Can anyone remember what length blower snout they used on their early Hemi? I,ve got a 354 block here with a Weiand blower intake, I usually bolt the bottom pulley on then use a straight edge to determine the length of the snout but my engine is not built up yet but I,d like to get the blower together.I have a 6 inch snout here which I can shorten.
This is a 392 with a Weiand intake, currently setup with a 2" drive but have had a 3" on this snout, crank pulley was bolted directly on the hub. Let me know if you want any other measurements .
I would like to know something. How far is it from the block to the farthest part the sticks out front on your motor C69A? Maybe measure from the area next to the water pump. I need to mock up my motor in my frame and figure out how close it needs to be to the radiator. Thanks. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
Lots of things impact the alignment. Best you mock it all up then do what's necessary. I've seen variations in the blower cases such that one sat in a different place relative to another same manufacturer. No big deal just mock it up and check with big straight edge.
4 3/4 inches. i do run a crank trigger so subtract 1/4 inch if you don't run one. i also run a three inch belt. remember a 6-71 and 8-71 are the same case. the 8-71 uses a 1 inch spacer between the case and front cover to accept the longer rotors. this needs to be factored in.
I ran a BB Chev water pump which was 7 1/4" out from the front of the block, had about 3/4" clearance on the radiator.
This was in a 32 Ford frame with model A body. Front x member was moved forward 2" Firewall was not cut.
I have seen more 8/71's with the 1" added to the back side so as not to change the relationship of the pulley drives without added spacing
Yes thanks. I was at Pete and Jakes yesterday and took a measurement off of a hemi they had. Around 4 3/4 drive with 9" total stick out from flat surface on the block. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
I'm at the mock up stage as well, I'm running a fluid damper already have the blower pulleys but I need to run 2 single belts. (It's not a race car, I want AC in this one) I'm thinking I sandwich the regular belt pullies between the rear blower pulley and the fluid damper. But if I'm wrong please chime in this is my first Hemi build and first blower build so I'm learning on the go
I'm on the same learning curve and have just finished my blower drive following peoples advice here on the Hamb and at three major blower drive suppliers, It became fairly clear at the start who new what they were talking about, even though it seemed wrong to me at the time. I was told not to run a harmonic balancer and to use a hub. This method uses the blower belt to remove any harmonics from the engine. I purchased a hub and single vee bottom pulley from Alky Diggers and it fitted perfectly. They also have 2 vee available. The engine is a 354 with a Weiand Manifold and 671. I have yet to fit the timing cover but the picture will explain it all. If you still want to use a Harmonic balancer make sure it is rated/designed to be used with a blower otherwise bad things will happen. Peter
No I got it from Summit, I was way way cheaper to buy the polished version rather than trying to polish or get it polished myself. Peter
I've got the Weiand and a 6-71 on a 354 as well. I'm not necessarily sure about the harmonic balancer as far as wanting to use it, but my machine shop/ engine builder included it with the parts we ordered so I assumed it was necessary, fluid damper has a great rep. I've heard great things about Alky diggers from guys in the Southeast Gassers, so I will talk to them. As far as timing cover and water pump etc. I already have the Hot Heads Chevy conversion
The Jalopy Journal
