Wife ordered me a rebel wiring harness for my f100 for Xmas. I can't wait to install it but I'm trying to think of ways to clean up or hide the wires that run throughout the engine bay. I can't stand that horrible plastic crap and I don't really like the look of electrical tape covering the whole section of wires. Let's see what you guys used on your rides. Thanks. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
There are several suppliers (Brillman comes to mind) that sell the old style asphalt loom. They have it in several sizes. Looks right on anything built in a traditional style. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Heat shrink tube. I found some that was about an inch diameter. It took some time and patience, but I was able to run everything that went through the firewall in one tube. Through the firewall and all the way across the front of the radiator.
I always liked the "spiral wrap" stuff. It looks neat, but is not the plastic loom. I don't have a pic to show you though, sorry!
String tie has the best look, in my opinion. Here's a link to an example. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005PQRLTC/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/187-4126208-7165511 You can find it in white, black, or a salt and pepper color, waxed or natural, to fit your application. Installation is a bit of an artisan skill, but with some practice it's quite easy. start with either a clove hitch or a lark's head, and finish it off with a square knot. It takes more time than zip ties, but string will never chafe into a wire, and it still has a classic appearance unlike zip ties or anything else plastic. Put your string ties about two inches apart and you'll be all set.
I have my starter, coil, temp, and oil pressure wires exit the firewall below ( and behind the air cleaner in this photo) the heater core hoses. Then down and across to the bellhousing. From there they travel up to the rear of the engine. The battery cables run along the inner fender. You can just make them out in the photo. The alt. wires come up from under the exhaust manifold ans do the spark plug wires.
Lacing tape is nice stuff, like you said, it has to be done right or it won't hold. Some specs allow for burning the knots on the waxed type with a hot 'iron.
[QUOTE="oldnuts, I can't stand that horrible plastic crap and I don't really like the look of electrical tape covering the whole section of wires. Let's see what you guys used on your rides. Thanks. [/QUOTE] I just used that horrible crap,thank you! HRP
http://www.johnnylawmotors.com/cata...e?refid=5021&gclid=CJfiyOqczcICFRSAaQodfpEAbA Electrical tape is not harness tape. No glue, no residue https://www.globalelectricalsupply....dfV29462_a_7c3148_a_7c10018_a_7cEWWH_a2s_5060
The last couple I have done, I have used the self sticking fabric tape. Its much better looking than the shinny plastic stuff. It also has an old look to it.
Man I dig the wire tie idea but I'm prolly gonna go with the wire cloth tape. Thanks for the ideas and pictures Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I picked up heat shield tube from grainger. It is pretty cheap and easy to work with. It stretches so the wires fit in and the you can pull it to tighten up. It makes my engine bay look neater. Not sure if you can tell from the link but it has a cool Diamond pattern in white contrasting the black. I can post a picture of my engine bay when I get home. http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/TECHFLEX-Techflex-TM-1UXY1
The best way to keep the wires from cluttering up your engine bay is to put them somewhere else. Since you're going to totally rewire the truck, why not run all the wires in places that can't be seen? If you create a false firewall behind the dash you can move some of the more messy items like voltage regulator, ballast resistor, starter relay, coil, etc. to the inside along with all the wires. All the wires that go forward of the engine can be run through the frame rails. Be creative about location and you'll find that only a couple of wires need to be exposed for more than a couple of inches at most. Even the spark plug wires can be minimized by creative, low routing and avoiding bright colors. Here's an example. It's my car but I didn't do the wiring and don't know who did, otherwise I'd give credit for doing a very clean job. I've left the access panel off so you can see how the big wire bundles come down from behind the firewall and go forward along the rails. This car has been updated by a previous interim owner since it was wired without much thought as to how the newly added wiring was run. Before it was updated to a breakerless ignition the coil/distributor wiring was minimal and very neat. The alternator used to be on top of the motor as well, making the wiring to it difficult to deal with neatly, but the black wire covering minimizes the visual intrusion. At some point I plan to clean up the distributor area by moving the coil under the dash and move the alternator wires (which I have relocated to a low mount) down along the rails as well.
Looking at the photo you posted I noticed the riser and it doesn't look familiar,,is that a Snow White ? HRP
Yes, it is. The engine sits quite low in my car and this unit allows the use of a fairly large fan without running it into the lower radiator hose. I didn't install it but I have no plans to change it. The car cools exceptionally well...as long as the pump is "burped" on a regular basis to bleed off the accumulation of air in the system.
I have always used the zips risers but I really like the looks of the one you are using,does it use a 6 cylinder water pump? HRP
One more vote for Zips risers. Really nice work on the 57. When you get to this point, you see little stuff like the green ignition wire and get a chance to keep making it better. Black shrink tubing can hide a portion of colored wire and bare terminals with black shrink tubing help connections disappear. I am in full agreement with the input that says "Hide it" and have used aluminum tubing, that can be painted, for wire runs where necessary. As mentioned, shrink tubing works great for running groups of wire as you lay out wire routing. After wires are run and supported, you can shrink the tubing or not.
I've bought that stuff from Sacramento Vintage Ford, it's inexpensive and you cant beat the look on a traditional car.
Not the prettiest engine bay but miles away from where I started. I haven't finished the tube joints and I don't have the heart to remove the throttle/choke 235 remnants yet. I picked up the little white wire hangers off of evilbay.
My F100 has that bastard EFI in it and most of my electrical is hidden still. Ran light wires out the bottom of the firewall and along the frame, motor wires I ran out a hole near the heater fan hole and made a new cover for them. Take plenty of time figuring out where you want wires to end, and you can fin a clean way to get them there. Took me a couple of weeks to wire my truck, just doing a little bit every few days on it, took more time to decide where and how to route it than the actual process, but the end result is worth it
Lay it out with small rope and string, gets the visual and logic down in front. The easiest way is next to the valvecover/s for all engine wires & usually along drivers side frame for everything else with the fuel pump being the odd man out if you have one. Running inside for rearward wires works well 80% of the time. Thru holes and inside frame rails is were you'll likely have a future problem.
Yes, as 31 stated holes are the problem areas. All places mine pass though have rubber grommets and some of the corrugated plastic crap for double rub protection.
You can measure the diameter (close) of the wires to go thru a hole plus whatever insulation mentioned above, pick the grommet with that inside diameter, and drill the hole to fit the outside diameter of the grommet. Grommet packs list these dimensions, including metal thickness, or you can easily measure with a cheap gauge/micrometer.