Technical 8BA in a Model A

I also have this conversion to do and am following to see where it gos.

 

Here is Bubba's new website. http://www.bubbasignition.com/home.html

I think PM is a good way to contact him.

 

NB141,
You're welcome glad I can help. I also took the Malory distributor out and put a Bubba's in. I love it, it's the best thing you can do a flathead. They are less than $200 and if you are an alliance member you get a discount, just mention it to them.

 

8ba with early intake, trimmed early generator using 8ba generator saddle, truck pumps, Mallory .

 

Here's a link to The Ford Barn with a discussion about these water pumps.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186436

Bubba is the go to guy for the Chevy/8BA distributor conversion. I use one in mine and Jim Linder at Bubba's is a great help.

 

I have one of Bubba's sbc dizzies on my 8BA (In a 31) and I think I paid about $200 for it two years ago. No core swap (He doesn't even offer that option since sbc dizzies are so plentiful). I have the points version. He also offers a pointless one for a little more. He will also modify the dizzy shaft for the two different timing covers.

 

What water pumps did you use and did you have to modify the firewall???

 

Yes, my fire wall is cut. I am not sure which water pumps I have (sorry), but my fan belt is 5/8" wide (Is that the wide or narrow belt?) and my pumps look like the ones in Pete's photo above. I did not build the engine, but I did replace the stock, crapomatic dizzy with Bubba's. I am using a Holley 4 barrel carb so the original dizzy was not compatable.

I do not mean to take this thread in a different direction. I was originally responding to the question about the cost of a Bubba dizzy.

 

Hey guys didn't mean to drop out of the conversation last night , I'm just an old guy that went to bed Anyway got some pics of the spacer its a machined block with a male an female tang to keep it in place , a slot in the middle to slide up &. down the pics are the best I could do without taking it apart . Mine sets the gen 1-3/8 forward but yours could differ . I'm going to machine the front pulley off , it clears now but you need to raise the engine to mount the belt , not good along side the road .

 

8ba in a 29 coupe,no cut firewall,no moved rad,stock hood. No problem. Electric fan,but if I wanted to spend some time i could fit a mechanical.

 

I like that you used the mopar alternator, I am in the process of using one just for clearance for a multicarb intake. I too, had to make a spacer like "no stinkin windows" did.

 

Bader2, what pulley did you end up using for the alt? I used a 5/8" pulley from speedway, heavily modified.

 

What sort of modifications did you make to the pulley?

 

I machined the original mopar pulley that I pulled off. Removed all traces of the pulley accept for the hub that presses on the alt. shaft. Bored out the speedway pulley to a press fit with the original mopar hub. Some material had to be removed from the back side of the pulley for belt alignment. 90% planning, 10% work.

 

If I'm not mistaken the Mopar shaft is .50" and the GM shaft is .67". Is that correct?

 

My mopar alt. shaft is .670, not sure what GM is. I would bet smaller.

 

Don't remember,just know it wasn't real difficult,and it works,got two done like that.

 

Ok,just went out and took a look. One has the mopar pulley machined off till it was just a hub,then the speedway pulley was bored out,the two pressed together and welded. The other was just machined to fit,without the mopar hub and all the dicking around. don't remember where I got the easy one,but probly from my alt rebuild guy,and yeah Chevy is likely smaller,so bore it to mopar specs,and your good to go!

 

I never gave it much thought but that Mopar alternator pretty well blends in with the rest of the engine and doesn't stick out like a sore thumb.

 

Definitely doesn't look like you stole it off a tractor,like the gm.

 

Bader 2 , what intake and carb were you running on the 29 a ba

 

Stock aluminum 8ba with a holley 94.

 

Bader 2 , that's similar to what I have except my intake has a lot of rear fall , I've considered trimming the manifold level or making a wedge spacer , did you have to do either one . my thinking is the carb should set level

 

When the car sits on a 5 degree rake,carb should be level.

 

Right but my intake has built in rake because it a 49 -53 the engine sets at more of a angle , is the top of your intake and bottom parallel? My engine block sets at the correct angle but when the intake is set its off . Do you know if stock intakes very in angle ?

 

All the recent repro early pumps are oilless. Adaptation of the early generator to 8BA type setup allows the forward row belt and the forward crank sheave to be deleted, shortening engine significantly but not quite as short as a single row 59. Eliminating the sheave leaves only Pulleys needed for big belt: All the '49's used big belt, and there's more than one diameter of gen pulley available in big belt. You also need to allow for lower pulley differences...'49's had the seal area integral with pulley, later ones had it made as a separate part. Adapting either way is easy enough.
Early pumps will put the belt back into the casting covering the distributor shaft, and of course require some simple hole plugging to eliminate the bypass. I've never checked into how deep the interference is, meaning whether you could grind enough clearance, but I doubt it as there isn't much metal in the front covers there.

 

Mine leans forward,it's from a 49 truck.

 

I'm not sure where my engine came from car or truck , some one once said boat , it has a lot of slant . I thought maybe in a truck it might set closer to level , like early rails

 

I remember tweeking the firewall a little bit. The stock 3 blade fan just fits. I used the car pumps, and