already, manual steering and the 4-speed will keep you busy enough.

 

Really should pin him down, ask him if it's a 3/4 race or a full race engine.

 

It's not a Ford 9" you can see that it's a full floating 8 bolt rear which is the stock type. If it's the OE gearing most likely it's 4.10 or 4.56

 

I doubt it's a full race engine and I doubt the guy selling it would even know.

 

Anyone think I'll be ok to park it on the rocks and work on it there. Maybe prop plywood and then a floor jack and small pieces of wood and the floor jacks on them? It's on a slight incline though.

Unfortunately my 53 Chevy is in the garage and I don't want to take it out and start projects on a truck that might extend more than one day.



The other option is to move crap from the side of the yard that isn't mine and flat ground but still rocks.

 

I've just not seen a front bearing retainer setup on a GM car/smaller truck rear end, but there are probably some on the big trucks. And like I said, too much grease and grime, and a limited photo to really ID the rear end. I learn something everyday here on the HAMB; it's a great place for exchange of information! So far, the "white truck" has my vote. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Thanks the white one could be better but there could be surprises. Phoenix is quite far and not sure I can convince anyone to go out there with me. It would be better to trailer it back I'm sure and that would add a lot to the cost.

 

DDD, Your words hit the nail on the head.
Sellers can sniff out a buyer, with great success, those who are not fully aware of mechanical issues, or costs to repair.
Spend a few bucks more, take your time, buy something that won't be an ongoing azz ache after you plunk down the cash.
We certainly don't want another "mystery vehicle" that whistles to you, do we ?
P.S., I'm as old as dirt, have driven stick all my life.
I still do not enjoy sitting at a stop light, facing upward on a hill, waiting for the light to change to green, then skillfully letting out the clutch, without rolling back into the car that stopped two inches from your back bumper.
You haven't driven stick before, why look for trouble, when you can choose an automatic ?

 

Good points but i need to learn how to drive a stick though at some Point in my life. Maybe now is an ok time.

 

WHY ? Your chances of success with stick would be much better in a location, flat as a table top.

 

True but Most places I will drive the truck are flat. I live on a big hill though.

 

Sorry but that is not a Chevy C20 truck. It looks and sounds like the rare MONEY PIT model to me .

 

Hmmm anything I should check for or ask again just to be sure?

 

You said the brakes are bad, terrible exhaust system, motor won't idle, leaks, old HD 4 speed and you can't drive a stick, suspension/ springs are shot, shocks look bottomed out , parts, tires, etc are more expensive and harder to find for C20 ,and it will ride like a 3/4 ton. How's that for starters ! You say you don't have a good place to work on it and it needs plenty of work. MY advice would be to spend more in the beginning and buy a much nicer mechanical truck and enjoy it more. Remember , I have never practiced what I preach.

 

This is another "find the whistle in my Powerglide" thread.

 

I don't understand the "you can't learn to drive a standard in a hilly area" crowd. I learned in the mountains, if you want a standard buy one and figure it out! Quit coming here looking for everyone's approval and buy the truck you want for what you are comfortable paying, if someone doesn't like it then fuck them!!


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If you are stuck on spending 2 to 3 grand, why not look at the 73 to 88 half ton Chevys and GMCs. There was a bunch more of them made, they ride better and have a much more modern suspension, usually come with disc brakes, have a variety of engines and transmissions, can be converted over from stick to auto or auto to stick quite easily, you can find parts in most junk yards, and you can find one for that kind of money that does not need immediate major repairs, just a thought.
By the way, I think we all laid on dirt and gravel at one time or another pursuing our hobby.

 

Yes sir, I agree with 47 ragtop and hotrod1948.
Azz aches have found me, have sought me out, all my life.
I refuse to give self inflicted azz aches a free 4 lane highway up to my bun.
Find a nicely cared for truck (they are out there).

 

Yea all good things I should consider. I like the 63-66 body or the 53-59 Chevy trucks. I don't really want anything outside those years for at least now.

 

I see the point in spending more to have less issues. It's hard for me to look in far away places for a few
reasons so I'll have to continue being patient. I appreciate people's advice and will consider all of it.