Projects Only 15 First Hot Rod Build

Very inspiring, especially that you're working without a mentor/guide. Passion and determination can make up for a lot and it looks like you have both. Mad props on you young man.
I would pass on the `maro rear or you'll have mix matched wheel bolt patterns. OK I guess, if you plan to run big & littles and fix-a-flat instead of a spare. Posi, new, and hiway 2.73's are a plus though. That frame looks toast.

 

Here is the process of dropping the body on the frame


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Today's progress the fenders are just for mockup I'm making fiberglass fenders that fit the wheelbase


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Damn How did I miss this. You are kicking butt. Awesome to see a younger guy working on old iron and willing to listen. I will keep watching.

 

You're MAKING fenders? Out of FIBERGLASS????

Why go that route? Can you not move the body forward and just re-locate the wells in the front fender?

 

^^^ I'd try Pat's method before getting all itchy!

 

I'm pretty sure there's a POWERBLOCK TV program where Kevin Tetz, or one of the other guys, goes through the process in detail on a truck.

I'd certainly go that route before trying to make fenders out of ANYTHING.

If you can't move the body forward because of the engine/trans, CUT THERE FIRST. Don't be shy about cutting the floor or firewall to get the body in a better location in relation to the frame. It's a lot easier to fab a new trans tunnel and firewall relief than work a fender.

 

Because of issues with the frame kick up in the back I can't move the body forward and relocate the openings in the rear fenders. I was however already planning on doing the Fiberglass front fenders. They are one thing my dad can help with as he's built several things including boats out of fiberglass. I might still just add the few inches by adding metal on the fenders between the wheel opening and where it meets the body.


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Here's what I'm making body mounts out of


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V8 you have a PM.
Bob

 

After getting the body level on the frame I realized that I mounted the engine and trans quite high. It seems like I'm going to have a huge trans tunnel taking up cabin space. From the pictures do you guys think I should move the engine back and down? Thanks for any advice. I don't really want to redo it but it's better to do it now rather than later.


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Looks like you may need to drop the back down. Need an angle gauge and match the rear pinion angle and trans yolk angles at ride height. I have one you can borrow.
Bob

 

It looks like you are leaving a lot of us old coots for dead in the get-up-and get something done department. Except for the fact I live several thousand miles from you, I'd gladly swing by and offer some extra elbow grease. Maybe someone on here might live a bit closer, collect a few mates, some munchies and call in?
I'm not familiar with the chassis you're using as they're not that common in Australia but I'd lift the engine and trans out and get the frame set up under the car first and then slot the engine in later. Is it possible with these frames to take a section out of it to shorten it and still be legal?

 

Hmmm if it was me I would move it back and down just a little. Looking at the pictures with it with the front fenders mocked up it looks like there is no room for a radiatorI could be wrong. Also with that height how much clearance to the hood?

 

Yes, it appears to have a lot of clearance between the engine and firewall. no shortage of room there.

 

Looks like you may have room between the firewall and engine to shorten the frame and match the original wheelbase. Hope some of us can get by this weekend and meet you and check the project out.
Bob

 

As far as the wheel base goes wasn't one of the benefits of the S10 chassis swap that the frame was easy to shorten because of how it was put together?

This link is to a good thread on the swap that covers shortening the chassis. As much research as you have done you have probably seen it already . .http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/definitive-s-10-frame-swap-vehicle-list.274702/

Keep plugging along. You are doing well, especially for your age.

 

My wheelbase is off about 3.5 inches. I have to do so much work to the fenders that I figure I can just modify the wheel well placement to make it look good.

 

You are making such great progress it would be a shame to make such a big mistake as to alter the body to fit the frame. No matter what you do it will always look awkward.

As I recall S-10 frames have a splice where the front and back halves can be split apart and the length adjusted fairly easily by sliding the front rails into the rear rails and rewelding. This is a MUCH BETTER way, trust me!

Perhaps this video will help:

 

Thanks for the video on shortening an s10 frame after watching it like a dozen times I made the first cut.
The rest is self explanatory.





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Now the welding
I still need to figure out how to fill the gap where the back part of the frame was expanded.


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Good start Sam. Hope that us old timers visit was of help and inspiration on your project. Your enthusiasm and ambition has help get me back at my project; thanks. See you at the club meeting.
Photos of the local rodders checking out Sam' project; and Sam and his parents.

 

As a transplanted Down Easter myownself it warms my heart to see fellow Maine rodders reach out to help a budding enthusiast. This is how it was back in the early days of the Down East Street Rods club - and probably still is. Wicked good folks.

About the gap: Just pie-cut the top and bottom back an inch or so, heat and bend it to close the gap, then weld.

Carry on, Sam!

 

Looking good.Take your time,think it out and do it right the first time.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Since I don't have a way to heat the metal I just did the pie cut like missysdad1 suggested then used some clamps and a hammer to bend it. Welding the underside of the frame was the most difficult part. This evening I rolled the frame back under the body and then lowered it down. I guess my next step should be remounting the engine?


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You are kicking butt. Good job.

 

First of all welcome to the HAMB. Most of us started out with something similar. You've already done some great work so stay at it. My only advice is keep it simple and read everything you can get your hands on. Older hot rod magazines like Rod and Custom, Street Rodder etc. You can get them cheap at swaps and maybe even free if you make friends with some of us older guys. I give all my old magazines to the shop class at the high school I attended. Find someone that doesn't collect them and grab his throwaways.

 

Christmas is a'coming and perhaps Mom and Dad would be willing to help you out on a small oxy/acetylene torch setup. They are not overly expensive and the bottles can be leased. Just don't be tempted by the low-cost imported torches, stick to a name brand like Victor. And for God's sake get somebody who knows what they are doing teach you how to use them safely!!!!!

If it were my project I think my next move would be to level and block the frame and suspension at ride height to get all the components in their correct relative positions. This involves removing the springs and mocking suspension components in place so you'll probably need some help here. I'm sure Bob and the Central Maine Street Rods club members would be willing to show you how this is done.

Once the frame and suspension are mocked up, the next step would be to get the body positioned on the frame where you want it and make some temporary body mounts to hold it there.

Finally, knowing where the suspension components will be and where the body will be, you can jocky the motor around to the spot where it fits best and will operate properly.

You've tapped into a wealth of knowledge and experience with the Central Maine rodders, so don't hesitate to take advantage of it. It's important to all us "old guys" to help the younger generation get a solid start in the hot rod hobby. Good luck!

 

Nice build you have going on here Sam. I commend your efforts greatly this is a big project and you are kicking ass and taking names.

So ill guess that shortening the frame brought the engine back to the firewall? Maybe have more room to go. ?

You already know you'll need to redo your engine mounts, so you might as well just make sure you only have to redo them once. Get your fenders and core support and radiator in there to check for size. Watch the exhaust to frame/steering. The further back towards the rear wheels you get the engine the better the car will behave. Same goes for the lower you can get it the better. Redos suck but its just a little job in the big picture. Ask me how I know redos suck