tractor paint pics??

I know I am going to get crucified for this post but does anyone have any pictures of cars sprayed with tractor paint??

 

I painted my engine with tractor paint (no pic). My buddy pained his Cadillacs frame with tractor paint.

I don't know why it wouldn't work on a complete car.

 

Not a car, but an old Shasta trailer painted with tractor paint........

 

are you talking color or the paint? The paint that's tractor paint sold at stores often is oil based, takes forever to dry, still moist after a few days then fades quickly. Called Van sickel or van suckel

 

painted a old 8 or 9n ford tractor last fall ....the owner bought some catalized polyuerathane or something ....went on decent ....i did like the color...sorta warm gray....something different than the normal john deere green and yellow tractors i paint...

 

That trailer is cool as hell.

 

I have John Deere Blitz Black on my roadster. Not very chip resistant. If I was doing it again I would use one of the "Hot Rod" black paints that are available.

 

John Deere blitz black. looked great when first sprayed but once it got into the sun it became alittle streaky. but for 40 bucks u cant beat it.

 

ill get pic 2morrow of my 40 chevy john deere green and yellow

 

If you put super wet look hardner in every coat tractor paint will shine forever. The IH brand of farmall red is very good paint. OldWolf

 

i have the blitz black on my 34 and i havent had any problems with it

 

Oh boy, here we go...Implement or fleet paint bought at Tractor Supply is just old style enamel, and as pointed out it takes forever to dry, and oxidizes quickly compared to urethanes. It also requires a very practiced hand with a paint gun, unless you like hanging curtains.

It is cheap however, and if you're painting a beater and just don't care about ever doing the job right (becaue you CANNOT refinish over it without completely stipping it), then it's fine and will be servicable. The catalysit will NOT make it any more resistant to fade, but it does make it lay down better and cure a little quicker. If you're on a budget, then 40 bucks for a gallon of tractor enamel, hardener and reducer sounds WAY better than approximately $1,000 for automotive urethane BC/CC.

Don't listen to me though, becaue I just used the wrong catalyst in a batch of 2K primer and had to buy another gallon. It'd have been way easier to use tractor paint.

Now, I'm off to make some popcorn...

 

My truck is painted with John Deere semi gloss black (not blitz black) with flattener added. Has been on the truck for 4 years with no problems.
Later,
Dick

 

The first paint job I did back in the 60s was tractor paint on a 53 Ford pickup.Looked good when it was first done,bright shiney red.In a month it started fading,in 6 months it was pink.The paint store guy told me that farm paint does not have the right formula to shine and stay that way.I would never waste my time spraying it again.You get what you pay for.

 

hahaha

 

I shot the door to my old model A truck cab with Rustoleum Satin Black paint which is basically the same thing. The door was real rough so after I soaked it in my electrolysis tank to remove the rust, I patched it up and just shot it with what I had in the garage, just to see what it would look like. Turned out great! Well, great for what it is...

For a no frills, low buck ride it works perfect and looks surprisingly good. Tractor paint is just an enamel and if you buy the hardener at Tractor supply or ACE or whatever, it dries in about an hour and is tough as nails. The gloss paints wet sand and buff out well and will last if you keep it waxed. The flats and satins don't hold up as well but you can keep them looking nice with Pledge or Old English furniture polish. I just poured a little less than a cap full of hardener directly in the gun and stirred it up real good.

Here's the link to the hardener: http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp...&langId=-1&storeId=10551&ddkey=http:ClickInfo

You can use it with just about any enamel paint they sell at the hardware store. Again, I used the Rustoleum. The pic's show some spots because my camera was out in the rain but the door has a smooth sheen to it in person.

 

I have seen that John Deere Blitz Black and that is really nice .

How was that paint to use ? Any problems ?

 

i have been thinking of flat black for my 55 fairlane, black bottom ant top and gloss white for the hood/trunk, i have been looking for a textured flat black, kinda a rock gard look but not rock gard.

 

The Rustoleum Satin Black does this when you spray it. It has a light "orange peel" texture which hides minor imperfections, which is why I used it.

 

If you use hardener and are the type who will keep a coat of wax on a $250 paint job.......yet not expect it to look perfect.......then you'll probably like tractor paint

 

I would like to know more about your electrolosis tank...how large is it?

 

I used to have a picture of a 39 chevy painted with John Deere Yellow. It look pretty damn good in a strange way.

Don't know if I would ever choose to use that kind of paint, but it looked okay from a distance.

 

What are the basic differences between alkid and synthetic enamels?

 

I used a 4x8 sheet of plywood cut down to 4x6 which leaves a 4x2 section for the end wall. Another sheet cut down to 4x6 and then cut in half gives you the other walls. So basically it's 4x6x2. I wrapped a band of 2x4's around the top and bottom for strength and screwed it all together with deck screw's. Some rebar, Arm & Hammer washing soda and a charger on 10 amps for a couple of days does the trick. I'm doing the whole cab (cut down) this way. This is the door in the photo's above when it was in the tank.

Don't want to high jack the thread but I thought this would be OK considering it's related to what we're talking about...PM me if you have any questions.

-Ron

 

did you use primer? if so what kind? i have used the brush on tractor paint. i like it.

 

I'm that kind of guy...

Seriously, it just depends on what project you want to paint with tractor paint. I wouldn't use it on a "nice car" but for a cheap ride it works. I have a couple of shiny cars that are nice daily drivers and I just wanted to build a clean, straight, but cheap ride. This old cab was rough so this was the perfect candidate for a cheap spray job. I still prepped it good and did all the body work right, just the paint is a low buck approach. I'll post a thread on how it turned out it a couple of weeks.

 

I de-rusted (is that a word?) it in my electrolysis tank, washed it down good with a pressure washer, welded in my patch panels, scuffed it with 80 grit paper, applied the body filler, sanded that down, sprayed a high build primer to cover the sanding scratches, then shot the Rustoleum with the hardener. Paint, (even cheap paint) is only as good as the prep.

 

thanks guys some great tips as always!!

 

My 31 chevy with John Deere Blitz Black rattle can.