Almost ready for paint maybe in a week or 2. Body work just about done. Looking to start with a red oxode primer base and maybe a flat clear. Might end up doing a patina paint job as that is the plan but would like to do it in red oxide to start with. I like the darker red color rather than the more orangy color of red oxide. What colors are available and by whom? My plan now is to mix 50/50 red with black primer as was recommended till i get the shade I'm thinking of.
What's on the body now? That will determine what you can put on without problems. If this is the 32 5W you posted in primer a couple months ago, what type primer did you use then?
Remember this thread? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/pic-request-rustoleum-red-oxide.762480/page-3
PPG DP74lf is what I use. Like you said, you can mix it with DP90lf (black) to get the desired color, because DP74lf is more red than brown. As far as I'm concerned,it's the best out there. I have also heard good things about Squeege's red oxide epoxy primer. If you intend for it to be the final finish, you should consider using a flattened paint instead, as it will hold up better. Again, Squeege's has a good flattened paint for this. Primer, even epoxy primer will lose a lot of it's sheen pretty quickly and eventually get chalky. Even if you clear it. I know this from experience, and PPG reps will tell you the same thing. Check out Squeege's web site...and good luck!
I wouldn't chance it myself. Urethane solvents and thinners will penetrate and soften the lacquer primer, and you end up with solvents in a layer of material that dries by evaporation trapped under a layer of material that cures via chemical reaction. You'd have a strong chance of solvent pop where the solvents force their way thru the surface of the finish coat and leave little pock marks. You can get the same problem with the urethane itself by not allowing sufficient flash time between coats, but once you put it over something that's gonna act like a sponge for the solvents then it becomes a lot more likely. For the value of a couple gallons of primer balanced against all the work involved, it just isn't worth the risk. There may be some sort of sealer that could be used between a lacquer primer and urethane topcoat to stop the solvent penetration, but I don't know about that since I don't paint for a living.
Any kind of primer/sealer is not designed to be used as a finish coat. A suede clear topcoat as said above would be better. As far as color goes mix and match until you are happy.
Primer doesn't keep the moisture out either and rust will pop through after a while. No need to ask why I know this first hand. week old primer at Bonneville Same primer about two years later For a number of years I sanded my truck down and reprimered it at least once a year with some shade of purple primer that my buddy came up with at the store he worked at then. Some guys in Waco TX will tell you that I sprayed a fresh coat of black or red oxide primer on it almost every Thursday night before a rod trot to keep it fresh looking in the mid 70's. It took doing that to keep it looking fresh.
rattle can from a foreign paint co. It's water proof and won't allow rust through. Its sold in bulk also but I just used the rattle cans. I know that this is not much help but a body shop supplier (Mattos in the wash DC area) got it for me. That will give you a place to start. I think it is German. Most primers are not water proof and will allow rust if not sealed with real paint. I painted it to take to this show about 10 years ago and as you can tell it has not been babied all these years. The paint was only a few days old here. No sign of surface rust yet. Sorry I can't remember the name and the unused cans are not readily available to me in rehab. No not that kind of rehab.
Dreddybear You have any of that 10 yr old look black paint That IS the look I really want OR maybe I really want 80 yr old looking paint. Yeah That's it !!!!!!
Hey Tommy, hope you get to feeling better! Best of luck with rehab!! We had corresponded a couple years back, and I believe you used Spies Hecker primer. I made note of this because, in my eye, the color dead-nuts 'on' compared to old (1940's) style red oxide.
I have been using the House of Kolor KD-3000 series of primers for some time now and I am very impressed with how well they flow out and the durability. If you are looking for a red then take a look at HOK KD3004.
I guess I got lucky? I stripped my 55 to bare metal, and primed it with urethane primer, and drove it for 14 years and never had any rust show thru. Including a trip to bonneville, a couple trips cross country, and sitting out in the rain for months. Some primers must be better than others
Yep that's the stuff. Spies Hecker It's been on there a long time and it was sprayed onto bare metal and no surface rust coming through.
Most modern day catalyzed primers will protect the metal for years without a topcoat. Gone are the days of porous lacquer primers but it seems that the beliefs about "primer" being porous still live on. The 40 in my avatar was primered in 2007 and sat outside under a cheap car cover for all that time with virtually no rust through. There are a couple of spots on it but those were where the PO used lacquer primer on it.
Both of these were sprayed with Dupli-Color rattle can red oxide filler primer. The Chevy (my avatar) in 2004 and the Pontiac in 2009. Neither has been resprayed and neither has any rust coming through. I coat each with Gibbs lubricant once a year.
I noticed one thing common to the guys who haven't had trouble running primer for a length of time. They all live in dry areas with little rain and no snow. Still if you want to run red Oxide you can do just like I did for years and scuff it down and spray on another coat every once in a while and go again. Just minutes after finishing a 2500 mile road trip from Toppenish, Wa to McGregor Tx in 1981 when Texas set a record for consecutive days over 100 degrees. Fresh red oxide the day before we left WA.
So, is this thread number 2 on the same subject ? Or have I lost count ? I know I replied to one of your threads on red oxide primer
Just a guess that 50/50 red and black primers will be darker than you want. I bet 25% black will be mud brown.
You might consider using a single stage urethane red oxide mixing tint. You can add the flattening paste to achieve your results