Technical Is Rustolem good enough to paint a chassis?

Rustoleum, shot thru a gun, 7 parts rustoleum, 2 parts acetone, 1/2 part valspar enamel hardener.

I prefer Valspar to Rustoleum, but its about the same, it holds up well on equipment, no reason it won't hold well on your frame. I just mix gloss and flat to get the sheen on chassis black.

 

Thank you for all of the replies! I think I will be using Rustoleum now!

 

I know it's not a hotrod but I did my Avalanche frame in satin black rustoleum brush on. It peels every year and I have to scrape it all and reapply. I didn't start on fresh steel though as the frame comes painted from gm and mine had a good amount of surface rust areas on it.


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If powdercoat is coming off, it wasn't applied right. To get maximum durability, it needs a surface with 'tooth' which is why the good coaters fully sandblast parts before coating. Coating over mill-finish steel can result in it peeling off in sheets if it gets damaged, usually a problem with production OEM coaters who don't fully blast the surface if at all. The surface also needs to be absolutely dry and oil-free, another reason for blasting.

Applied right, the problem isn't that it might peel, but how to remove it if you need it off...

 

I used black engine paint for my AD chassis. As long as it's clean, Rustoleum will work fine. I would brush it on rather than spray.

 

Rustoleum..I used the yellow primer and the Black..43 years ago and has held up very well, cleans easily.

 

I'm doing a frame off on my '55 Chevy big window truck and I'm spending big money (for my budget) on the paint. But it's going to be a driver so I plan to use Rustoleum on the frame. BUT, have you used their Hammertone finish? It's a weird paint in that it start to get tacky almost immediately. I THINK that's how the hammer finish develops. I did a wooden workbench top with it and it couldn't be harder.

I also tried a couple spots on my truck frame with no, none, nada in the way of prep, just rolled it on with a 79 cent foam roller from Home Cheapo. 3 years later it never peeled, faded, nothing. Hard as a rock.

 

I've had many parts powder coated over the years, never had anything lift, prep is very important.

 

The hardener must do it. Normally it takes months to get where spilled oil or gas won't remove it or wrinkle it.

 

." BUT, have you used their Hammertone finish? It's a weird paint in that it start to get tacky almost immediately."

A friend did his 40 frame with that a few years ago, still looks good today.

 

I've actually used lots of this for engine and suspension paint over the years. The stuff is just about as tough as you can imagine, and seems to hold up forever.

 

Powder coat is great, but it's just one of many choices for a frame or anything else. I've never seen or heard of it coming off in sheets from a rock chip. But IF it did, it wasn't applied correctly.

 

I read this whole thread, I've used rustolem on chassis parts and things of that nature, and it works fine. But I have always thought about painting one of my work trucks (75 chev.) with it. I didn't know how it would react with say dupont hardner etc. Does it cure faster with the hardner? and does it lay down as good as the poly paints and have the shine of poly paints with the hardner? does it fade as bad with the hardner added? (didn't mean to hyjack your thread) just wondering.

 

I used Chassis and Rollbar paint. It comes in a rattle can at most auto parts stores (auto zone, oreilly, Pep boys, etc). It is dry to the touch in an couple hours but the directions say to let it cure for 7 days. It is quite durable so far.

 

I painted a truck frame about 25 years ago with Tremclad, which I think is the same as Rustoleum. It has hel up quite well. A serious restorer I know use Tremclad mixed 4 parts flat and 1 part gloss and it looks absolutely perfect as OEM coating.

 

Yes. But I've used Napa's 395A for decades. It's never failed.

 

I also use the Rustoleum with either DuPont or the Napa brand hardener added, then baked in the FL sun, makes a nice tough finish. The hardener makes a world of difference.

 

we use rustoleum industrial ayklyd enamel diluted for spraying with hardener on semi truck frames and undercarriages on the trailers and it holds up real good we get about 4 years before we have to blast and repaint and this is hauling thru a quarry and on the highways year round in Chicago , we put 3-4 thin coats on and let it dry a day between coats

 

Damp Proof primer , then top coat with semi gloss black and it's for life

 

Hi,
I'm new here, and started a frame off on a 66 c10. I landed here for tips, advice, etc.... lots of good stuff! Well, I took it down to the frame (well cleaned, primed) and have 2 coats of rustoleum 7777 sprayed on..... it looks great! Problem is, it doesn't seem very durable, I can scratch the paint off with my fingernail along the edges. I sprayed with a 5 parts paint, 2 acetone, .5 hardener. Haven't gone any further cause I feel it will look like crap before I get done. Any suggestions?

 

Anything is better then Bedliner.

 

Eastwood Chassis Black. Spray or brush. Pretty durable, economical and easy to touch up.

 

Paint right over the rustoleum with Chassis Black?
Lots of people here liked the rustoleum.... figured I did something wrong.

 

Old thread. But I’d say yes. Do it and don’t look back.

 

I've had good results with Rustoleum satin black. The paint covers well and it's easy to touch up. For a driver type of build it would be fine...

 

How long are you letting it cure before your test of durable?
Reason being, I have only used a splash of urethane in the 7777 to thin it enough to spray.... It'll take about 3 days to dry in anything but warm western NY... I Mite give The Hardner a shot though now that I read that....

 

It's been 2 weeks now... others told me to give it time, so I did. Wondering is it needs a few more coats. Here's a couple of pics of what it is doing.

 

I went through the same thing with Rustoleum sprayed onto an old Dodge. It literally took several days before it hardened up.

 

This O/T chassis is shot in 7777 an again a splash ( no measuring here) of urethane grade reducer... That's it.
Unfortunately I believe something in your mix did something funky

 

Nice job Black Sheep. Did you nick up the frame much when you installed the fuel/brake lines etc? I've done some touch up, but you can sure see where i did it.