Technical Questions about T-bucket handling

That frame is a aftermarket t bucket frame - if the t was mine I would pull that whole front end off and call Speedway Motors and start new and fresh. Also get a trany cross member. Once that's all done tear into the rear end set up. Also get all that crap battery cable straighten out before it starts a fire. Good luck and have fun.

 

I'm with Fred on this one. Start over on the frame and suspension. Based on those welds I wouldn't drive it until it's done right. Someone tried to build a T Bucket and came up way short, and by that I mean unsafe.

 

I agree,...looks like one bolt holds the steering arm to the spindle....if that is in fact the case I wouldn't drive that bitch onto a trailer !

 

Front axle looks to be from a 64-70 Chevy van.

 

Is there any play in the steering wheel??? To the left spindle?

 

The steering arm is fine, it has two bolts, but some other areas need a rework.

 

The front spring looks stiff. If the spring doesn't have enough give to it, something else (the frame) will give. Also, that axle and big wheel/tire combo seems like a lot of unsprung weight for a light car like a T. Most kit T's have a tube axle.

Gary

 

I held back from posting because my immediate thoughts were exactly what Fred posted and I didn't want to come across as being unkind. But, if it were mine, I would save all the good stuff (engine, trans, rear end, body) and start over with a good frame with proper crossmembers.

I can see why it flexes, that center crossmember is contributing nothing to the rigidity of the frame, and there is a hell of a long distance between the front crossmember and the rear crossmember. I would also scrap that front end and put an aftermarket front end in its place.

I honestly think that is the only way you will ever feel comfortable driving it and, more importantly, be able to go safely down the road. Sorry, I just had to tell you the truth. This is not a simple patch and fix job, it needs a total rebuild.

Don

 

My money is on it being over-sprung to hell, And the softest part of the suspension being the actual frame.

 

Thanks for everyone's help, and all the great advice. I did check the alignment as advised, and while I couldn't be really precise, it looks like it's about a quarter inch of toe in. I'm going to swap out tires today, I'll put some 165s on the front, and I may even put the 215s currently on the front on the rear. I think that generic tranny crossmember that Speedway sells might be a help, I think I'll try one of those.

Don, you have nothing to apologize for, your assessment is pretty accurate. The car is poorly built, there are examples of poor workmanship all over it. I probably shouldn't have bought it, but now I have it and I'd like to improve it before I move on to something else. I won't completely redo it, but any improvement would be a... uh... improvement.

It's actually much better now than when I bought it, it was pretty much undriveable then, even at 30 mph.

Btw, anyone know if I can just unbolt the center bolt on the leaf spring and remove those three small leaves, or is there more to it? I've never disassembled a leaf spring, and I don't want to get killed by having the spring sprong me to death.

 

Don't forget the possible use of a "dead perch", that solved my handling problems of last year on my avatar, my dead perch is in my build thread.

 

Bump steer caused this on my first Model A Coupe (drag link steering), put 7 miles on the car, circa 1963.

 

Also one tie rod is missing a boot, so I wonder what parts have play (either king pins or tie rods ends).

Wow..... No comments on the sigh on the front of the car! Everyone sure is being nice. Everyone must be extra kind for Memorial Day

 

anyone know if I can just unbolt the center bolt on the leaf spring and remove those three small leaves, or is there more to it?

Yes. I believe most would suggest removing spring, put big C clamp on, and remove bolt. You may be able to do it while still connected to axle.

Thanks for answer to toe-in question. I am guessing there is no play in steering, since you have not answered that one.
How about just changing front tires. Change more than one thing at a time, and it works better, which one solved the problem.

 

If your asking if you can leave the main leaf attatched to the axle and remove leaves then yes absolutely you can but I clamp the spring, remove the nut from the center bolt then unclamp it

 

No, there doesn't seem to be much play in the steering. There was until I replaced the box with a Flaming River box. While there isn't excessive play in the steering, I'd say the car drives with a general feeling of looseness.

 

The rear end will not move side to side if you push on the body? The bushings/connections in the rear panhard bar are snug?
The front end won't move side to side if you push on the frame rails?

 

I was thinking about the rear suspension and was going to suggest taking the coilovers apart to check the shocks within. They look like overload shocks (not sure that's bad), so I'm not sure how to check the shock condition. Maybe you can get one off and see if the shocks are still good. If they are not, that could explain part of the problem.

 

Here is an example of a trans mount/gusseted crossmember from a thread about a Fleetline build. I think Marty Strode mentioned this early on as another way to strengthen chassis. Haven't found a pic of dropped tube type.

 

Bumpsteer didn't cause this , the loose nut behind the wheel who tried to drive it caused it ..JMO
dave

 

This is how I do my center C/M in the track roadster chassis.

 

"Sigh"?

 

Sign or plaque , fred

 

Didn't have my "spell check" glasses on.

 

I noticed rust on the rear panhard bar mount. Is it tight in its bracket? Usually rust indicates parts are rubbing each other, wearing away paint and showing rust.

From the pics it looks to be toed out and have positive camber as well. If Caster is off that would mean everything alignment wise needs correction.

Hard to tell from pics, but pretty certain it needs a good alignment and a few of the brackets need additional bracing.

I agree the trans crossmember is no Bueno as well.

 

Ya know, it is really refreshing to see someone who posts something like this, and who actually takes criticism well. That is really very cool of you.

It's always touchy to tell someone that something they have isn't perfect, but we would be doing the asker a disservice if we didn't try to be completely honest. A lot of guys get all huffy and insulted, you did not.

I think Fred's suggestion is the best....pull the body off and start from scratch and see what is right and what is wrong. It might be a little more work initially, but you will end up with a car you want to drive.

Don

 

This ^^^ is the best method for a centre x-member . Drop it down as deep as possible, then run straight pieces back to the rails [and preferably forward as well]
What you get is effectively an inverted pyramid shape. It is one of the best methods to get torsional stiffness in a ladder frame.
Deep front and rear x-members with spreader bars at each end also help a lot.

 

Dave, you're killing me, hahahaha.

 

the rear shocks look like part of a McPherson strut.? Just looks wrong, what does top of shock look like? a stud w/a nut?

Also google some information about front radius rods: the drag link DOES NOT have to be parallel with the ground: the points of the rear of the radius rod cannot conflict with the arc of the drag link.

Marty help them understand. I know what I mean, but words fail me.

 

OK Bob, There is an excellent drawing on drag link steering in the Pete & Jakes Catalog. It shows lines through the steering arm back to the pivot point on the rear of the radius rod, along with the relationship of the drag link at the point that they converge. Maybe I can dig the catalog out and post a picture. I can well understand why the OP wants to try and solve the problem, rather than tear the car totally apart. If he can make it drive OK, he can clean up the plumbing, and sanitize the underside. For those of us that have been doing this for years, have the space, tools and knowledge, it would be an easy choice. I wish him luck, and look forward to seeing how things work out.