Has anyone on here ever widened a banjo? Or, is this a bad idea?! My Model A rear has a '47 truck axle under it, but since I have the car as low as I do, the tires rub the body. I need to fix this. I can either widen the banjo (which I think I'd rather do) or swap an 8" in its place. I also thought about changing the backspacing of the rear wheels, but I don't think I'll get the space I need. 3blap.
Never heard of anyone widening a banjo but that doesn't mean that it can't be done or hasn't been done. You could swap anything into its place that you have at your disposal.
'42-8 car and '42-7 pickup are the same and the widest, with the possible exception of some of the offset banjos used in English trucks...which you aren't likely to find. The actual axles would be a MAJOR problem in widening, much more so than the bells. Only way on that that is even close to sane would be one of the late-model axle and bearing conversions. Look to spacers and wheel offsets...on a light car the bearings should be able to easily handle the extra leverage from the offset load.
Probably should've mentioned that I already have the 1.25" spacers that bolt on & have new studs. Yeah... that's kinda what I figured. I didn't know if the axles were cut/turned down with a male "button" on the cut end, then used a different axle that had a female end cut into it. Tig welded the joint... maybe smooth it out & and then sleeve over the axle & tig again. I would probably have to pay for that service... I don't have access to the machinery & don't know if could safely tig it. In the end, it might cheapest & easiest to do a swap. I wouldn't mind hanging on to this axle for future projects anyway...
What is the present width of the banjo, normally a 46 to 48 diff is too wide for a model A and there is a bit more gap between body and tyres. Are you sure it is a 46 diff. Even an earlier one should work unless you have very wide tyres.
Your wheels must be really deep and offset. You could try reversing the wheels. I did this for my car. I have an 8" with adapters so I could run my old steelies, which are reversed. Just is enough room. However the '34 body is likely a few inches wider than the A. I'm assuming the wheel opening is lower than the top tire? Tim
I can give you the side view, but I'd rather swap the axle than do some crazy body work... at this point!
I seem to have a bad memory of doing 50 Merc 15" cnters and Buick hoops getting a full off set. This led to my first fender opening modification because they didn't fit inside. Wheels looked good with the deep center but my 40 Ford rear fenders didn't survive. That was 50+ years ago so don't start picking on me now. New fenders were easy to come by back then. The Wizzard
It's not that at all, You've slammed it and even though that's not necessarily my cup of tea, I can dig it when its done right. Running low comes with its own obstacles. Having the car kill you or someone else should you loose control is avoidable. Scrub line is one, steering components contacting the ground is another. When they get slammed with tires into the windows it throws off the lines. Some think its cool, some dont but regardless The rear end width needs to be wide, too wide for it to look good from the rear. Getting the car that low requires an anti-section. Leave the widow tire relation alone and add a few inches to the bottom of the car. So how far off the ground are those two silly things ?
Yeah, things are close. The only times it's ever contacted the ground is over speed bumps, which are taken at a snail's pace. Radius rod mounts are not exiting the frame without way more severe consequences happening to the driver first.
Am I reading this wrong? Because it sounds like after the driver (you) looses control and fucks himself (yourself) up with "way more severe consequences happening to the driver first" that what ever happens to anyone else because of this out of control if of no concern. I might be wrong -
I read it the same way. Guys who TOTALLY ignore sound engineering and physics in favor of "style" are a menace to all of us. Maybe they didn't know better when they started the build and that would explain the problem. But when confronted with sound advice, and they blow it off, there is no excuse. Ray
You are. What I am saying is that the frame is not coming apart. In the case that it does, it's already over for the driver. News flash... these cars are not up to the latest safety standards. I don't even have seat belts in the car! When I built this car, I knew there were risks. I associate driving this car with riding a motorcycle. At any time, my life (as the driver) could be over in an instant. Plain and simple. I'm a firefighter by trade. I cut people out of cars several times a year... Death happens. MOST of the time, it's avoidable. Shit happens on a regular basis. Enjoy life before it's gone!
I read A LOT about bump steer when building my car. I also noted A LOT of cars that had similar designs for years with no issues. I have never had "bump steer" with this this design. I drive a bone stock 2007 Jeep Wrangler on the reg and have had more issues with that stock steering geometry "wiggling" going down the road than my sedan. Sometimes you have to try it... I'm sure in theory, it could happen. But, it hasn't.
This thread is about banjo axles... In 11 years, I've had 347 posts. If you don't like the car, keep your opinions to yourself. As I have. 3blap.