Technical Champ Halibrand rear noise

I noticed you are holding the side covers and axle tubes on with button head bolts. While this may be fine, I lost a complete ring and pinion due to the use of countersunk flat head bolts working lose. As this happened the rear got really loud. Replaced complete champ unit and used studs on side plates and axle tubes. With that said you may want o check the torque on your bolts.

 

I will definitely do both sides like you've all recommended. Yes it was a trailer baby. I'm 3rd generation owner. Grandpa had it built in 80 from Magoo's. He always had it in the shop and trailered it to car shows. Was in mint condition until he passed. My dad received the car after and within a couple years, tore it up pretty bad. No dents or anything just not kept up. Now I have it, I'm trying to do my best to please grandpa by taking care of it. I have original build receipts, magazines it was in, etc. this is very sentimental to me and don't have much to play with after supporting my family so I can't afford to go to shops. Hence one reason I want to fix this thing myself. I appreciate everyone's awesome knowledge they are throwing my way.

 

Yeah I'm at a loss. Took 4 bolts off, the axle diameter is smaller than the diameter than the "Shiny caliper backing plate" which tells me it's not holding axle in. Is there a retainer I'm not understanding to take off? The pumpkins side?

 

Also there are holes on both sides of axle tube.

 

Good advice. I know from experience that the good looking button heads do not stay tight over time unless checked often.

 

Nothing else,. need a slide hammer as bearings do get stuck with time....The holes? Don't know, they threaded?

 

Magoo drilled holes in the housing in case some oil leaked through the carrier bearing seals. Old race car trick. Those axles should come right out with an axle puller or a BFH. If you don't have one, turn a drum around and smack it carefully and the axle will come out. Can you move the axle up and down? Tap it gently and it should come loose. The caliper bracket does not hold in the bearing. Also, can you turn the axle with the wheels off the ground or is it locked up. Keep trying.

 

I can sometimes turn it backward. Frontward it locks. I don't have a drum around so will try my best. If I can't get it out I will get an axle puller tomorrow.
Good tip on flat bolts! That's where I'm starting to leak gear oil. I need to figure out the torque on those.
I guess one more question once I get the axles out.. Where do I possibly find new seals and races?

 

Looks like a 48 Ford rear housing

 

I torque mine to 35 foot pounds.
Bearing and seals for a nine inch Ford should be available at any GOOD parts store. Most bearing also have a number on them which can be used by the parts store as a cross reference.

 

Sweet. Thanks!!

 

Well guys I did what you said and I got it out!! Thanks everyone!! On my way to auto store to figure out how to take the bearing out.

 

No one stocks BCA 208F bearing. I can get a BCA 208FF. Anyone know if that will work?

 

Looking at the wheel studs it appears your rotor hat is moving around a bit on them....................................

 

http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/Documents/Bearing_Specification_Guide.pdf
the FF designation is explained on P. 101. Believe 1st F is an unground 'rib,' 2nd F is a dia. spec. Or a cage matl. callout! See the suffix table. You'll find out if the "FF" will fit.

 

Hey Pews, in this custom case it appears that the round chrome caliper bracket thingy was up against the bearing housing! Not splitting hairs, just an observation.

 

Is there a bearing retainer on the outboard side of the Chrome Caliper bracket or not?

 

Have you checked to see if there is a gear oil in the quick change? Usually when you pull and axle there is oil on it. That one looks bone dry.

 

I can't add much, but it's great that you're a third gen hot-rodder and a Magoo built car is special. Keep all that documentation, that makes it even more cool

 

Going by his pic of the rear cover removal, looks like he had "some" oil in the rear.......................

 

It looks to me like there is/was a wheel spacer between the axle flange and the rotor. Maybe to get the rotor spaced correctly to the caliper? The axle imprint has the look of those cheap cast wheel spacers.

 

I would be checking to make sure the lug nuts are not bottoming out on the studs or spacers (if used) before wheel and rotor are cinched up ........................

 

I'm all kinds of lost. Haha. The magazine that it was in says it has custom machined wheel adapters, I believe. There is really not any oil in the tube that surrounds the axle but it is greased? The chrome caliper bracket is holding the wheel bearing inside the hub. And there is gear oil in the quick change. Long story short, as I'm waiting to find the bearings, I put axle back in, removed gears and rotated them from up to down and down to up, and wow. I can barely hit 50. I touch the throttle and I'm sideways. I have much more respect for this QC than I've ever thought. You all are awesome and I can't wait to learn more and meet some folks one day.

 

Magoo made caliper brackets?

 

By the article, the front and rear rubber are the same as the pic you posted. Have they ever been changed? Do a search for threads on running tyres more than 5 - 8 years old. It gets risky with carcass separation and other things possibly happening.

 

Did oil come out when you removed the quick change gear cover? Did you refill the gear cavity after flipping the gears? I think you need a buddy who knows cars to come and help you or take the car to a shop.

 

Does the rear end "clunk" when you go into drive ?or into reverse from a standing still situation, I broke the ring gear bearing retainer on my QC with an automatic trans before it went in my Daimler Hemi powered roadster. Aluminum carrier had no radius in the corner & sheared off. still drove though ! but clunk when it went into gear. I fixed the replacement which was made the same.