Technical Sbc overheating issues possibly due to lake headers

I guess I have time for another bowl of popcorn. I'll check in later tonight to see if you got it figured out.

 

Mind popping a bowl for me I don't think we are going to a car show any time soon

 

did you get around to adjusting the carb yet?

 

Ya know... There is a reason some of the more experienced guys are bailing on your request for help. As my old man would say "Your attitude sucks bilge water." "Just out of college" speaks volumes here. You came here asking for help and then done nothing but present yourself as an educated fool.

Drop the attitude. Show some respect. Show some initiative. Do everything these guys are suggesting to find the problem and fix it. Say please, and thankyou once in a while instead of acting like just because there is a forum where you have access to help that you are somehow entitled to it on your terms.

 

Think we found the issue.... Sounds like there is a air pocket in the engine will update later to see if this has solved the problem

 

Drill a 1/8" hole in the outside ring of the thermostat to allow water to purge through and prevent air pockets. Won't really make much difference in how the thermostat does it's job though.

If that doesn't seem to help, jack the front of the car up as you fill the radiator. And let it sit there a while as all the air works it's way to the top. Then top it off again.

 

^thats what we are doing

 

If your temp sender is in the head is it possible you pinched the feed line when you put on the new headers???

 

, MAKE shore you get ALL the air out of the Engine block , Mine keep
Going between 180 to 240 after a 30 mint drive , with medical fan , Fan shroud,
I did all the little tricks , air bleed in the top of the water pump housing ,3 or 4 Thermostat with small hole (.050 hole ,by pass hose block to pump , ( no heater) different pulley sizes , !!! still the same Problem, drove me Nut's !!!
So I took it apart Like the 7th time , I pulled the thermostat out , Fill the block all the way up to thermostat , let set over night abou 5 hrs, I had to refill again, about 1 to 2 qts , then installed thermostat , Then topped radiator off , started let it warm up !Bled the air screw at the pump , Now it says @ 190 all day long even when it's 100 out sides ,

My set up is a 1930 ford with a cheap Ebay aluminum radiator , with a 327 /365 30 over , I run about 17 initial timing @ 1000 RPM ((with a Vega converter , )) total 37 deg. 10 pound Cap

 

I am adding this link about Plug reading ,there is more the just taken a Peek !!
Click on the link

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html

 

Reading plugs can tell a lot, you can eliminate things one at a time all these suggestions can cause an issue depending on different circumstances. At least it's not an intermittent issue so you should know when you fix it

 

And I'm confident that the overheating issue will be fixed if he follows the advice given here and works his way through the list.

 

I carry a holley jet box in the trunk of the O/t and yes we do change jets at the track when we uncork the headers and put on the torque tubes , as it is a big difference in jetting and times ( up to a second and a half 3-5 Mph ) . and to rejet only takes 5-10 minutes ... and when you do not rejet it pops and snaps on deacell from being too lean . and chalks the plugs up too .

 

Pop your own on the headers


Internet diagnosis is easy if the whole story and all the facts aren't left a mystery.

Like burning valves -
Open headers don't burn valves• (Period)

Open headers do require carb rejetting richer or the cylinders will run lean • (period)

Running lean causes extreme cylinder temps and those temps will cause many problems •(period)

Bumping the timing up with open exhaust can help too.

One of the problems is burning a valve,
Overheating
Cooking the chrome off your pipes
Melting a piston
Or something in between.
The leaner the bigger and more damaging the problems.

Lean and late timing together will cook some chrome for sure

You know what Stimpy, I'm sure there are many who just uncork it to make noise. It's almost the same noise they'd be making when they say it doesn't need a jet change, it doesn't make a difference, and tell you how many don't rejet when they uncork

 

I know hemi , when I worked in the motorcycle industry when we changed to a true header vs a factory pipe often we had many people say why is mine faster and sounds meaner than my buddys with the same pipe plus his are turning blue and mine aren't and his is uncorked . they didn't know that we changed the jets as part of the pipe change as part of the deal . that was one reason why it cost more than having your buddy slap it on for you .

 

You like being beaten over the head with the stupid stick, don't you? Then you try to drag ME into it on that "other" thread...But I'm too old and wily for ya, aint I...

 

Yeah yeah, oops I forgot

 

Years ago I bought a street rod and it seemed to run hot. I questioned Walker and was told if it didn't puke the coolant to run it. The only thing that would hurt The engine was dry spots in the water jacket. Sometimes it would run 260 degrees on the highway during the summer. It had a mechanical SW heat gauge. I bought a new one and when I was changing it I discovered the insulation burned off the capillary tube. It was up against the intake manifold and picking up the outside ambient temperature. I run a 190 degree thermostat for emission reasons so on hot days it might run 210 degrees. Check your gauge. One of your buddies will loan you one for the asking. Good luck

 

Get one of these, Lisle 24610, you replace your radiator cap with this assembly and add fluid. Run the engine and the air will bubble out and fluid will take its' place, before shutting the engine off add that 'T' handle plug (shown) to seal it off or it'll fountain back up on you.

 

X2