Hot Rods Holy Crap..... I joined the Deuce club!!

Both of my 32 roadsters are factory drilled for the fenders but both are 40's styled highboys.
My 32 BB Stake Truck wears its fenders. You're on the right track, the coupe is looking better and when its on its new chassis it'll look really good.

The fenders may add a little handling difference, so a ride difference may be noticed.
Keep the old chassis and turn it back into a traditional wishbone suspended back up.

 

Larry,

I agree with you, it'll likely spend most of it's time full fendered, I'd just like to try to set it up so it could be run either way without a lot of issues. 3 holes in the frame for the front fenders probably wouldn't be a big deal, the bigger challenge will be the body holes for the rear fenders.

Allan

 

Starting to look a heck of a lot better. I'm looking forward to driving this in the spring.



Allan

 

Yes it is. Good move.

 

I'd run fenders. That being said, is that a Highboy frame you bought? No fender holes, and in the picture it looks like the Hairpin is mounted right where the front fender needs to be.

 

It is. The hairpin mounts will be added under the frame (they were there and relocated by the previous owner). I'm going to keep the bosses in the frame in case I ever want to run it as a highboy. The five holes for the front fenders on each side are in process.

Allan.

 

Starting to get ready to plant the body back onto the new chassis and the generator location won't work with the hood sides. The engine has 2-1/2" '63 rams horn exhaust manifolds. Is there a mounting bracket available to move it above the valve cover into the engine compartment?



Thanks in advance.

Allan

 

I would be working towards making it look like this
Pictures from this thread:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1932-ford-5w-build-thread.994231/

And I wouldn't be happy till it was there. Larry

 

Larry, those look chopped....... as mentioned previously this is one of the remaining three that aren't. lol

 

Yes, they are. Perfectly so. Study the pictures in the thread those pictures came from. The first ones are of the car unchopped, then the chopped version.
I bet you might change your mind.
If I had your car I think I'd own it 2 days and be starting the chop.

 

Allan, Paul Horton at Welder's Series sells an alternator bracket kits that mounts alternator more towards centreline of engine, and up. Take a look at their site. Or give them a call

 

Thanks. I'll look into that.

Allan

 

A bit of an update.
I'll be running this '58 Fuel Injection unit (it's in line for a rebuild in early February). The 283 it'll be going on has a 327 350hp cam in it. I need vacuum of 14 in Hg or more for the Fuel Injection to run properly. Would anyone be able to advise whether that engine combination would provide that or more vacuum?



I actually had the foresight to have the firewall recessed for the tach cable.



I also picked up some Aldan 250# coil overs for a great price.



Did Stewart Warner make a mechanical tach in the early 60's with provision for lighting?

Thanks in advance.

 

you should have plenty of vacuum with that cam. my guess would be around 16.

 

Thanks!

 

Frame looks a lot different with a little paint.



The frame came with rear 15x7 Vintique wheels with a little over a 4" back spacing. With the '57 9" and 235 75 15 tires on the rims it looks like the fenders will rub. Does anyone happen to know if this rim is available with a 5" back spacing, or have a suggestion for a tire size that will work with the 4" back spacing. The 235 75 has a lot of "bulge" on the sidewall but the height of the tire fits the wheel opening really nicely.



Thanks in advance.

Allan

 

I think that 225/75 -15 tires will be the fit you need. Take a look at some tire size charts and see the section widths and all that.

 

A little more progress.



Allan

 

Getting closer.

 

Getting there......



Allan

 

You are doing great!
Keep workin'
Al

 

It's looking mighty fine there Al. Next time you come to St. Louis how about driving it down?

 

Dave,
I'd definitely need a new seat before I made that trek! lol

 

Al, just saw that you are going to use an early FI unit on the car. These early units were prone to drip fuel into a cyl. and when fired up they would bend a rod. There is a fix for it that involves putting a check ball and spring in the spider under the plenum. Ask your rebuilder about it. D

 

Looking great!!! Amazing transformation....keep going...spring is right around the corner!!

 

Thanks for the heads up. I'll talk to him about it. He has a great reputation in the Corvette world for rebuilding Rochester Fuel Injection units.

Allan

 

Al, what's the plan for the original frame? Is it for sale or maybe trade?

Thanks,
Steve

 

It's already been sold. Sorry.

 

Don't know what you did about the Generator or Alternator mount, but I run mine off the rear U Joint with a pulley then the belt to the Alternator on a bracket. Works real well, and turns on at 18 mph.